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Chenowth 1000 3 link Restore


Well-Known Member
So after some surgery I had done, I am back at it this week finishing taking the car apart. Started ordering parts from Kartek today. Kits to rebuild the original Brake masters, another gas pedal, and new Clutch master/pedal assy, new steering universals and some other minor replacement parts. Completed my rendering of the new Fuel Safe cell since it will have to be a custom one off to fit the existing framework.

Before removing the engine, trans and front beam. I wanted to take a closer look at the rear 3 link and start measuring up stuff. We pulled all the link arms to measure for replacing the bushings with better joints. All of the original bushings had disinegrated. The links are being cleaned up so I can powder coat them.

After the links were pulled measured and inspected I pulled the torsion bars and the 3 link arms off. The bars were 26mm. Both arms were in great condition except for one area that was a little bit of a surprise for me to find. The rear setup measured out to 11 5/8" in of travel without the bump stop, which more or less jives with the 12" I was expecting. The surprise was that the rear shocks were actually not setup the way I would have and the rear ones were stopping the down travel Before hitting the hard stop. I thought that the lower shock mounts were put on by Chenowth, but now I believe it was from another source as it was too far off and they probably were losing the rear shocks at some point. You could see the damage on the lower mount.

I removed the lower hard stop on the torsion and could see it was not effective in preventing the shocks from over extending. We have figured out a way to squeeze a little more travel and protect the shocks at the same time. It will not require any upper mount welding but will require a new lower mount. After looking at the geometry I believe I can get 14" without too much trouble. I am not wanting to mod too much from the original design so that is what is going to limit me getting more. I have to stay focused on not drifting too far from it's original setup. The fun part is using different methods to gain that little bit more. If I want to make big changes from the way it had raced I know there is a lot more travel that can be had, but at that point I would be changing the front travel also to be effective and I am not willing to make those types of changes.

The car has T2 CV's that had been prepped correctly, but had some higher quality newer stub axles in it that were of the mid 90's era I believe, just no markings but obvious quality. So it's T2 as is, modified T4 which I have 4 sets of, or 930. The obvious is 930 but maybe that is not veering too far off from OE.Chen 1000 C.jpgchen 1000 dec A.jpg78641709_3688414004564785_2116280543090835456_n.jpg78246776_3688413977898121_6669614521654444032_n.jpg