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Changing Transfer case


Well-Known Member
Well today, some fellow have tell me that he can give for free a 1354 Electric Transfer, and my truck its a 86 ex 5 speed now a c4 with a manual 1350. My real use off this truck its too Pre run and Chase on CODE's race here on Mexicali Baja, its primary sand and desert (High Speed) soo i have a bit of problem too slow completele too engage the 4x4. Do you think i have a real diference with the electric transfer. Next weekend Im going too put the Ford 9 inch, still stock D28 on front.

Mexican PreRunner


I've heard of quite a few Ranger owners that have problems with the electronic 4x4 engaging. My roommate had problems with his out at Glamis... it finally engaged on its own. With the manual version you don't have to worry about a switch or solenoid taking a dump or not working when you need it. If the electrics actually die you have to get under there and pop the solenoid off and engage it by hand... so it won't totally screw you but it could be a big pain in the arse.

I can see where the benefit of just pushing the button to engage 4wd would be nice... but it doesn't always engage instantaneously... Sometimes up to 10 seconds at 45-50mph. The recommended speed for the electo 1354 is no faster than 45mph. It'll engage at faster speeds but I doubt it's too good for it. I can shift my manually actuated Dodge Ramcharger into 4x4 at 65mph on the highway without any problems... and for as little as I've driven my Bronco with the manually actuated transfer case, it doesn't seem to mind me shifting into 4-hi from 2-hi at 50mph. Problems occur though when the front end is turning slower than the rear end and you engage it... that unequal speed causes a mismatch in the transfer case. I think you'll have that problem with both the manual and electric versions.

Manual = KISS = Keep It Simple Stupid

I just got the latest issue of Four Wheeler and they have the same problem with the brand new 2002 Ford Explorer they tested. They said it wouldnt go into 4low when they pushed it and then it would just go in and sometimes not come out.

Go Big Or Go Home


Well-Known Member
I have the electric shift t-case on my truck now and i had the manual on my old '85 ranger. I liked the manual better because it never gave me any problems. With the electric t-case, i had a bad situation at glamis when it really didn't want to go into 4-lo, but after about 10 mins. it finally did. So the manual imo is better, but if you need a new t-case and that one's free id say go for it.
P.S.- is my pic working?


Well-Known Member
I have a 93 ranger 4x and with the electronic transfer case, and it worked pretty well until for some reason I was unable to engage 4wheel drive. It wouldn't work for about 3 days, and now it works fine again, so I don't really know what's going on. Also what somebody said about the front tires turning slower than the rear, my transfer case will actually prespin the driveshaft to get it spinning at the same rate as the rear prior to engaging it. It will still hit it pretty hard if you hit the button when your back tires are spinning and the fronts are going no where.


Well-Known Member
I have a 98 ranger with the electric t-case. The auto locking hubs suck, sometimes they work sometimes they don't. Who has info on the hub kit that replaces the auto locking hubs? What does it cost? How hard is it to install? I was at an MDR race in lucerne last year and I had to go get a buddy that got his truck stuck in the silt out by the dry lake bed. While we were digging him out I got stuck because my pinche` four wheel drive wouldn't engage. We had to spend the night out there then dig my truck out in the morning followed by digging his truck out. Man I was glad to get home that weekend!
I paid around $75 for Mile Marker manual hubs and I think around $30 for the new bolt (install kit) to replace my autohubs. The internals on the auto hubs are plastic, they are metal in the mauals. I have not installed them yet so I dont know what all is involved. I bought them at ORW, You can get there buy clicking on the banner at the top of the page..


Well-Known Member
I put a set of warn hubs in my 93, and besides the electronic problem that I've had, the hubs work great. I think between 100-150 for them, and they give a real positive lock. Just a side question, if I lock my hubs in, and drive on the street, will it tear up my tires?

Motorider, Yes driving in 4wd on the street will wear your tires faster but it will make the thing corner bitchin. When I broke my hub the bronco was stuck in 4wd and I had to drive it home that way from Lucerne besides being loud, I could tell the tires were getting a lot of abuse up front because the edges of them were used and they barely touch the ground.


Well-Known Member
With manual locking hubs, run with them locked and you can use the manual shift transfer case
from 2h to 4h at most any speed by lifting the throttle then shifting. It's a fast shift and always
reliable. Stay away from the electric boxes if you want to trust the 4wd to always be there.
Also, the more you shift those BW transfer cases the smoother shifting they become.


Well-Known Member
All this talk has me wondering (uh oh). I have an NP 241 in my fullsize chevy. I have NEVER been able to shift on the fly. I have always had to stop. put it in park, shift it to 4h, and then go. It now has 160k on it, and I am looking to rebuild, or replace, but is there a kit that will make it a full shift on the fly case? I also plan to buy another chevy soon, but not past 97, because everything past that is electronic. Thanks.


Build it like a Rhino, and Leave it be.