Beam thru bolt

punchdrunk monkey

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I just picked up my new beam suspension and the guy selling it said to use 1/2" all thread rod from Home Depot for the thru bolt. This is a 6" wider beam with 4" longer arms. Has anybody tried using All Thread Rod? Does the rod see a load or is it just holding the arms in?
 

TreyP

"F" you Bill
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There is huge amounts of stress thru the bolt. All thread is fine for a dune hopper.:eek: Not a race car.
 

Martin

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It may work but chromoly through rods are the norm.
 

Giant Geoff

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Take 4-4” long ½’ bolts cut off the hex head off, and with 2 sticks of ¾”x.120 tubing. Mock up the length weld the bolts at each end of the tubing and there you go.
 

partybarge_pilot

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Put st least 2 washers on each end with a little grease between them and double nut the ends with a top lock outer.
 

Zac Reish

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Using all thread will work under light use. You are better off going to a place that has grade 8 all thread vs home depot crap unless they sell the desired length in grade 8.
The problem with all thread is that the thread in themselves are shear points and like any bolt it will wear out and break over time. I currently use grade 8 all thread and I am noticing that they are stretching slightly after heavy use. From personal experiance, and if I had to do it again I would spend the extra money on the heavy duty chromoly through rods and not have to worry about replacing it for a long time. I've heard of heavy duty beam classes using 3/4" billet steel and drilling out there front arms for the through bolt. Someone post up some picks of their set up.
 

Dezertpilot

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I just picked up my new beam suspension and the guy selling it said to use 1/2" all thread rod from Home Depot for the thru bolt. This is a 6" wider beam with 4" longer arms. Has anybody tried using All Thread Rod? Does the rod see a load or is it just holding the arms in?
What the H E double hockey sticks was that guy talking about?!:eek:
 

5racer

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Using all thread will work under light use. You are better off going to a place that has grade 8 all thread vs home depot crap unless they sell the desired length in grade 8.
The problem with all thread is that the thread in themselves are shear points and like any bolt it will wear out and break over time. I currently use grade 8 all thread and I am noticing that they are stretching slightly after heavy use. From personal experiance, and if I had to do it again I would spend the extra money on the heavy duty chromoly through rods and not have to worry about replacing it for a long time. I've heard of heavy duty beam classes using 3/4" billet steel and drilling out there front arms for the through bolt. Someone post up some picks of their set up.


this should stir the pot lol
 

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PT9Baja

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Something I have been doing is weld the nut on 1 end solid and slide it in and out from that side. Only one nut per rod to loosen. The shoulder on the bushing wears and the rod gets some play and starts working and elongating. I like having the shoulder but my next set up will have a washer between the shoulder and beam tube end and 2 washers between the nut and arm , and be a chrome molly rod threaded on one end welded on the other with plenty of grease. How about a bushing with no shoulder and just washers??
 

punchdrunk monkey

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What the H E double hockey sticks was that guy talking about?!:eek:
exactly what I was thinking. That's why I asked the question. I have no idea what good through bolts cost, but it can't be enough to cut a corner and by all-thread.

I'll go to Mirage and pick up the right bolt.
 

Wendell #527

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Something I have been doing is weld the nut on 1 end solid and slide it in and out from that side. Only one nut per rod to loosen. The shoulder on the bushing wears and the rod gets some play and starts working and elongating. I like having the shoulder but my next set up will have a washer between the shoulder and beam tube end and 2 washers between the nut and arm , and be a chrome molly rod threaded on one end welded on the other with plenty of grease. How about a bushing with no shoulder and just washers??
I used to have them loosen up, but once I got my bushings 100% parallel, they stopped working loose. I made a tool--basically put a 1.5" and 1.75" tube that was 5' long over the reaming tool so it reams it from the opposite side. This keeps the hole parallel so the arms don't try to walk over every bump. Just a thought. It worked for me.
 

Demp

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