Buggy Shock Tuning - Coilover and Bypass setup

JWHracing

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I have a mostly tube chassis baja bug that started out with torsion bars and 2.5 3 tube bypass shocks. I recently converted the rear to now have a coilover instead of a torsion bar. I changed the bypass valving to 2,1/90 to be better paired with the coilover springs vs. a torsion bar and did not touch the valving in the coilover as I wanted to get a starting point with what I had. The bypass tubes are all full open right now. The rear of the car feels loads better than when it had a torsion bar, but I've noticed that the coilover is hot to the touch, and the bypass is barely warm.

Does this mean I have too much valving in the coilover, and the valving in the coilover is doing all the work in the car? I am happy with the way the rear of the car feels and performs, it is predictable and very easy to drive, but the temperature difference concerns me and I'm trying to figure out which direction I need to go to start tuning.
 

osidepunker

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So I am definitely not an expert, but I was always under the impression that you want your coilover and bypass to have even temperature after a hard run. I bought an IR thermometer and I check my temp occasionally. They are mostly even between CO and bypass.

I would think that you need to lighten the valving in the CO. I would start there and begin closing your tubes since you said they were full open.

But again, I'm no expert. Just someone who is trying to learn this stuff.
 

cosmo

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What is in the c/o shock? I would try 2/1/70 in the bypass shock. 50/50 in the c/o shock 180 psi in all the shocks (at full droop). Where is the cross over set at ride height? Now you should have room to play with the bypass tubes.
 
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JWHracing

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Not sure what the valving is in the coilover. It came off the back of Arctic Cat Wildcat 1000. They have a compression adjuster on them and they are at the softest setting right now. The crossover is 2.5" from the slider at ride height. Running 450/600 if that matters. 1.5" of preload.

The car doesn't buck or kick and it doesn't bottom out either. It rides really good, I just don't like the temperature difference in the two shocks.
 

JWHracing

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Eventually it is going to cook the oil in the shocks. 15 miles of run time and I can't touch the coilover but I can touch the bypass. I'm not asking for the secret valve setup that is going to work, I'm asking if my logic is correct that the coilover valving is doing all the work and I need to start by removing valving in the coilover.
 

cosmo

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The c/o shocks are Walker Evans shocks,? Yes, I would lighten up the valving in them. Let the bypass do the work.
 

partybarge_pilot

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Things to look for in the C/O's, low flow pistons and rate plates. Both of these will create a lot of heat even with reasonable valving.
 
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