Best Brake Calipers and pads for the Money, Give us your thoughts


Active Member
Well the greatest is probably an a compound. One thing any system is going to need is line pressure. Going to a compound like a “a” will compensate for a low application psi but it will also wear fast. Possibly in a few hundred miles or less. I have found that the “e”compound from willwood has great wear characteristics and will last over a 1000 miles in race conditions. But it grabs far less then a stickier compounds.

I use to used that dual master cnc pedal assembly. The results were exactly like you say. It would not stop well. I can see how you would not be able to hold it back in your situation. To fix this I ditched the cnc master cylinders and build my own pedal assembly that works with a stock ford master cylinder and vacuum booster. I used a inline pressure valve to create differential brake bias. And two electric vacuum pumps for the boost as the engine has to much cam. This totally fixed the line pressure issue and now my truck stops. This could have done this with a hydro booster too but I didn’t want to take any oil from the steering system.

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This a pic of the pedal system looking up. There’s a “L” rocker in there that converts pedal “push” to a cable that runs across the back side of the tire wall and wraps around the passanger side to the back side of the cab. This cable uses a pulling force to actuate the booster and master.

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Back side view of the pedal assembly from the seat.

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This is the vacuum booster and master cylinders. It is hidden behind the passenger seat. The white bottle is the fire bottle. The pull cable clearly seen in this pic. The system need two vacuum pumps to work right. The only better way to do this would be use a hydraulic booster from a diesel one ton truck. I could still do that but I don’t want have volume and pressure issues then with the steering pump. My pumps not that big.

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The truck. Before I did this it would not stop with any amount of confidence. Poor would describe the truck stopping ability with the cnc dual master assembly. Now it stops. Even with the “e” compound pads.

Btw, all the stock parts are “unmolested stock 1995 f-150” parts that can be found in any auto parts store on either side of the boarder. If some thing breaks with the booster or master cylinder, autozone will have it.

your master cyl in a manual brake assembly need to be matched to piston sizes in the calipers you have. i removed the factory power brake system from a chevy about a year ago and now his brakes work the best they ever have. line pressure over piston surface area= clamping force. you also have piston surface area vs pad surface area. these are some of the characteristics that cause 1 caliper to need 1400psi to lock up 40's on the street and others need 900psi. yes, pad compound has an effect, however with those elements dialed in along with pedal geometry. you can choose a longer lasting pad and rotor combo that don't fad and will last a full race season.

Evans Motorsports

Well-Known Member
This is great info, A few of us who have raced for many years in several classes are looking to making our braking systems work as good as possible. Our have worked good but not real good driving trucks in 7200, 8100, 1450 and class 8 for years.Needing the best safest system for our teams and drivers. It defiantly will have a effect on our racing abilities as braking plays such an important part in your performance.


Well-Known Member
I am running an aero4 up front. Same chassis as the aero6 but drilled for four pistons instead of 6.
Same pad shape too I believe.
the reason we went with the aero4 was the piston area was an exact match for the outgoing caliper.

running xp8 carbotech pads and pedal feels a little soft (most would probably not notice it) at first but the slightest bit of warmth, not heat, warmth and the pedal changes. Apparently that has to do with the compound.

if I were to do it again, I would go with a slightly smaller piston area to gain a little more forward clamp. But no real advantage other than if for some reason I destroy a caliper to try next time.