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brakes

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
Ok I have been going round and round today kartek, cnc, willwood? I trying to get the correct dual master size and residual valve pressure. First off its on a 94 ranger with 83-88 front beams stock brakes rear 9" w/ 12 rotors 1 3/4 piston diameter on 4 piston willwoods. Will race 1450 and glamis toy.

So went to kartek and bought 7/8 and 1" masters with 2 lbs valves and reverse swing pedal. They were a big help.

Then call cnc when I get home and the person told me the calipers were to small for my application and that I really needed 14" rotors. With my setup if I use what I have now I would need 3/4 masters for front and rear. and a 2 lb residual valve.

So what do I need to do? Is this enough brakes? What size master should I run?
whats other people running on their rangers.
 

partybarge_pilot

Well-Known Member
Rotors and calipers are fine. MC? how long is your pedal? This sounds like a question for NTSQD........ Also, having the right pads helps alot...... Ask the same guy.......
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
it a 14 , so if thats all good what size should the master cylinders be, 3/4,7/8,1" and the residual valves pressure? I got the tall cnc masters by the way.
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
Come on why is it so hard to get race info on a race site? anybody race a mini with aftermarket brakes and rear end?
 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
I've no idea what the piston size of a Ranger caliper is, but I'll bet it's borderline too large in comparison to what you have in the rear.
I'd blow the 14" rotor suggestion out the window for now. It's a good idea, but it won't solve your hydraulics issues. What size are your front rotors? I'll guess that your rear rotors are bigger than your fronts. That could become a problem once you get the hydraulics somewhere close to balanced.

From reading, watching, & helping where I can I've come to the conclusion that mixing stock brake parts (like calipers) with aftermarket part causes a lot more headaches than if you either use a mix-n-match of stock parts or all aftermarket parts. OE sliding calipers require a lot of fluid to move the pads into rotor contact. That means you either need a large m/c bore or a long stroke m/c. Given the limitations of aftermarket m/c's it's pretty hard to get there from here. A large bore results in a stiff pedal, but not necessarily good stopping power. Most folks do not trust a long pedal stroke.

If the m/c's are significantly above the calipers (like in the stock location or nearly so) you should NOT need an RPV. Those are mostly used in cases like buggies and dragsters where the m/c(s) are at or below the height of the calipers. There odd times when an RPV is needed in a system that classically shouldn't require them, but those are reasonably rare.
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
So from my research so far I am better of upgrading the front brakes/rotors/hub and possible spindle. Anybody make a kit 83-88 ranger, it will be a bummer ditching the stock stuff after having the snouts tig welded and installing napa fleet series ball joints. But if it gets the brakes to work right and I can upgrade to 5 on 5.5 to match the back it will be worth it. So what size rotor should I run in front? Ive got some 1.38 4 piston willwoods that fit a 1.25 rotor, that willwood said would work. So am I on the right track now?

By the way I thought baker motorsports and h and m made race hubs that would work but couldnt find bakers website and phone number on yahoo was dissconnected. No info on hand ms site and nobody answered at the shop. Also called baja shop number on their site since they built the front but it also didnt work?
 

CRAIG_HALL

Well-Known Member
Kartek has some 2" snouts that you press in to your original spindle after removing the stock one.If they dont know talk to scott down at PRO-AM. This will let you run a 2" truck hub setup with 5 on 5.5 you just need to weld on a caliper mount.They might even have somebody welding up some also.
 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
The 1-3/8" calipers should be on the rear. Move the 1-3/4" calipers to the front. Use the same OD or a slightly larger OD rotor on the front compared to the rear.
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
that totally makes sense but funny thing is the guy at willwood told me to run it the opposite 1 3/4 rear and 1.38 front.
 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
Are you sure? That's an extremely odd set-up.
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
ya, well i think I am going to go with the pro-am hub/snout that kartek sells. But is there any fab shop that make a beefier spindal for 83-88 rangers that has a willwood caliper mount and 2" snout with the stock bjs?
 

Superfab

Well-Known Member
Cone Industries sold front stuff buts its been years since Ive used it and don't remember the details. Wouldn't hurt to call.
 

MH20

Well-Known Member
Baker Motorsports does their spindles with an explorer/ranger 4x4 snout on the stock 2WD ranger spindle and also sets them up for Wilwood brakes.

Not the 5x5.5 pattern you're looking for, but its definitely a good place to start since John does all of that stuff on a custom basis anyways.
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
Whats bakers number I thought they made spindels but douldnt find their website and the number I got in yahoo search didnt work.

I am not as worried about the 5 on 5.5 as much as getting the willwoods to mout so my cnc master works right, but it would be nice so I can get a set of beadlocks with all the same pattern.
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
Well I talked to baker today and I leaning toward his 4wd ranger snout or possible a fullsize snout and run 5 on 5.5 on my stock spindle. That way the caliper mount and gussets will already be done on the spindle and I'll have a good brake setup. Also the parts are easily found for replacing stuff.
 
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