Belt Replacement Tool?

JrSyko

Jerry Maguire
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Quick question fellas - is the tool required to change a belt in a Polaris Turbo the same as the tool for the 1000? I'm trying to buy one and I've called a few dealerships and I've had three different dealerships tell me something different.
 

JoeyD23

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Quick question fellas - is the tool required to change a belt in a Polaris Turbo the same as the tool for the 1000? I'm trying to buy one and I've called a few dealerships and I've had three different dealerships tell me something different.

No. turbo uses a threaded L shaped tool that comes in your tool kit that threads into the secondary to split the sheave. The 1000 uses the notched end of the spanner wrench tool that also comes with the vehicle to pry open the sliders on the sheave.
 

ISRengine

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Talking aboult belt what is frequence of replacement of the belt when those UTV are racing hard in baja?

I ask the question because in Quebec with NASA rally sport it was the start of a new class in rally the UTV, there was 3 UTV for the first try out a Maverick, a Wildcat 1000 turbo and a RZR 1000xp turbo, those was driven by good driver and their machine was already tested in some rally-cross this summer

The 3 have scrap belt after 80km ?? I dont think driver at Baja1000 change belt every 60miles !! what can explain that? cold temperature? there was not much dust since there was snow, too much hp?
 

JoeyD23

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Talking aboult belt what is frequence of replacement of the belt when those UTV are racing hard in baja?

I ask the question because in Quebec with NASA rally sport it was the start of a new class in rally the UTV, there was 3 UTV for the first try out a Maverick, a Wildcat 1000 turbo and a RZR 1000xp turbo, those was driven by good driver and their machine was already tested in some rally-cross this summer

The 3 have scrap belt after 80km ?? I dont think driver at Baja1000 change belt every 60miles !! what can explain that? cold temperature? there was not much dust since there was snow, too much hp?

The belts usually will go much further than 60 miles lol BUT it all depends on the driver and of course the other variables that can strain the CVT system. Larger / Heavier wheel and tire combo can play a huge role in stressing the belt system. So can terrain such as sand where the loads on the CVT are much higher.

Baja / Desert racers have got most of the belt issues worked out aside from the occasional clutching gremlin. They have found ways of better circulating the air-flow to reduce belt temps and also have learned how to "peddle" the machines to not totally burn the belts up.

Belt break in is also important and most of the top UTV teams will actually take time in testing to break in a dozen or so belts. They also wash them with warm water and dish soap prior to ever installing for break-in to wash off all the residue that contributes to slipping (heating up) the belt.

In my current play RZR I have installed a "BLOW HOLE" by MTNTK Performance. Its an inline fan that EJECTS (not forces in) the hot air from the CVT.
 

harleys dad

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I just bought a 17 xp4 1000, I have 7 Honda pilots that do not run belt guards and the belts last a very long time, does anyone run with out the belt enclosed in that cover? Seams to me the belt would stay much cooler but I want your thought Joey as I only have had this a couple weeks and dont have 10 miles on it yet. I know very little about these cars Thank you
 
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Isn't there forced air directed into the belt drive? :confused:
 

NIKAL

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I just bought a 17 xp4 1000, I have 7 Honda pilots that do not run belt guards and the belts last a very long time, does anyone run with out the belt enclosed in that cover? Seams to me the belt would stay much cooler but I want your thought Joey as I only have had this a couple weeks and dont have 10 miles on it yet. I know very little about these cars Thank you

Dave,
Its best to leave the cover on. Yes you will get cooler belt temps without the cover, and some sand dunes guys do take the cover off, but its really hard on the Primary (Smaller front pulley) and Secondary (Larger rear pulley) clutches. The debris getting in them wears them out faster, and can tear the belts up if stuff gets in there. Plus the clutch and belts don't like water, so keeping the whole system sealed and allowing the ducting to direct the air to the places Polaris feels its most necessary is best. Another big part of the clutching is getting the weights in the Primary clutch right so it shifts at the perfect RPM. If you stick with the stock sized tires, the stock clutching is fine, it can be improved, but is fine. If you plan on adding a bunch of accessories that will add weight, plan on always running 4 adults in the car or change to a bigger tire, then you might want to consider looking at re-clutching as their is improvement to be made.

I by no means am an expert or truly understand the clutching on these things. But there are several shops who are. I deal with Alba Racing, who are now in the old Fiber-Tech building in Santee. They are the ones who build and tune Wayne Matlocks cars, so they know what they are doing. They have chassis dyno's and all. But there are also guys like Hunterworks who's a dealer for Dalton clutches, and he sells a ton of them. He can work with you over the phone and tell you what you need, and explain how to set up and tune your own clutches. The Dalton kits are adjustable, without having to pull the flyweights, so many like their design. Hunterworks is also a Gates Belt dealer, and while the Gates belts are much cheaper then Polaris and some swear by them. I'm a firm believer of running the factory belts. I'm 99% sure most if not all of the Polaris racers run the stock Polaris belts too.

Here is Alba's link. The main guy is Nate, and he is great to deal with.
Team Alba Racing - ATV Racing Parts & UTV Performance Parts

Hunterworks link.
Polaris RZR XP 1000 900, Polaris Ranger 800 - Dalton Polaris Clutch Kits
BTW I have done several 600 mile Baja play trips with my RZR and have never had a belt failure. I'm not running race speed, and learned how to drive these things, but belt temps have never been a problem for me. Welcome to the dark side!
 
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harleys dad

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Dave,
Its best to leave the cover on. Yes you will get cooler belt temps without the cover, and some sand dunes guys do take the cover off, but its really hard on the Primary (Smaller front pulley) and Secondary (Larger rear pulley) clutches. The debris getting in them wears them out faster, and can tear the belts up if stuff gets in there. Plus the clutch and belts don't like water, so keeping the whole system sealed and allowing the ducting to direct the air to the places Polaris feels its most necessary is best. Another big part of the clutching is getting the weights in the Primary clutch right so it shifts at the perfect RPM. If you stick with the stock sized tires, the stock clutching is fine, it can be improved, but is fine. If you plan on adding a bunch of accessories that will add weight, plan on always running 4 adults in the car or change to a bigger tire, then you might want to consider looking at re-clutching as their is improvement to be made.

I by no means am an expert or truly understand the clutching on these things. But there are several shops who are. I deal with Alba Racing, who are now in the old Fiber-Tech building in Santee. They are the ones who build and tune Wayne Matlocks cars, so they know what they are doing. They have chassis dyno's and all. But there are also guys like Hunterworks who's a dealer for Dalton clutches, and he sells a ton of them. He can work with you over the phone and tell you what you need, and explain how to set up and tune your own clutches. The Dalton kits are adjustable, without having to pull the flyweights, so many like their design. Hunterworks is also a Gates Belt dealer, and while the Gates belts are much cheaper then Polaris and some swear by them. I'm a firm believer of running the factory belts. I'm 99% sure most if not all of the Polaris racers run the stock Polaris belts too.

Here is Alba's link. The main guy is Nate, and he is great to deal with.
Team Alba Racing - ATV Racing Parts & UTV Performance Parts

Hunterworks link.
Polaris RZR XP 1000 900, Polaris Ranger 800 - Dalton Polaris Clutch Kits
BTW I have done several 600 mile Baja play trips with my RZR and have never had a belt failure. I'm not running race speed, and learned how to drive these things, but belt temps have never been a problem for me. Welcome to the dark side!
Thank you for the info Todd, I bought a trinity spring and weight kit and also a million dollar bolt (almost) because I heir many are breaking the primary clutch bolt so I have it on order I have 32 10.5 15 ITP ultra cross tires for it but really am considering putting super digger 3s on it. The kit claims I can run 34-35in??? tires which seams ridicules on one of these. Superdiggers I will try them. The belt is warrantied for 1 year they state. Well see, getting a cage put on it now, 1 thing at a time. Thanks again for the info Todd, I can use all the info I can get.
 

biggjim

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Theres not a ton of parts for the 17 model yet...keep your eye on Sparks racing for a kit....Best in the business. That's who tunes our clutches and we have not had a belt failure all BITD season. Also....he right dont run without the cover...
 
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