Bent Bronco's 1979 Go-Fast-ish build.

BentBronco

Member
I've been lurking on here for years, I guess it's time to share my stuff.


I got the go-fast bug from my Father. Growing up in the back seat of his Bronco has me slightly attached to the 78/79's. I followed his lead when I was 16 and bought a 79' of my own. Back then a "prerunner" style build was a little out of my league. I ended up with a run of the mill mud truck, 39's a 429ci and some half ton axles. After a grenaded 9" I forked out the cash for some 2003 Superduty 1-Ton axles. I'm lucky enough to have Jim Cole of Cage Offroad/Bloody Knuckle Garage as a close family friend, so I got a screaming deal on some radius arms/coils/coil buckets/dual shock hoops. Then I swapped a twin-stick Np205 in place of the chain drive Np203, and did a Sky shackle flip in the rear with a custom shock hoop. I ran it like this for about 6 months, made a few trips to the dunes and TSF and it performed awesome! On the last day before I shipped out for boot camp I threw a rod through the pan.


How I got it:











The 1-Ton swap





























I spent a few years overseas saving up for a new motor, and put this together when I got back.


The new 545ci Stroker specs:

-Lunati Voodoo forged 4340 crankshaft (4.5 stroke)
-Lunati Voodoo forged 4340 H-beam connecting rods with ARP 2000 bolts
-Diamond Racing forged pistons (.030 bore w/Cobra Jet valve reliefs)
-Diamond Racing file fit plasma moly rings
-King HP/XP bearings
-Ford Super Cobra Jet aluminum heads w/ port job and bowl blending
-Lunati roller rockers
-Lunati solid flat tappet cam/lifters (245/250 @.050/.616/.623 lift)
-High Flow Dynamics Street/Strip oil pump
-Weiand Stealth SCJ intake
-L&L 3/4 length headers
-Lunati 9-key billet timing set
-Full MSD igntion (pro-billet dizzy/6AL/coil/wires)
-11:1 compression
-1000CFM Holley HP Built by C&J Engineering


I also added Autofab bulged quarters and front fenders, 40x13.5 MTR's, and 17" Walker Evans beadlocks.


















And it has stayed somewhat the same for the last year or so, with minor flaws getting fixed here and there.


Recently I was able to buy my Dad's 79 Bronco, the one I grew up working on. And since I have it as a dedicated 4x4, I can afford to make this one more of a dedicated go-fast style build.














For those that follow me on Instagram (Bent_Bronco) you know I've changed my mind 5-6 times on going I-Beams or TTB, I've finally come full circle back to TTB. I'm working on getting a cross-member out of a donor rig, my neighbor has an 86' I may be able to sacrifice for the greater good...If I spend money on TTB I can’t change my mind right? haha.


I’ve been shopping around a little bit, it looks like Solo has a pretty good package deal on beams/shafts, I’m looking at going 4.5” wider with plate work and their radius arms. But I’m open to other companies too, Giant has some cool stuff close to the same price point. I know all the big-name guys are equal in quality so there isn’t really a “wrong choice”.


There will be a couple things to decide on, like steering. The steering box is mounted on the outboard side of the frame. Thus, I’m guessing the pitman arm won’t line up properly in relation to the Beam/RA pivots. So I’m thinking it will require Dual Swing setup. But that will be decided when I get a little further I suppose. I’ve been trying to read up, since this is a new subject for me and I don’t go into big projects blind when avoidable. So, any input is appreciated, I’m one of probably 5-6 prerunners within 200 miles out here so I’m 100% reliant on the interwebz for experience. I’ve gotten shamed by some of the locals for tossing around the idea of going from 1-tons to TTB


As far as coilovers, from what I’ve read the consensus is that a single coilover is adequate up front. Would the cost of 3.0 C/O’s be worth it? I know coil’s are much more expensive for them compared to 2.5’s. Or would I be better off with a set of 2.5 C/O’s and adding Bypasses or putting the money somewhere else (rear Bypasses/bumps etc.).
 

pwerwagn

Well-Known Member
That’s a nice looking bronco!

Since you called it a “go-fast-ish” build, I’d personally just run 2.5’s for now. Easier to package. If you find you need more shock later, invest in some bypasses.

The walkers/40’s look awesome!

Keep up the progress pics!
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
now have a 78 and 79 just not man enough to build one yet. Maybe I should buy your frame and running gear and provide you a nice straight frame to start your ttb build with :) .
 

BentBronco

Member
That’s a nice looking bronco!

Since you called it a “go-fast-ish” build, I’d personally just run 2.5’s for now. Easier to package. If you find you need more shock later, invest in some bypasses.

The walkers/40’s look awesome!

Keep up the progress pics!
Not a ton of hardcore prerunning to do out in Idaho, so I could probably get by with 2.5's for the time being. But if my tax return looks good who knows...

Thank you. I love the combo, If they were 8x6.5 not 8x170mm I would probably go 8-lug outers on the TTB and run them. I think they'll make their way under my Dads old Bronco when I swap the 1-tons under it.

now have a 78 and 79 just not man enough to build one yet. Maybe I should buy your frame and running gear and provide you a nice straight frame to start your ttb build with :) .
Haha, After the first cut it gets easier!

There is a sweet 79' Bronco chassis for sale on here right now! Already caged with bulged quarters etc....
 

BentBronco

Member
Minor update...


Tore the engine/front suspension out. Got a donor Bronco and took the beams/crossmember out. Also grabbed a D50 with the bolt in style shaft from Shawn T on here (thanks again! Was nice meeting you). I've been talking with Cho, and am going to be running his new fully-fabbed 4.5" beams. Also got some RCV shafts from Cho. Sounds like it may be a little while before the beams are ready, so I plan on starting in on the Cage in the meantime.


The donor crossmember is much wider than the 78/79 frame, since the 78/79's are boxed in that section. So I narrowed up the crossmember. Looks like the holes in the boxed section of the frame will end up right where the crossmember meets up to it, so I plan on plating the frame so get as much surface area to weld to as possible. I picked up some AutoFab pivot mounts, and engine mounts while I had it all apart. I'll have to modify the engine mounts a bit when the time comes, the new crossmember takes up a bit of their real estate.


While I was cleaning up the frame, I found a ton of cracks where the steering box mounts to the frame. So, I stop-drilled/ground/welded the cracks up. Then added some 3/16" plate to stiffen the frame up a bit. Hydraulic assist steering should take a lot of the load off the steering box down the road anyways.


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Dezertpilot

Well-Known Member
Looking good! Where abouts in Idaho again?
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
one other thing, when my New bypass shox showed up, i put them in the living room ,like art , i would just stare at em, am i the only one??
 

BentBronco

Member
Looking good! Where abouts in Idaho again?
Stationed out in Mountain Home, pretty close to Boise

one other thing, when my New bypass shox showed up, i put them in the living room ,like art , i would just stare at em, am i the only one??
Haha i've had my fair share of living room art as well!


Got a little further into the TTB build during quarantine. Got the crossmember in its permanent home and added some ears to give it a bit more weld surface. Notched the frame and started cycling the suspension, this is where the issues started. From ride height I was only cycling 5.5'' bump travel when I should be pushing 9"+ even with a pretty serious notch. Turns out the later frames have more of a kick in the frame allowing them more bump travel with lower ride height.

this left me with 3 options. option 1: Pie cut the frame and kick it up a few inches. This would mean relocating Engine/Trans/T-case/Core support/Steering etc. Option 2: build drop brackets for the TTB. This leaves me with a taller ride height and more stress on the crossmember, which is a common spot for cracks already. And lastly, Option 3: Body swap onto a later chassis. This is a bit of fab to make new body mounts up front, but gives me a clean sandblasted chassis to start with/off the shelf steering options instead of designing a dual swing steering setup from scratch.

Option 3 was the obvious choice for me, so I reached out to my friend Rob who owns a tow company in town. He has a buddy Mario who he had given a 93 bronco years ago as a donor rig. He still had it and was planning on scrapping it next week, so he gave it to me for free. Can't beat that! Sometimes things just work out. So I got it torn down and cut/pounded 8,000 rivets out of the damn thing getting all the suspension hangers etc knocked off it, and its getting blasted this weekend. Plan is to box the frame and coat it in Steelit and start throwing all the suspension/drivetrain in it and do the clean install it deserves then throw the body on and start the tube work.












 

Dezertpilot

Well-Known Member
Gonna be killer when done! Perfect time to work on this while quarantined.
 
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