Best radio for spectator

jsallenbach

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Looking at getting a radio for my truck. I heard the Icom 2200 is pretty good, but i have heard you need to modify them to transmit message's. Any other opinions or other brands that you would recommend Kind of on a budget 200$. Thanks
 

TreyP

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Yeasu 2800M about <$150 or so and is a great radio. HRO has them and the mod is real easy. Easy to program and disconnecting the mike is real simple(suggest you do it). You can get the whole set up for less then $200 ie radio/antenna.
 

wrightracing.net

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If you are a spectator the best way to go is a scanner not a radio that transmits. Cheap radio's and spectators tend to endanger racers.

Go to ebay and get a scanner.



BC92XLT - New Uniden 800 MHz Racing Scanner BC 92XLT



This will cover the race freq's 150Mhz to 160Mhz
 

jsallenbach

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We help letner racing and lawrence equipment racing so i need a radio for that, not a scanner just in case something happens or even a handheld race radio like the icom f11 from pci how does that work.
 
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wrightracing.net

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We help letner racing and lawrence equipment racing so i need a radio for that, not a scanner just in case something happens or even a handheld race radio like the icom f11 from pci how does that work.

Ok then you are not just a spectator. The handhelds don't work woth beans for distance. For car to car communications or as the car comes in to the pits the handhelds work ok. But if you need to get out past 7-10 miles you need a regular incar mounted radio. The best way to go is the Icom F121 Chase Package from PCI. Good durable package but a little high on price at $400 for a complete package.

If that price is out of your range you can look for used radio's on Race desert or Ebay.

I started out with a Icom converted ham radio but soon saw the light on the quality difference between a real radio that was designed for the frequencies we run on over that of a HAM radio conversion. Stay away from the conversion radios if you plan on talking race day.

Now I run with the big boys and run Kenwood 110watt race radios in all my vehicals, makes a big difference but at $1200 or more for a full setup it is not the cheap way to go.

PM me if you want more info on a used cheaper race radio, I might be able to help.
 

joe1369

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The issue for the hand helds are the amount of power that they put out. Hand helds are 5 watts, Icom f121 is $400.00 and it puts out 50 watts and the kenwoods, $1100.00 are 110 watts. Aren't hand helds in the $225.-- to $300.00 range. Look for a used Icom or something that will put out at least 50 watts.
 

OR2BAJA

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I disagree about ham radios! I was told about the Kenwood TM-271a it is an offroad water resisitant, purpose built ham radio that is very very stout! It is a 60watt radio and it comes in a very small package. I bought through a dealer in indiana and he was top notch! He even cut my antenna to the correct frequencies. I did take the time to have it professionally updated with all of the Freq's from PCI. Great buy! Here are a couple of links!

http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/3684

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Communications/Amateur_Radio/Mobiles/TM-271A
 

wrightracing.net

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Opinions are like farts sometimes the stink and sometimes they don't.

As for my opinion some may think it stinks.

But the opinion that I formed about the whole ham radio conversion not being a good way to go is based on using a converted Icom V8000 (which is a radio I did like until I was half way down the Baja 1000 course and the v8000 could just barely make it to the BFG relay. The Icom is a 75watt radio. just next to me was a Kenwood race radio that was only 45watts and worked a 100% better and did not have any issue talking with BFG relay. At first I thought the radio might have problem, but after testing the Icom was working to OEM specs.

Last year I started using Kenwood 110watt radios oh watt a difference cleaner and clearer. Even a 45watt race radio is safer and cleaner than converted radios.

That is just my 2 cents, I earned on the race course.
 

CaptinCrash

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does pci sell motorolas ? sorry to hijack your thread
 

bajaxp

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No problem, i just want to get the best info on a radio so i dont get a crappy one that will give up on me. If you run a 50 watt radio wouldn't that drain your battery down.

I don't think so...the big draw comes when you are transmitting. If you are just listening you would be good all day, if you start with a strong battery.
 

Forty1Racing

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If you are a spectator the best way to go is a scanner not a radio that transmits. Cheap radio's and spectators tend to endanger racers.

Go to ebay and get a scanner.



BC92XLT - New Uniden 800 MHz Racing Scanner BC 92XLT



This will cover the race freq's 150Mhz to 160Mhz
I agree for a pure spectator scanner is a great way to go.
 

Waldo

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No problem, i just want to get the best info on a radio so i dont get a crappy one that will give up on me. If you run a 50 watt radio wouldn't that drain your battery down.

Car battery??? You shouldn't have an issue if your battery is decent condition. At our pit, I run our commnications (radios) from my truck battery. I've never had any issues. When in the same location for a couple/few days, I usally start my truck up once per day for a little charging just to be on the safe side.

I am a ham radio operator and also use business band raidos. FYI - For any radio (ham/business)...proper set up is the key. Direct connection to battery, placement of the antenna for proper ground, antenna length for freqency desired...all these will be part of the "distance/talkability" equation.

Good luck.
 

DanDan

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A little info on the power issue. Signal strength is measured is s-units. 1 s-unit is equal to a 6db gain and doesn't make much difference in intelligibility. If you double the signal strength, that is only a 3db increase so you would have to double the power twice to get an additional s-unit. This means that if a 50 watt radio gives a 3 s-unit reading at the receiver, a 100 watt radio will only give a 3.5 s-unit reading. If you wanted to deliver a 4 s-unit reading at the receiver it would take a 200 watt radio and that won't make a lot of difference. You can understand a 1 s-unit signal usually and a full strength signal is S9. Doubling of power does not make your radio sound twice as good.

The manufacturers don't all calibrate the meters the same so these are just general guidelines and YMMV slightly.

The key to dependable communication is the antenna not the radio. You can't believe all of the hype from the antenna manufacturers but the general rule that you get what you pay for works here as well. A good antenna on a permanent mount in the center of your roof will be the best thing you can do to increase the performance of your radio system.
 

shooei

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I have both ham and commercial radios, both work good. It's just another essential part of your truck like the engine or transmission. Install it correctly, keep it in good shape and it will do wonders. The people who have problems with the ham radios have no business using them to begin with.
 

TreyP

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I have both ham and commercial radios, both work good. It's just another essential part of your truck like the engine or transmission. Install it correctly, keep it in good shape and it will do wonders. The people who have problems with the ham radios have no business using them to begin with.

Bingo!!! We have a winner!!:cool:
 

dan200

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Antenna question...On a chase truck (crew cab) a permanently mounted roof antenna in the center of the roof is ideal correct? I am wondering what the difficulties would be with the addition of a bed rack?

If there is a bed rack that extends over the cab with stretch metal across it what would be the best mounting situation?

What would be the case with a bedrack that only extends over the back half the cab roof ?
 
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