Bed cages

CanyonMan

Well-Known Member
I am looking for information on building a bed cage for my 97 GMC 1500 4x4. Can anybody give me some hints as to how to build it for glass bedsides. Also, what is the best kind of tubing? Does it have to be chromoly or mild steel? Is tig the best to weld it up with or can I get away with a good Mig welder? Anybody have pics I can use for reference? Thanks!!

Lyrch
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
Are you gonna build it yourself? Tig looks nicer, but mig is just as good. Mild steel is about 4-5 times less in price than chromo which usually is dont waste the cash unless your an really good fabricator or building a full race truck. One wrong bend can cost you as much as $50 bucks ouch. I use 1 1/2 mild 120 wall, if you want a little better use seemless. But why waste so much money on something you will redo over and over if its your first time. I would use better tubing as you get better at fabricating. As for pictures check websites and go to some races if you can and take lots of shots to give you some ideas.

midnight landscaper working overtime and I'm full throttle I'm full throttle tonight
 

CanyonMan

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info. Yes I will be building it myself and I haven't welded seriously in almost 6 years so I'm gonna have some gorilla beads to start. I just wasn't sure if the bedcage got enough abuse to justify a chromoly tube cage for a weekend racer.

Lyrch
 

cleartoy

Well-Known Member
Mild steel is fine. For shock mounts and main structure, use 1.5"x.120.

For mounting the glass, use 1".

94 Toyota stdcab 2x4
99 Yamaha YZ250

Got Sand??
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
anyone using 3/4 for bedside supports? I am redoing mine this week and used3/4 last time, but didnt bend it or make a good design because I had no time, wanted to get it drivable for work and for the d-day race. needless to say glamis nov. 1-3 took them right off after about a half hour of prerunning. I only have a 1 1/2 die for my bender and borrowed a conduit bender from a friend that will bend 3/4, but not sure if it will do 1 inch. any advice!!!!!!!!!!

midnight landscaper working overtime and I'm full throttle I'm full throttle tonight
 

havahockey

Flipper
My brother made my bedside supports out of 1" x .120 mild steel and they are holding up great. He made them with no bends and came out really good. PM me if you would like some pictures.

Race-Dezert Anonymous - Step #1:
"Hello, my name is Jason. And I'm a Race-Dezertaholic."
 

punkassslacker

Well-Known Member
Right now on my truck I'm using 1" .120 wall DOM. I would recommend DOM it seems to be a little stonger.

A word of wisdom..."Expectations are premeditated disappointments"
 

ACID_RAIN28

Well-Known Member
i made a set of side mounts for this kid that had a nissan. BEAT the truck, broke the frame twice, and they still held. four pieces, six frame mounting points all 1" .095 DOM. left plent of room in the back and it looked more like a TT mounting job than a JUNGLE GYM like most these days.

Truth is if you take your time and design it right you could make it out of conduit, but these days everyone is in too much of a hurry, and time is money..... money that no one has.

Anyone can escape into sleep, we are all geniuses when we dream.
 

CanyonMan

Well-Known Member
Anybody have a good way of pulling the outer bed sides to replace with glass? I saw a tool on the tv show Trucks! that was real trick but can't remember where it was from.

Lyrch
 

Prater

Well-Known Member
Its called a spot weld remover, basically its a special drill bit. You can get it at any auto parts store.


-Prater
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
So I am going to go get the tubing tommorow for my bedside mounts 1" 120wall dom. Should I use some 1 1/4 and make sleeves so It is easier to remove and work around? Will the sleeves make it weaker or stonger or about the same strength. It was the first few inches off my bedcage where my mounts bent and broke with the 3/4 mild steel, where the sleeving would be if I did sleeves. So it seems thats where the most stress is put and I didnt want to make it any weaker by adding sleeves but if it makes it stronger I will add them.
thanks

midnight landscaper working overtime and I'm full throttle I'm full throttle tonight
 

ACID_RAIN28

Well-Known Member
You can get away with the sleeves, it is a proven method. Just make sure that you brace the the bed sides from all the possible forces acting on it. ie foward,up down, etc.

if you are not comfortable with the sleeves welded straight to the frame add a 1/8X2X2" plate before attactching the piece of 1/1/4. make the sleeves about 3-4" long. the plates can be bigge if you want, what ever you are okay with. they don't have to be an alloy either, especially if you are attatching it to some japanese steel.

plus if you sleeve it when you bend the mounts you don't have to cut them, just replace the tube bent, no need to reweld on the frame.

Anyone can escape into sleep, we are all geniuses when we dream.
 

elcaprerunner

Well-Known Member
Okay I have a question for everyone. I did not want to atart a new thread since this is pretty much the same subject. I am planning on getting a Jeep Cherokee to prerun out. First let me explain why: well in the first place it is just plain different for a prerunner, and from what I have seen they are the cheapest thing to do. My friend had an '86 Ranger that he took the bed cage out of and gave to me. The bedcage was built for a Deaver Prerunner Pack designed to use 12" or 14" stroke shocks (depending on shock brand) and get 16" of travel out of it with the springs and shocks and everything. My question is will the bedcage out of the Ranger work with Jeep Cherokee STOCK framerails? Or if not, would it work if I put in crossmembers in between the framerails where the cage would usually connect on a Ranger in case the Jeep framerails are wider? Also, if I decided to put in a 62" Deaver or National Race Pack, would I still be able to use this bedcage, or would I need a taller one to fit the longer stroke shocks that will be needed for the race pack? Because the bedcage is not very tall, at least not as tall as the ones I usually see that are made for race packs? Another thing, if the bedcage fits with the framerails, how difficult would it be to cut through the floor of the back of the Jeep to install this cage, what kinds of things would I run into?

Alright, here are a couple more for ya about the front suspension, this one is about the front though. I know the JeepSpeeds are limited to 10" of travel in the front, but this is for a prerunner so I will not be limiting it. As far as I know for front suspension they are just running Eibach coil springs and long travel shocks, which is what I will be doing at least at the beginning, if I do not limit the travel (as much as the race ones) how much clean wheel travel is possible out of the front? Also will there be extra modifications needed, as far as limit straps, bumpstops, steering stabilizers, and whatever else I could possibly ever need for long travel front suspension? Eventually I will want to coilover the front. First of all, would this be possible if the stock coilbuckets and shockmounts are cut off and replaced with hoops? Would it be possible to get more CLEAN working travel with coilovers than coilsprings? Also, could this be done (hoops) without taking out the inside fender liners and not be in the way of the motor or transmission? One last question for everyone, what is the best shop to do this? I am thinking T&J's in Anahiem is the best because Jeeps are mainly what they do (especially JeepSpeeds), but does anyone have any suggestions on more qualified shop for a Jeep Cherokee prerunner?

I know this is alot of questions about Jeeps and they are not a very popular prerunner to do, so I am sure not alot of poeple on here have extensive knoledge on them, so thank you advance for any, any input at all on this subject, especially since I am keeping it in this thread.

DIRT'S FOR RACING, PRERUNNERS ARE FOR GETTING THERE!

H.O.R.E.
Hemet Off-Road Enthusiests
 

Kritter

Krittro Campbell
Copy a good jeepspeed...they are proven. Some of the jeep speeds are faster then most longtravel prerunners. I would not run 62s on it either. Are you building a 2wd or 4wd?

Kris
"Buy American before it's too late..."
 

JrSyko

Jerry Maguire
Aren't jeeps monobody and thus have no frame rails? How many different prerunners are you planning on getting elcap?!

See ya in the dirt!
 

elcaprerunner

Well-Known Member
Sorry, I forgot to say. I am definately going with 4WD, since that and 2WD still use a straight axle it should be no difference?? Plus with 4WD I will be able to clime alot of stuff. And I plan on getting the 4.0 straight 6, I have ridden in them and those things haul ass, but I actually haven't bought the truck yet, I am still looking. And I don't know if I am getting a 2-door or 4-door either, it just depends on what I find that I like and I will go with that. One more question though , in the late '80's models (85, 86, 87, 88, 89) did they make them with the 4.0, or did tey not have that motor out yet?

DIRT'S FOR RACING, PRERUNNERS ARE FOR GETTING THERE!

H.O.R.E.
Hemet Off-Road Enthusiests
 

elcaprerunner

Well-Known Member
Well I don't have any trucks yet, accept for my Elco, which will remain my daily driver. But over the loast month or so I have been looking at Rangers and S10's and Toyota's and Jeeps, and I figured out for my budget, there is no cheap way to do any of those trucks accept for a Jeep Cherokee. They are perfect for me since I only have about $1500 to buy the whole truck with, and those Cherokees get around that price when they get older and are still in good condition for the most part, it may need body work or something, who cares if it's a prerunner? Plus I go to the races and see JeepSpeeds totally mashing through the dezert with basically stock suspension. So why not, to get a fully done front suspension (for Jeeps) and at least something descent in the rear would probably be cheaper than my buddy paid for just his Total Chaos kit, without installation. Plus for the reason it is just friggin' different.

That is another thing I wanted to know if Jeeps are unibody.but with the suspension they have in front and rear I would not think so, I also don't think they could be a safe race car without a place to base the roll cage off of. But I could be wrong??

DIRT'S FOR RACING, PRERUNNERS ARE FOR GETTING THERE!

H.O.R.E.
Hemet Off-Road Enthusiests
 

JrSyko

Jerry Maguire
I used to have an 89 with the 4.0 I6. GREAT car and wonderful motor. Had a 140,000 miles on it when I sold it and it still ran STRONG and all I ever did was change the oil.

See ya in the dirt!
 

vwguy

Well-Known Member
elca your wrong cherokee's dont have framerails or frames they are unibody my brothers friends have like 4 total ive seen them all

how ironic is it that most people slow down for speed bumps yet almost all of us here im sure pin it
 
Top