Class 5 only

Bro_Gill

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Maybe they should do a prerun class like SNORE has done at some events? I get it, you guys were not racing, but if it continues like that, someone IS going to race a modern car in that class and bitch when they win and get protested. Like having a fully independent suspension LS powered Falcon Ranchero or an A-armed V8 powered Class 1 car with a widened VW body on it and calling it a vintage race car. Both have happened at other events and people were upset when the rules enforcer said No Go.
 

matt64

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For sure test the car with as many people as you normally drive with. Your set up will work good with either 2 people or 4 people but not both.
One more question. What should my droop be front and back? I have read 10,20,30% etc. and can i measure the droop from the shock shaft? So say its 30% 10 inches divided by .30 equals 3”. So my front shocks should be sitting at 7” of the shafy showing. 14” bypass x .30 equals 4.2” so shock shaft at 9.2”? Thanks for any help. Just an fyi front arms are the 4 inch longer with just a 10” coilove and rear are 4x5 (wider) arms with coilover 12” and bypass 14” thanks for any help
 

Bro_Gill

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Any use of percentages to determine droop have to be based on actual total shock shaft travel, not what's available on the shock. And droop is also based on how much total travel you have. If you only have 10 inches of travel, you droop will be much less than if you have 24 inches of travel. Drive the car, change amounts and see where YOU like it, Everyone likes it a little different.
 

btshannon

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We talked to a few of the vintage racers in the class. I thought it was going to be an issue. None of them cared and 5 minutes later they 1 team was borrowing our crew chiefs generator to do some last minute welds on their race car.

I get that it was iffy. We were not going to finish the race. We would have had to pass our pit prior to finishing which we would have simply stopped and shut it down in our pit right before the finish line had we made it the 2 laps.

Thanks for all the kind words for the grinch. The car has come a long way. It’s an amazing car to drive now. I used to read about George seeley, the James gang, Hernquist, Grabowski’s and others and dream about racing/having a 5 car like them.
That is the way it should be done. If you are not in it for a win (testing, pre-running, etc.), you should park it before the checkered flag.
 

swiftracing5

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I wasn't going to chime on tuning but my former employment gets the best of me sometimes so here it goes.

Ride height/what you are asking about is not too complicated, bro is on the right track too. Different strokes for different folks, pun intended.

I know nothing about your geometry in terms of knowing that your bypasses are fully cycling in the front from bump to top out, and that your rears are strapped at for the maximum CV angle. Most race cars now are darn near perfect on this front, so the next step will be setting ride height. This is why its difficult to go off of shaft measurements, easier to go off of chassis to ground measurements, with fuel and cooler in the car. If I read it correctly you have 10" in front, so you should have no problem stroking those fully, and 14" bypasses in the rear which is normal unless the shocks are really choked up on the arm. I am going to assume you are pretty close to being "happy" on cycling.

The 2 points you want to measure are the lower beam tube and the skid plate between your 2 CVs. Due to how rough the course are, race cars are set up with about 18-19" under the beam, and 16-17" under the skid plate. If it is a play car or a camp commuter, you can probably drop it down 1-2" from those measurements, this will help with cornering as it lowers the car, but I guarantee will scrape in the rough.
 

matt64

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I wasn't going to chime on tuning but my former employment gets the best of me sometimes so here it goes.

Ride height/what you are asking about is not too complicated, bro is on the right track too. Different strokes for different folks, pun intended.

I know nothing about your geometry in terms of knowing that your bypasses are fully cycling in the front from bump to top out, and that your rears are strapped at for the maximum CV angle. Most race cars now are darn near perfect on this front, so the next step will be setting ride height. This is why its difficult to go off of shaft measurements, easier to go off of chassis to ground measurements, with fuel and cooler in the car. If I read it correctly you have 10" in front, so you should have no problem stroking those fully, and 14" bypasses in the rear which is normal unless the shocks are really choked up on the arm. I am going to assume you are pretty close to being "happy" on cycling.

The 2 points you want to measure are the lower beam tube and the skid plate between your 2 CVs. Due to how rough the course are, race cars are set up with about 18-19" under the beam, and 16-17" under the skid plate. If it is a play car or a camp commuter, you can probably drop it down 1-2" from those measurements, this will help with cornering as it lowers the car, but I guarantee will scrape in the rough.
Ok so i am at 18” on bottom of front beam and 18” to bottom of skid plate. So i should lower rear 1” and I an good? Here are pics of rear shocks how it sits
 

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swiftracing5

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Measure the lowest part of the year, usually that’s between the axles. If it’s still 18 then yes I’d lower it
 

dhjeepgeek

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So it is some crazy times we are in. Having to spend time at home. So I am doing some little projects on my buggy. Right after I paint the bedroom. My wife is home too.
I am thinking about some bars on the front end. The Shocks are so exposed on the front, I always worry about taking them out on something. Not that I ever miss a corner and take out some sticking Creosote or cactus. I am thinking some thin wall tubing to protect the bypass shocks. Make the top mount in double sheer too. I weighed the steel. total 7.5 lbs would be added to the front. I have already removed or redistributed more weight from the front. Anyone else doing something interesting to their buggy.
 

turbodon

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Tires.

What's the consensus on the most favorable tires right now?

I've been on the BFG 35x10.50 for a couple years and like them.

Last weekend I went testing on a set of Tensors (also 35x10.50) To me they felt like they hooked up so good that it almost bogged the engine down. (Ecotec 2.5DI) Looks wise, they are a much wider tire (almost 2.5 inches wider comparing the BFG vs Tensor.)

They look big & bulky... I thought they'd be heavier for sure. To my surprise I weighed them out, and the Tensor was a full 2lbs lighter than the BFG. I felt like they steered heavier, but couldn't give an apple-for-apples comparison due to changing Steering servo types since last test :/

It seems the only guys running the TriAce are the guys sponsored/ getting them for free/ getting paid to run them? I had an opportunity to buy 8 for an extremely good buy from a class 10 team, and a credible person straight up said Don't run them. "They're no good for Ecotecs"

Not sure what a new Tensor runs, but I think the BFG is $330, the TriAce $220, The Tensor online looks about $399 not sure racer price

Either way, It seems a good take-off regardless of brand is about 150 for a nice one, 100 for a well tested one. The Tensor seems easier to find used now since so many have transitioned.
 

Fourstroker

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Tires.

What's the consensus on the most favorable tires right now?

I've been on the BFG 35x10.50 for a couple years and like them.

Last weekend I went testing on a set of Tensors (also 35x10.50) To me they felt like they hooked up so good that it almost bogged the engine down. (Ecotec 2.5DI) Looks wise, they are a much wider tire (almost 2.5 inches wider comparing the BFG vs Tensor.)

They look big & bulky... I thought they'd be heavier for sure. To my surprise I weighed them out, and the Tensor was a full 2lbs lighter than the BFG. I felt like they steered heavier, but couldn't give an apple-for-apples comparison due to changing Steering servo types since last test :/

It seems the only guys running the TriAce are the guys sponsored/ getting them for free/ getting paid to run them? I had an opportunity to buy 8 for an extremely good buy from a class 10 team, and a credible person straight up said Don't run them. "They're no good for Ecotecs"

Not sure what a new Tensor runs, but I think the BFG is $330, the TriAce $220, The Tensor online looks about $399 not sure racer price

Either way, It seems a good take-off regardless of brand is about 150 for a nice one, 100 for a well tested one. The Tensor seems easier to find used now since so many have transitioned.

My opinion. The Tensor steers heavier because it is wider and has a more square edge at the top of the tire. It compares in size to the newer BFG KR3 which is actually a 35x11.50. The closed tread pattern makes them grab hard and float more in the washes. Both are great tires and depending on your brand or choice you could succeed with either.

The Tensors are slightly less than the BFG if you are on the racer program or a dealer. The $330 for the BFG is racer pricing shipped to your house. More for non-racers(loose term)
 

Zac Reish

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Tensors wear faster but the side walls can take a beating where you can’t bash them. Tri Ace are out of business tires are heavy but very tough and will last a long time. If it was a play car I’d run the tri Ave because they would last forever. They will be hard on your trans. Don’t run them up front.

I like the new big bfg’s but have not ran them. The cost of tires is just plain discouraging. I have some beat tensor take offs you can have. They hold air but are pretty much down to the belts of the tire in some spots. Perfect for playing.
 

bhernquist

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Tires.

What's the consensus on the most favorable tires right now?

I've been on the BFG 35x10.50 for a couple years and like them.

Last weekend I went testing on a set of Tensors (also 35x10.50) To me they felt like they hooked up so good that it almost bogged the engine down. (Ecotec 2.5DI) Looks wise, they are a much wider tire (almost 2.5 inches wider comparing the BFG vs Tensor.)

They look big & bulky... I thought they'd be heavier for sure. To my surprise I weighed them out, and the Tensor was a full 2lbs lighter than the BFG. I felt like they steered heavier, but couldn't give an apple-for-apples comparison due to changing Steering servo types since last test :/

It seems the only guys running the TriAce are the guys sponsored/ getting them for free/ getting paid to run them? I had an opportunity to buy 8 for an extremely good buy from a class 10 team, and a credible person straight up said Don't run them. "They're no good for Ecotecs"

Not sure what a new Tensor runs, but I think the BFG is $330, the TriAce $220, The Tensor online looks about $399 not sure racer price

Either way, It seems a good take-off regardless of brand is about 150 for a nice one, 100 for a well tested one. The Tensor seems easier to find used now since so many have transitioned.
You may want to try the General X3s. They are a great tire - both hard pack and sand - corners well and durable as hell. They have 35 x 12.50s (Chase ran those for a few years until he had to go to BFG for the 6100 truck) and 33x10.50s. We run the 33 x10.50 on a Method 15x6 Beadlock. We also run them on Method 15 x4 non-beadlocks and they are about 34" tall. I don't see any disadvantage to running them compared to the 35 BFGs/Tensors etc.. The advantage is the price and durability. If you want to try a set to try or compare, let me know and we'll loan you a set.
 
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swiftracing5

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I have raced on all platforms, mixed results but I am an unfinished product. Can't vouch for the generals though, I do know Travis just jumped ship though. Keep in mind I am a hack and am finally starting to figure out saving tires.

My opinion, BFG 10.50s are probably the best all around PLAY tire but I have heard that JMG will not sell them anymore so they are going to the reseller market only now. The other side of that coin, they are the "least favorable" race tire, by a lot. A very vulnerable side wall, a very flexible side wall, I have felt out of control with those tires plenty of times. They do not grab an edge in sand washes and they will walk on you. All of my 4 flats with these tires were ghost flats. With that said, Zac has made them work but he has jumped ship since then...

Tri Ace, my favorite tire in the rear BY FAR. No ghost flats, great traction, made it 808 miles at the Baja 1000 with no issue and enough tread for another 300 miles. Yes, they are heavy, about 15 lbs heavier than the competition, but I haven't tried tensor in the rear to know if my trans and CVs are worse for wear. I will say no broken axle parts, one big trans bill but Folts swears it is driver error... Had one front king kong spindle crack with Triace in the front but was after 1000 race miles.

Tensor in the rear is a great tire, but like Zac said it is 300 mile race tire, they are soft but GREAT traction and the side wall ribs are amazing. I got one flat with these in Dereks car but I deserved it. Tensor in the front is unparalleled, traction, wear, weight savings, it is honestly a no brainer for me now, will never go back to anything else unless BFG makes a come back with a square edge tire with some side wall ribs.

I was always a paying customer for tri ace even after they wanted my commitment to SCORE and we won all you can win on them. I have now heard they will cease production so I have 2 new tires I am hoarding. I will use them in the rear at the next race and tensor up front. My last effort before going tensor all around will be try the BFG 11.50 in the rear. I cannot afford nor justify 300 miles on a race tire, so I would like to at least comfortably get 500 out of rear tires.

I have take offs of tensors and tri ace, anyone is welcome to grab them, all are on 5.5 methods.
 

bhernquist

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I have raced on all platforms, mixed results but I am an unfinished product. Can't vouch for the generals though, I do know Travis just jumped ship though. Keep in mind I am a hack and am finally starting to figure out saving tires.

My opinion, BFG 10.50s are probably the best all around PLAY tire but I have heard that JMG will not sell them anymore so they are going to the reseller market only now. The other side of that coin, they are the "least favorable" race tire, by a lot. A very vulnerable side wall, a very flexible side wall, I have felt out of control with those tires plenty of times. They do not grab an edge in sand washes and they will walk on you. All of my 4 flats with these tires were ghost flats. With that said, Zac has made them work but he has jumped ship since then...

Tri Ace, my favorite tire in the rear BY FAR. No ghost flats, great traction, made it 808 miles at the Baja 1000 with no issue and enough tread for another 300 miles. Yes, they are heavy, about 15 lbs heavier than the competition, but I haven't tried tensor in the rear to know if my trans and CVs are worse for wear. I will say no broken axle parts, one big trans bill but Folts swears it is driver error... Had one front king kong spindle crack with Triace in the front but was after 1000 race miles.

Tensor in the rear is a great tire, but like Zac said it is 300 mile race tire, they are soft but GREAT traction and the side wall ribs are amazing. I got one flat with these in Dereks car but I deserved it. Tensor in the front is unparalleled, traction, wear, weight savings, it is honestly a no brainer for me now, will never go back to anything else unless BFG makes a come back with a square edge tire with some side wall ribs.

I was always a paying customer for tri ace even after they wanted my commitment to SCORE and we won all you can win on them. I have now heard they will cease production so I have 2 new tires I am hoarding. I will use them in the rear at the next race and tensor up front. My last effort before going tensor all around will be try the BFG 11.50 in the rear. I cannot afford nor justify 300 miles on a race tire, so I would like to at least comfortably get 500 out of rear tires.

I have take offs of tensors and tri ace, anyone is welcome to grab them, all are on 5.5 methods.
Travis "jumped ship" to BFG only because General does not make a 39" or 40" tire for his 6100. I think Travis won at least 2 championships in Class 5 and many more races on Generals. You or any other Class 5 team that wants to try them, let us know.
 
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swiftracing5

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Travis "jumped ship" to BFG only because General does not make a 39" or 40" tire for his 6100. I think Travis won at least 2 championships in Class 5 and many more races on Generals. Don't discount the Generals nor downplay Travis' impressive victories on these tires until you try them. I'll let you borrow a set too.
Ah yea that makes sense. I would be curious how the 12.50s would clear up front, with my current rims they all hit the thru rods so it must be a different offset on your car?

I think rears would clear fine. Any idea what they would cost to Joe Racer?
 

bhernquist

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Ah yea that makes sense. I would be curious how the 12.50s would clear up front, with my current rims they all hit the thru rods so it must be a different offset on your car?

I think rears would clear fine. Any idea what they would cost to Joe Racer?
Not sure of the clearance issue up front. We run the same arms, spindles, hubs, etc... no issues. Also, with a 2.4DI the 33x10.50 on a 5.5 or 4" wheel is over 34" tall and more than enough tire IMO and easy on transmissions. (My old car has NORRA, prerunning etc.. 2000 miles on an MD4 with no issues) I think the Racer Program price for the 33s is 175$, the 35s are about 185$. They have a good contingency program in BITD too.
 
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