brake lines

dezerts10

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I will soon be getting rid of my ABS and am going to be using porportining valves to set up my braking system. I can get the tubing form work for free but i need to get the ends flanged and tubing bent to the right shape. Or i can buy braided steel lines ready to go. is there anything wrong with using braided steel lines or should i get the tubing and get it bent and flanged? Does anyone know an approx. price for braided steel lines? i will need like atleast 4 feet of it i believe.

Gregg
 

partybarge_pilot

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Invest in a double flare tool kit (about 35$) and run hard lines. You can never go wrong investing in tool's. Just be sure the tubing to be flared is cut square or it will break the little guide of the first flare insert. BTW, I did this mod about 2 weeks ago and love it.
 

dezerts10

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Yeah thats what i did i wentr to sears and picked up a flaring tool kit and a pipe cutter for 28 bucks. what size piping is brake line usually, i think the stuff i can get from work is a little bigger then whats on there right now? and i cant rememebr what or anything about flare nuts for the fittings. Can i just get them at the hardware store or should i pick someup at an auto parts store?
thanks,
Gregg
 

tkr

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Brake lines are usually 3/16" or 1/4". Auto parts stores carry them in varying lengths. I've had a hard time finding extra flare nuts, so save the ones you cut off. And be very careful not to overtighten the nuts when you put the lines together. For some reason, I've found hand made flares crack very easily.

Good Luck.

Matt Nelson
Team Kwik Racing
 

scott

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G&L in Ontario set me up for about $40... braided line, hardware, hardline, & fittings... Call em up
(909) 986-6534....
 

bajaruner11

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00s10prerunner a little something you need to now about brake systems. Use as little braided and rubber line as possible, and use it only at flex points where things move like calipers, and suspension. The more soft line you use the less effective your brakes will be, stay with HARD line. Also in regards to flaring tools I have never seen a double ended flaring tool set for sale for less than around a couple hundred bucks that will work. You CAN'T use a standard pipe flaring tool from the local hardware plumbing department. Brake line flaring tools use special dies in conjunction with the flaring tool. Do yourself a favor, NAPA sells pre-flared brake line in all various lengths, even the stuff with spring wire rapped around it so you can hand bend it, and it's super heavy duty, It also comes in really long lengths if you need it, they usually keep this stuff in the back. No I don't work for NAPA. Hope this helps, good luck.
 

ntsqd

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I have plumbed two cars entirely in -3 braided stainless flex line. Both were done that way for expediency, not 'trickness' or cost. One is a Drag car and we don't really care about brake modulation on those. As long as the pedal inspires driver confidence and they work we're good to go.
The other was a Road Race car. There we do care about modulation, far more than anything I've seen in the dez so far. Both cars have extremely linear brake response and feel. Yes, it probably does flex more than Bundy tubing would, neither driver complained and the road racer won his national class in the first season with that car.

The key to hand flared double flares not cracking is in the prep of the end of the tube b4 flaring it. Both ID & OD HAVE to be carefully chamfered and deburred. Grobet makes a special tool just for this purpose. The end also has to square, don't count on a tubing cutter making it square enough. They don't do so every time.

Size is important. You might not have heard that b4. On brakes use either 3/16" tubing or -3 braided. You're distributing pressure more than volume, even with disc brakes. Using 1/4" when you don't have to is building in unnecessary flex.
The volume demands of clutch systems are better served by -4 or 1/4" tubing. In very rare cases large bore drum brake wheel cyls or OE calipers may require 1/4" tubing due to the volume they require.

TS

"It only seems kinky the first time"
-- Bumpersticker seen in Lost Wages
 

prospectator

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Gregg,
I removed the abs on my 95 S-10 and didn't need to add any line. You can run the fronts right out of the factory proportioning valve. It's that little aluminum piece that is between your master cylinder and abs. Run your front and rear lines from there, but add the proportioning valve to the rear line. You don't want to reduce brake pressure in the front brakes. Only the rear. I can take a pic of mine to show you how I did it, if you want? It works great. Your actually moving the lines very little and some cutting and reflaring is required.
Bryce
 

michael_loomis

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Bryce , i would like to see some pics! when you disconnect your abs , what do you have to do electronically , nothing ? just unplug it. i would assume that the idiot light would remain on , did you take the bulb out? oh and where did you get your proportioning valve for the rear ? thanks again
 

dezerts10

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Bryce,

Yeah i rememebr that but i have to get rid of the entire system meaning toss ing it into the trash can. I need the room for coilovers. I havent really set a plan in place yet but i wanna run two porportioning valves. One for the front and one for the rear. i got adjustable ones so i can adjust the amount of skiding and sliding, i am assuming will come form diriving in the dirt. I may not need to get hose though but i have to think about what i am going to do first. Whats the opinion on the set up i am going to be running? good or bad?

Thanks,
Gregg
 

prospectator

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Mike,
I'll take some pics and send them to you. You can get the proportioning valve from summit for about 40 bucks. Yeah, the idiot lite stays on but you don't even notice it after a week.

Gregg,
I also threw my whole abs system away. But, You only need one proportioning valve for the rear brakes. I drive mine in the dirt alot and it works great.
 

bajaruner11

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You only use on proportioning valve. Set the rears to work with the front equally, and the rest is done with the brake pedal.
 

michael_loomis

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cool thanks Bryce , but the light just wont fly , i'll have to rip the dash out and pull the bulb out. this leads me to another question , since i have my front bumper off and the bulbs are out of the blinker sockets , the flashing arrows stay lit solid when my parking lights are on , although they flash when the appropriate blinker is on. (follow me?) is there any way to jumper the socket or change flashers to make them work correctly with out the bumper blinkers. the corner lamps work fine as blinkers as they have a 90 degree viewing radius. hope i didnt confuse the you know what out of everyone!!
 

Kritter

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Jump the wires so there is not an open circuit.

Kris
"I was thinking the exact same thing about you..."
 

dezerts10

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ok i guess the single porportioning valve is the way to go. anybody wanna buy an adjustable valve 35 bucks?

Gregg
 

michael_loomis

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wouldnt jumping the wire just blow a fuse ? maybe i should jump them with a resistor or something?
 

prospectator

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Mike,
I had some similar lighting problems when I removed my turn signals that were in the bumper. I had to find a dual filament blinker/flasher and wire it identical to my factory plug and it works fine. But on my truck there was a blinker in the bumper and the marker light blinked. I'm not sure if this is how your truck is set up?
 

michael_loomis

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ya its the same , bumper lights(dual filament) were on all the time with parking lights and flashed alternately with corner lamp (single filament).
 

Kritter

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jump the wire in parlallel with your lights that you still have...if they did teh same thing that is. I did not mean short circuit the wires...twist them together, which would blow a fuse.

Kris
"I was thinking the exact same thing about you..."
 
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