Bump Stops in the front suspension of a beamed car

DOG ON

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Why is it I have never seen bump stops tried in the front trailing arms of a beamed car?

Is this a very stupid idea?
 

Random Thoughts Racing

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An air bump would be overkill. Try these closed cell foam bumps instead, much more forgiving than a urethane bottom out pad and only a few bucks! Can be easily shortened and they will fold inside out before they will split. This is the Nunez 5/1600 front shock from San Felipe if you need race win credibility for the setup.
 

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texasag02

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Why is it I have never seen bump stops tried in the front trailing arms of a beamed car?

Is this a very stupid idea?

Probably because you have never seen my car. I just put a set of 2.5" stroke Fox bumpstops on the front of my class 12 car and they work great. I was able to go down one springrate on the front shocks and let the shocks start working like they should. I just got first place and second overall in Feb. in Austin. Take my advice and use bump stops for bump stops and shocks for shocks.
 

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Wendell #527

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Probably because you have never seen my car. I just put a set of 2.5" stroke Fox bumpstops on the front of my class 12 car and they work great. I was able to go down one springrate on the front shocks and let the shocks start working like they should. I just got first place and second overall in Feb. in Austin. Take my advice and use bump stops for bump stops and shocks for shocks.

That is interesting. I see you have no bypasses but the bumpstop instead. My problem with that is you'd have no progressive valving until the bumpstop. You can generally get the same effect with properly valving a bypass. Add more valving, and back out the bypasses and you get at least one more set of progression plus you have the lockout area as your bumpstop. On the other hand, yours worked and that front end looks a lot lighter than mine with no bypasses. Add to that the little wheels/tires in front and that old school low front end. Nice looking car. Maybe on that light of front end the bumpstop is the hot ticket!
 

texasag02

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That is interesting. I see you have no bypasses but the bumpstop instead. My problem with that is you'd have no progressive valving until the bumpstop. You can generally get the same effect with properly valving a bypass. Add more valving, and back out the bypasses and you get at least one more set of progression plus you have the lockout area as your bumpstop. On the other hand, yours worked and that front end looks a lot lighter than mine with no bypasses. Add to that the little wheels/tires in front and that old school low front end. Nice looking car. Maybe on that light of front end the bumpstop is the hot ticket!

Thanks. Yeah I debated putting bypasses on the front but since it is so light I didn't see the need. I found that getting the rebound/compression set right on the coilover was 90% of getting the front end to ride correctly. Also, I don't like using shocks as the bottoming stops. When you bottom out the shock that is a lot of force on the shock body and the 1/2" bolts holding it. The nice thing about having the hydraulic bump stops is you can bottom pretty hard and not hurt the car.
 

Dezertpilot

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An air bump would be overkill. Try these closed cell foam bumps instead, much more forgiving than a urethane bottom out pad and only a few bucks! Can be easily shortened and they will fold inside out before they will split. This is the Nunez 5/1600 front shock from San Felipe if you need race win credibility for the setup.

Why does that shock have two reservoir lines? I see one is capped off.
 

cosmo

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You missed one. Note the plug in the screw top of the shock. I would NOt want a "cap" installed on a race shock!
 

DOG ON

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Thanks. Yeah I debated putting bypasses on the front but since it is so light I didn't see the need. I found that getting the rebound/compression set right on the coilover was 90% of getting the front end to ride correctly. Also, I don't like using shocks as the bottoming stops. When you bottom out the shock that is a lot of force on the shock body and the 1/2" bolts holding it. The nice thing about having the hydraulic bump stops is you can bottom pretty hard and not hurt the car.

This is so interesting!!! pos rep sent bro...do you mind sharing a picture of your front setup?

THANKS!
 

Random Thoughts Racing

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There are some more pictures of it on www.texasoff-road.com/austin180pics.html. I don't have any better than these right now.

What are the length and manufacturer of the arms you are using? Are you still running any torsions besides the coils? It looks like you are hitting the upper arm close to the beam pivot point, correct?
 

texasag02

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What are the length and manufacturer of the arms you are using? Are you still running any torsions besides the coils? It looks loke you are hitting the upper arm close to the beam pivot point, correct?

I am using the 4" over Foddrill arms that I have modified for bump stop pads. Just running coils, no torsion bars. The bump stops hit about 2" forward of the link pins.
 

westtexasbaja

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probably because you have never seen my car. I just put a set of 2.5" stroke fox bumpstops on the front of my class 12 car and they work great. I was able to go down one springrate on the front shocks and let the shocks start working like they should. I just got first place and second overall in feb. In austin. Take my advice and use bump stops for bump stops and shocks for shocks.

nice pic!
 
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