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Class 12 /1100/ SCORE Lites ONLY Thread

joe1369

Well-Known Member
#21
Seem that the arms issue is all in the heat treating, Foddril has that dialled, there are some bigger dollar arms than Foddril, don't remember the name, saw them at Mckenzies. The new trend seems longer box style arms, I am sure as all rules happen, they will be refined to say, "arm must insert inside or beam, as stock arm does" Just my opinion.

6" longer seems to be the geometric max to longer arms, and the spindles available, stop U from running a 35" tall tire up front, so gett ing max travel #s of 18" is great for sand guys, but in race tracks with 3 foot holes averywhere, 6-8" at full compression of your suspension is much better than getting 3" more travel with a broken back!

Thanks for starting, I got topics/questions for the 12 crowd. Wondering if anyone makes their own arms? I have yet to break an trailing arm but know it's probably going to happen and don't really want to spend the money they want for woods or foddrill arms when I do.

I am also planning on building a 2110 for next season and maybe cutting up the trailing arms/back end a bit.
 

frostbite36

Capt. Hindsight
#22
Seem that the arms issue is all in the heat treating, Foddril has that dialled, there are some bigger dollar arms than Foddril, don't remember the name, saw them at Mckenzies. The new trend seems longer box style arms, I am sure as all rules happen, they will be refined to say, "arm must insert inside or beam, as stock arm does"
We are running the Foddrill King-kong spindle arms with lower arm mounted 2.5' x 10" King shocks. Box-style arms don't appear to be legal in class-12, but appear to be legal in 5U with different wording in the class rules. There has been a good bit of heated debate about the appearance of the box-style front arms in class-5U.

If someone has the time to pull the up-to-date "front arms rules" quoted from BITD, SCORE, and SNORE...that would be awesome! Thanks!!
 

frostbite36

Capt. Hindsight
#23
How about some good class-12 action pics??
 

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mexracer10

Well-Known Member
#25
I have made my own front arms and decided not to heat treat them as they were my first set, and some what experimental and I wanted to see how they were going to perform on the my 12 car. Up until now they have 2 complete races; 400 total race miles, and about another 200 miles in testing and prerunning, and so far so good. I know once there is an issue of cracking i will make another set and have those heat treated, if I am happy with the final design of the arm.
 

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RYAN COHEE

Well-Known Member
#27
Be nice to keep the class air cooled as well...Low compression 2110 engines are running strong with the big heads..
 

hotdogwater

Well-Known Member
#28
What front tires are you running? Need some other options as the Yokos are too $$$ and others seem too heavy. Shaved BFG?

Also see a lot more non-beadlock front rims. I'm guessing the weight savings helps keep the suspension together longer?

I am happy with the BFG ATs in the back, what is everyone running for tires up front?
View attachment start.jpg
 

frostbite36

Capt. Hindsight
#29
What front tires are you running? Need some other options as the Yokos are too $$$ and others seem too heavy. Shaved BFG?

Also see a lot more non-beadlock front rims. I'm guessing the weight savings helps keep the suspension together longer?

I am happy with the BFG ATs in the back, what is everyone running for tires up front?
View attachment 122542
Yoko Super Digger III rears kinda suck, rubber-wise. They wear out fast (soft rubber equals grip though, but fast-wearing)...they are light weight though (good for a limted engine class), which I have noticed causes a lot of punctures. I have no experience with Yoko fronts. I have used them (Yoko) a lot in the past and wouldn't run them unless I was given new sets every race for free...and even then, probably not.

Mickey Thompson Baja Pros are my favorite rears. They are super long-wearing and more puncture resistant then Yokos because they have thicker casings...but do weight more, which is a negative thing in some respects. I also have had lots of success with MT fronts as well. They are pretty pricey if you need to pay retail for them. The MT rep (Elwin) has been good to us after building a good working relationship after a couple of years and I'm sure he will hook up any team for less than retail. He often delivers tires to us at Las Vegas Motor Speedway for free when they are covering drag race or road events there...convienient for us.

Inexpensive fronts (good for dry conditions) can be had in Heavy duty trailer tires.
I have used these tires at Tire-easy.com (1-877-253-6191) for $90 each, retail. They are super HD and my favorite trailer-style front tire...
3 x 7.00 -15 10PR BSW (GAN), Akuret, Cargo Highway
http://www.tires-easy.com

I have also used Carlisle SURE TRAIL 7.00-15 D/8PR with good success.
 

frostbite36

Capt. Hindsight
#30
Be nice to keep the class air cooled as well...Low compression 2110 engines are running strong with the big heads..
I don't think anyone who seriously considers or races the class is seriously considering anything but air-cooled now that the 2120/2020cc options are here. It just stinks to high-heaven that BITD is stone-walling the acceptance of the new engine option rule. I guess I need to get back on the phone with Casey F. and plea some more on our behalf if I want to go race at BITD...which we do! V2R is on our bucket list, but I'm not gonna build a whole different motor to do it...unless I huck an ECOTEC in her and race class-10 for one race.
 

frostbite36

Capt. Hindsight
#31
Just a reminder about Class-12 prize money (so far) up for grabs at the SNORE "94.5 FM/ SNORE 250" scheduled for two days racing 20-21 OCT. Did I mention the thrill and fun of the Dike jump, or was that Dyke jump??

BTW, SNORE is "new engine option" friendly...screw BITD if they don't want to let us play with everyone else's rules....

Of course, this is all in addition to the normal payouts...


SNORE will pay at this event $1000 bonus to the winner of every PRO class that has 10 vehicles that start in their class addition to the bonus' listed below and regular SNORE payback



Kartek BONUS CLASS:
Class 12

1st Place: $1500 Kartek Cash

2nd Place: $750 Kartek Cash

3rd Place: $250 Kartek Cash


Butches Speed Shop Bonus:
Class 12

1st Place: $900 Gift Certificate

"Ladies and Gentlemen...start your engines!"
 

A Vance

Well-Known Member
#32
Seem that the arms issue is all in the heat treating, Foddril has that dialled, there are some bigger dollar arms than Foddril, don't remember the name, saw them at Mckenzies. The new trend seems longer box style arms, I am sure as all rules happen, they will be refined to say, "arm must insert inside or beam, as stock arm does" Just my opinion.

6" longer seems to be the geometric max to longer arms, and the spindles available, stop U from running a 35" tall tire up front, so gett ing max travel #s of 18" is great for sand guys, but in race tracks with 3 foot holes averywhere, 6-8" at full compression of your suspension is much better than getting 3" more travel with a broken back!

I don't think ford ill even heat treats their arms. I was a heat treated for years and took an old set to get tested. Now I see why the 1600 guys have issues. I did a set that has worked for two years now. But the heat treat process I got is top secret
 
#35
My dad and I are Hammer Down Racing. We raced a Lothringer 1600 with SNORE for a few seasons then sent the car back to Kent to be reworked into a 12 car. We have one race and a few hundred test miles but we really like the car and the class. We are running a non plenum 1835 and it seems to do pretty well.
 

frostbite36

Capt. Hindsight
#36
Does anyone know what happened to the Brady Wisdom "12" buggy at the Midnight/Cookoff race? He was smoking everyone for one lap and then I saw a DNF... He was on pace to finish 2nd overall if he had been able to maintain that pace...AMAZING!

Also, I'm attaching some pics from my re-engineering of my rear-upper shock mounts...I need to decide whether to place 4" gussets on the inside-lower corners (both lower corners)of the inner 1 1/2" tubing with the thru-bungs, which serve as the inner shock bolt-mounts...recommendations? I'm pretty sure I'm going to do this at this point.

Most 1/2-1600 cars who use a similar arrangement do not gusset, but they are not bottomming here as the spring-plate serves to absorb that shock...this arrangement gets the load fully on the upper shock mounts on bottom-out if I do not install a bump plate/urethane-bump/hydrolic-bump else-where... As we all know, over-engineering costs weight and I wasn't planning on installing a bump-mechanism at this time.

Rear Fab-3.jpg Rear Fab-2.jpg
 

RYAN COHEE

Well-Known Member
#37
Does anyone know what happened to the Brady Wisdom "12" buggy at the Midnight/Cookoff race? He was smoking everyone for one lap and then I saw a DNF... He was on pace to finish 2nd overall if he had been able to maintain that pace...AMAZING!

Also, I'm attaching some pics from my re-engineering of my rear-upper shock mounts...I need to decide whether to place 4" gussets on the inside-lower corners (both lower corners)of the inner 1 1/2" tubing with the thru-bungs, which serve as the inner shock bolt-mounts...recommendations? I'm pretty sure I'm going to do this at this point.

Most 1/2-1600 cars who use a similar arrangement do not gusset, but they are not bottomming here as the spring-plate serves to absorb that shock...this arrangement gets the load fully on the upper shock mounts on bottom-out if I do not install a bump plate/urethane-bump/hydrolic-bump else-where... As we all know, over-engineering costs weight and I wasn't planning on installing a bump-mechanism at this time.

View attachment 122560 View attachment 122561
Broken cv.
 

frostbite36

Capt. Hindsight
#40
Brady broke a axle at rm 15-16 on his second lap.
Wow...Axle not CV? He was driving it like he stole it!! Does anyone know off-hand if he runs 934 or 930 CVs. That thing is articulated down like crazy...serious ground clearance...even with those little tires he runs.
 
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