carb 22r setups

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geoff

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Just curious how much people here have played with 22r carb setups?

Lookin at offy intakes, vs the stock intake using any weber setup. Not sidedrafts. really just for curiosity but im interested in what people have found that these intakes do? Im converting to standalone efi, but jsut for the sake of bullshit, has anyone actually tried the offy intakes and used different sized carbs with good results?

I was contemplating doing a tbi efi setup so that would necessitate the use of a wet intake manifold so if the offys actually worked id run one of them, otherwise jsut stick with the exorbitantly long runnere-ed sotck 22r efi manifold (those runners are jsut too damn long).

"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams." -- Willy Wonka
 
firedog

firedog

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We use a stock intake that is ported and polished with a Webber 38mm 2bbl carb and it has worked well for us. The head has been ported and polished as well. We are getting around 175hp and the bottom end of the engine is stock with 30 over pistons.
 
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cleartoy

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Ive only run 40MM Weber side drafts on my 22R. Stock EFI is good on the other one.

Are you planning on running a turbo? Just curious why you want or need stand alone.

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geoff

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how did you like the 40mm? I have no experience with carbs or how to tune them/their behavior off road etc etc.

I am building a turbo for the truck, as turbo fab is what i do for a living. The truck is in az and im in NJ right now so i ahvent put any effort into it. Ill be back in az in sept so ill work on it then... just thinking about playing with a carb first just for the hell of it whiel i make the wiring harness and all turbo plumbing.

"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams." -- Willy Wonka
 
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ntsqd

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What I've found to be crucial to those Weber progressives running well in the rough is to close off the stock bowl vents. Be careful not to plug off the vents for the air bleeds in the high speed circuits. I use either J-B Weld or Devcon Aluminum Putty. Then I use my Dremel-mill and mill a hole in the carb top for a 1/4" piece of steel tubing. This I extend as high as the sir filter will let me. Stop it short of the filter lid about 1/4" and flare the end if it's pretty long piece of tube(say 3"+). Otherwise take it right up to the lid (but not contacting) and cut it diagonally.
While I've got the Devcon or J-B handy I put a dollop on each pressed in or crimped in plug on the carb body, and to plug the choke pull rod's hole.

TS

"It only seems kinky the first time"
-- Bumpersticker seen in Lost Wages
 
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geoff

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well i appreciate the input but that is all greek to me. If it doesnt have a I/O (serial) port im SOL haha.

i jsut wanted to put a carb on the motor for the time being until i setup the efi. Basically what would you run the 32/36 DGEV or the 38 DGES? I have access to a flow bench im gonna port the head, keep the cam realtively conservative, not too aggressive, and ill make a long runner header, but that is only until the efi is done, sooo whats the diff, which works better and why? Thanks

... efi is sooo much easier im spoiled. No drilling holes for vents and sealing others up =) haha

"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams." -- Willy Wonka
 
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cleartoy

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I liked the carbs for the most part. Great mid range power, and winds out on top. The linkage supplied was flimsy causing a slight stumble off line due to one carb slightly leading the other, but right after the throttle stop got off it was ok.

They were supprisingly easy to start in the morning with no choke, but i ran em a little rich.

They are way easy to change jets.

Only reason i took em off was for smog, and now im trying to sell the 85 truck, so running the stock carb for now.

ID love to run a turbo EFI set up on my 94, but having to run a SDS or any stand alone setup is an extra $1000. I think the turbo kit that LC puts out is reasonable at $2442, but add the SDS, Intercooler, and it is just out of reach.

85 Toyota xtracab 4x4(for sale)
94 Toyota stdcab 2x4
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geoff

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well that is all the more reason to learn about turbos and do something yourself! Its really not that hard... just cutting welding and some plumbing just like anything else. small t3/t04e turbos (ones that are ideal on a 22r) are very affordable, and the manifold/downpipe/charge piping is cake. 2442 for what LC engineering offers is highway robbery. The only thing you shoul dhave to spend money on is the EFI system (most important of all). Get a fuel pump from a mustang, injectors from a mitsubishi eclipse turbo, an internal wastegate on the turbo (like from a mustang svo/merkur xr4ti) and i bet you could make a solid kit that puts out more power than lc's kit for well under a grand.

As long as the efi is setup properly and tuned well you shouldnt have any reliability/driveability problems.

BTW you want to sell the old carb ?? =)

"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams." -- Willy Wonka
 
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cleartoy

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Well, I would sell my dual side drafts for $750. Nothin wrong with em. Bought em for $950(cheapest price i could find) and ran less than a year.

Like you said, a person would have to get educated to make sure everything ran correctly together.

The turbos themselves dont seem to be very expensive, but pre fabbed parts sure do.

I just dont have the time to make it myself, or even know enough about it.

From what i know so far, there has to be a way to enrichen the fuel, and retard the timing.

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ntsqd

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The low buck enrichment method is to use a PWM on a Bosch cold start injector off of something European in the JY's. Set the pulse width with a resistor, could even use a pot to tune it from the dash. Turn the system on with a pressure switch set at X boost. Crude, somewhat effective, and cheap.
From there you can find more sophisticated systems that do the same thing, also outside of the stock ECU' knowledge. I'll bet HKS makes or made something like this.

TS

"It only seems kinky the first time"
-- Bumpersticker seen in Lost Wages
 
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geoff

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HKS makes a thing called a VPC (vein pressure converter) which allows you to get rid of the MAF and replace it with a map sensor and program the fuel points acocrding to vacuum/boost. However the 22r efi is pretty crappy and the MAF uses a bizarre voltage range, making it completely different from every other ecu out there basically... SOL on that one. thats why you need to switch over to a standalone if you want to push more than 200 hp

"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams." -- Willy Wonka
 
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