ok..... you do not want to have to weld ANY gaps. as for hole saws, if you are fitting a 1 3/4 in. tube up against a tube of equil size, use a 1 3/4 in. hole saw. when fitting a piece of 1 1/2 in. tubing up against a 1 3/4 in tube, also use a 1 3/4 in. hole saw. when fitting a 1 1/2 up against a 1 1/2 use a 1 1/2 in hole saw............. catch my drift?
but you do want some gap when mig welding and no gap when tig welding. or else you will end up with a larger uglier weld mig welding material that is touching. Am I right or have I been told wrong.....
The attractiveness of a bead has a lot more to do with the skill of the welder as opposed to the presence of a gap or lack thereof. I usually prefer to have the tubes fit up against each other as tightly as possible.
If there is a gap in the joint that means you are filling that with the welder. If there is no gap I think you are going to get better penetration between the two pieces you are joining because you aren't wasting any of the heat and material from the weld were there's no material. right?
Anyone have a good source for 2.5" ID galvanized pipe. I'm going to be cutting out all the DOM chassis/cage and starting over on my truck. From the website Jeff posted, it seems like I've been going at it all wrong. I'm thinking about selling my bender and notcher as well, seems like I should be able to rebuild it all without any bends and notches!!
Ya, there's going to thousand's of dollars worth of fab tools for sale in the classifieds soon. I wish I would have thought about doing it the "better way" before I bought my bender, a full set of dies, Tube notcher, plasma cutter,,,on and on.
Early 90's at Crandon. ... All the GOB cars had iron pipe cages on the OUTSIDE of the car.... ssooooo cooooolll.... And there was a 100 of them...... I think some of the Class 13 (now Sport 2) had a little Iron pipe in them too....