Boxing the Frame

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Kritter

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Thats why I stated "could have been"...not saying it would have hurt them.
 

Jerry Zaiden

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BOX it in. Your truck will last way longer!

How many of you have built, raced, and crashed a truck to see how it will react when not boxed? Kritter has never built an off-road truck so I would say that he has no clue...
 

Project1500

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I was thinking of boxing my frame from below the extended cab back to where theres almost a foot before where my bump stop hits. Im having a problem with frame wanting to bend at that point because the back half exerts so much force when the rear bottoms out. The reason I am not boxing the whole frame is because fuel lines etc run inside the c channel and it will be tough to reroute everything. Later I will cage the truck which should help eliminate this problem but time or money doesnt allow right now. Any thoughts?
 

Kritter

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"Kritter has never built an off-road truck so I would say that he has no clue... "

You say a lot Jerry...often times too much and believe you me, I hear it more form others then I say it myself. Why do I need to build one to have a clue? The team that I help has been racing for 4 years on a non boxed chassis and its fine...that’s solid proof and I am sure a race truck will log more miles then the majority of prerunners being built.

But if that was your piss for distance...here goes mine with some of your "no clue" chatter...

One day at your shop while returning a set of Camburg radius arms for a set built to Kris' "no clue" specifications, we were talking and two things came out of your mouth that made me think... "clueless"

See if you recall...

No Clue #1

"failures cant be calculated...I will give you $1000 to calculate when [such and such] part will fail" I coulda done it for you right then and there but you had to have the last word and tell me I couldn’t...I woulda loved to have takin your wad of cash and walked away happy.

No Clue #2

or the same reason that you told me... "who cares about geometry as long as it drives straight I don’t care if the geometry is good, our stuff is for dirt, not asphalt"

Don’t call KD and complain or send me a PM or call me at work and sniffle Jerry, ...I don’t want to hear it...I haven’t even checked your last sniffle. I don’t plan to build another truck so no need to tell me "you don’t know anything" or "what have you built" or "build a truck and come race"...that’s like me tellin you to build a bike and come race... why do I care? Do it for fun, not to prove anything.

As to keep with this thread...I still say don’t box it unless you plan on banging through whoops for hundreds of miles at more then 40 mph.... or listen to Jerry as he has all the "clues"….hell take your truck down to Camburg and ask that Jerry builds it for you PERSONALLY.

See Jerry I try to refer people to you. Keep on bashin me Jerry...its good for business.
 

billymanfroy

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RE: "Any new thoughts on boxing the frame since this thread has been down for along time?"

First thing we did is box ours front to back w/ 16 ga. steel. It doesn't look as purty as Jerry's stuff, but none of our stuff does LOL. It was tough to do with a oxy/act torch, mucho grinders, hack saws, sawzalls, etc. but well worth it in my opinion. Why didn't we use a plasma cutter you ask? IT WAS 1994!!! We have not had ONE crack ever. EVERY other Ranger that I've been around that was built that long ago (and used half as much as ours) is retired.

BOX IT, you will be happier in the long run. One warning, it does require that you get more creative when bolting stuff to the frame (Crossmembers, etc). I also HIGHLY recommend putting extra plates on the frame where you plan on welding tubes to it for the cage, bumper, etc. If you don't, the crappy, thin frame material will give way on impact.

Billy
 

sirhk100

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Kris,

I'm almost ready to race again!!! I'll "bring it" on behalf of Jerry
tongue.gif
The knee is ready to rock and my fingers that I unhappily hacked off are just about glove worthy again!!! Talk about a string of bad luck. BIke prep is on the agenda this upcoming weekend and I'll be looking to race probably starting last weekend in March if anything is lined up.

BTW, my Camburg radius arms are bent because I ran the bumps where Jerry told me to. I plated them up using my own common sense. After bent the reply was something along "well, you should've plated them like this..." I asked where to hit the bumps and what to modify while installing and no advice was given at that point... To me, isn't that backwards? Okay, that's my only gripe with Camburg...
tongue.gif
Luv ya Jerry
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Khris
 

Project1500

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What about plating the outside of the frame in sections where its weak instead of boxing it?
 

jesusgatos

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We just plated the inner framerail on our 4WD Tacoma. Here is a link to an article with some pictures of it, http://www.off-road.com/toyota/projects/tacoma/rear_suspension/page2.html
The bed is caged, but we haven't come forward into the cab. We don't have many hard miles in the dirt on it yet, but when we took it out rock crawling we noticed that the frame still flexes a little bit under & just behind the cab. Eliminating the flex in the rear of the framerails has transfered it forward. We're planning to solid-mount the body and come through the cab with the cagework in order to brace the entire chassis.
 

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Josh_K

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I dont think it really matters if it is boxed or plated. I would plate it.

I think it was Rod Hall that once said "I have never seen a truck built too heavy broke on the side of the trail".

And I have heard Dave Ashley state "more steel is a good thing".

Josh
 

Jerry Zaiden

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Kritter,

Keep talking out your A$$. I never said any of the things you are saying.
I am not going to even get into it with you because I know how "You" really are. This is not a bash but it is truth.
I just do not understand how you can give advise on a board to people who "Think you have then answers" when in fact you do not really understand trucks.
Let me ask you,
1) have you ever built a truck?
2) who's and where.

Now if you are going to get on this or any other board please stick to facts. Don't just say don't plate it in because......

I have fixed many craked frames by welding in the cracks then "plating in the frame" and guess what??? That is right NO PROBLEMS......
So I say plate it in..

Now to the question at hand. Our race truck built in 2 months... no time to plate in frame. Where the front part of the cage was welded to the frame, the side of impact from our roll. It buckled the frame there. Well if it was plated in I would have had less to no frame damage. In my opinion this would have not made it unsafe to me or my co-driver. The cage would have still held up just fine. The bend was only minor but it still bent. Now for what we have done... Well it is now plated in and I bet the chassis will last way londer than befor.

Now kritter you said I said...
1.
"failures cant be calculated"..
NO I said it would cost $Millions of dollars to simulate the desert. I said this in response to you saying that our bushing radius arm pivot braket was going to fail...You said that you can run a stree-anyl on it.. This is when you where in you engineering school.
2."who cares about geometry as long as it drives straight I don’t care if the geometry is good, our stuff is for dirt, not asphalt"
Why would I ever say this? We put tons of time into what we do.

I see it now... Put positive camber into the kit, make it bump with no caber curve, and put no king pin incl in it, O-yea 0 caster works great...LOL

Kritter I love you...
 
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