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Class 10 clutch question

#1
I'm about to replace the clutch in my class 10. Running a DI Ecotec w/ Mendy 2D. The clutch that came in the car is a stage 3, 6-puck, single disc. Curious to hear what other people are running. Should I stick to the single disc? Move to a dual disc?
 
#4
I use the Kennedy stage 3, 6 puck myself. Never failed me yet. Curious how many races do you run on your clutches or how far ?
That's what I've got in there now. Only got the car a few months ago. First race (Cholla 250) I burned the clutch up 80 miles in. Will probably try to do 6 races a year.
 

drofmij

Well-Known Member
#6
I tried the dual disk as I had heard of guys breaking out the center of the single disk. Well the dual 8” disc clutch doesn’t have hardened centers. So I broke a disc. I am back to a single 9”


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SMS81

Well-Known Member
#7
That transmission should go before the clutch! Something was not set up correctly or stop resting your foot on the pedal.
 

racetrash

Well-Known Member
#11
I always check the numbers between the disc surface and pressure plate surface...local shop I work with up here does it (RamcoRacing)
 
#13
If the clutch is engaging at the bottom of the pedal travel and not towards the middle to top of the travel it is probably not disengaging all the way. This might explain the short life. An improperly set up clutch will trash thrust bearings in an engine as well as tear up a transmission.
 
#14
Found the issue. I replaced the clutch with another Kennedy stage 3. Went to test it, and while I had it in first with clutch pedal in, it acted as if I had let the clutch out, and immediately after, the clutch pedal was limp. Zero resistance. Restarted and it did the same thing. Opened up the reservoir and I couldn't even identify what the fluid was in there. Chunks of rubber floating around as well. So I rebuilt the master cylinder, replaced the slave, and flushed out the entire system. Works great now! Maybe I'll look into this "race prep" everyone's always talking about...:D
 
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