Class 7s Ranger

J_Dog

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I found a 7s Ranger and was wondering if it sounded like a good deal. Its a 84 Ford Ranger (2wd), 2.8 V6, Offenhauser Intake, Holley carb, RV style cam, C4 transmission(manual valve body and Cheetah shifter), 8.8 inch rearend from a 95 Mustang (disk brakes), 4.56 gear w/ mini spool, 2 Beard seats. Its caged gront to rear and runs 31x10.50 BFG Baja T/A's, King 2.5 bypass shocks on each corner (I think they are the prerunner style, not full race). Also, it comes with a double axle flatbed trailer and an 84 or 85 Ford Ranger 4x4 (for parts or possible chase vehicle), one race suit and helmet, spare tires and parts. The truck does not have fiberglass fenders, just metal cut a little bigger. The guy wants $8,000 for the package and sounds a little negotiable. What does everyone think? Is that rearend a good one to have? Any advice would help. Just trying to get started and I will most likely begin in VORRA and possibly a BITD or MDR race or two for the first year or two. Thanks.

Jeff Matlock

 

JasonHutter

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I would say the price is very reasonable. I would ask the guy if the truck has a proven record. Have him tell you over-all how the truck handles. How many test/race miles does it have. Look over the whole cage and frame for cracks/bends. Ask if you can drive it first. Just to name a few things.

Jason
 

Tyson

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ANd I'm not a Ford guy, but I have heard that the 8.8" rear ends aren't very strong. Though the truck sounds pretty cool, if I were to buy it, I'd sell that rear end and buy a 9" and then get new 2001 Ranger glass for it. Just my .02 - keep in mind I drive a Toyota and know little to none about Fords


 

JasonHutter

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I'm not exactly a Ford guy either, but we run a Ford 9" for their durability in our Toyota race truck. I don't know much about the 8.8's though.

Jason
 

jeff

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The Ford 8.8 isn't that bad of a rear end in terms of the ability to handle horsepower and torque. The problem is if you want to weld to the center section your out of luck - welding to a cast center housing is no bueno. Currie and others make all sorts of good stuff for the 8.8.

Aloha
 

martininsocal

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jeff- the first thing is make sure the cage is quality. if the cage is built properly(tied diectly to frame, not some cheesy brackets attached to doubler plates in the floor) and the pick-up points are placed wheer they should be, the rest of the parts are fine. some things to look for- are the rivets gone and replaced with grade 8 hardware? how old is the fuelcell? is the rear re-geared? as for the 8.8- there are plenty of parts to make it stronger, and you can get a quality diff cover that will incorporate the proper mounts for setting up some rear trussing. you just haveto look in the right places(ford). try to get some history on the truck, ever raced, etc...also- is the truck built to current SCORE rules? or is it the vorra mini-truck class? the closer you are to score, the easier it is to race elsewhere.

martin

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scott

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Sounds good to me, just make sure all the safety features are in it so you can race... Look it over good, Good Luck... PS -- I have an 8.8 in an F-150 with a 351, 4:88 gearing turning 37's and it held up pretty good...
 

V8Ranger

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What's wrong with the rivets? Yeah, they can't take as much stress as a grade eight bolt but has anyone ever had trouble with them? I think I'd tend to be a little worried about bolts rattling loose rather than shearing all of those rivet's since Ford likes to put them everywhere.
 

Greg

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The 8.8 have really good r&p but the axles are 28 spline and the axle tubes WILL pull out of the center section. Moser makes a good 31 spline conversion and c-clip eliminator and gussetting the tubes will keep the rear together. But your driving style will determine how any part holds up. Seems the 9" is the easy uprade but buy something good as there are plenty of lame 9"ers out there. Also, just a thought, everyone runs c-4's, what about going with a top loader? anyone?

Greg
 

J_Dog

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Thanks everyone, some really good info. My friend and I are going this weekend to check it out a little closer and test drive it. The trucks been raced for about three years and has a decent record of finishing. The rear is gusseted/trussed underneath. Does anyone know if Moser has a web site or phone number/address?

Martin - I think it has doubler plates. Are they that bad? I know there not as good as going to the frame.

 

martininsocal

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jeff-doubler plates don't do anything for strength in a rollover. i know noone wants to think about it, but the cage is there for safety first. doubler plates will allow the cage to move in avertical plane. if it moves enough, not only will the truck be ruined, but so may your head. the doubler is no stronger than the sheet metal it goes around.



If your gonna go, go BIG
 

J_Dog

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The doubler plates on the truck are like large L-brackets and are tied to the frame, also. I would suspect this would be much stronger than a typical street/trail driven 4x4 with just doubler plates not tied into the frame.

 

martininsocal

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jeff- that is the cheap way to tie it to the frame. think of the leverage pushing down on the l-bracket and where the acge goes in a rollover. a better fix would be to run diagnals from up the legs of the cage to the frame, the more vertical the better.

martin

If your gonna go, go BIG
 

Marshall

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Greg,
The reason most go with the C4 is it was at one time produced on a ranger thus making it 7s legal. The Auto gives a bit of slip between the driveline and motor and is easer on parts. Its down fall is Heat, and everyone knows heat kills. The problem with 5 speeds is the out put shaft breaks or the clutch explodes. I have some friends putting a 5 speed in their truck and they think they have got it dailed, I let you know after the next BITD if it works. They run a 8.8 in there stock mini but its out of a truck with 31 spline and havent had a problem. I think mustang rearends are 28 spline?
 

Greg

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I understand about the stock 5 speeds (as im on # 3 personally) but a top-loader (4 sp) from the old musclecar days. The guy next door to our shop runs them in his vintage road race cars w/ 500+ hp, seems good enough for a 200 hp truck, even with the shock loads. Just that those autos milk soo much power and most aluminum cased manuals are pretty weak. I know they run them in the older pro-lites in corr. After i break the next trans i might just try it.

Greg
 

Marshall

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Greg,
The SCORE rule book states: " Any tranmission may be used provided it is listed and delivered by the manufacturer" so as far as 7s goes as long as its a "ford" top loader it should be all good. How hard would it be to get a bell housing to fit up to a 4.0 or 2.3? that might be the hard part. You said they have used them in short course so it souds like someone has it figured out. You could be on to something!
 

rdc

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j-dog my name is bj butcher of jackassracing i race with vorra, that truck is gary skipton, last year i won the 7s championship, its not the fastest (although for 7s it is )in the world but its will finish every race u put it in. to tell you the truth its a steal, i'd take it in a second!
 

firedog

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I believe that you have to run a transmission that came in the chassis that you are running ie the transmission must have been delievered from the facroty in a Ranger (could be wrong) but I think that is the way the rule reads. We run a bone stock '86 Toy 4 speed transmission, the same one that was in the truck when we bought it. It has over 200,000 miles on it and no sign of anything wrong with it and we abuse the hell out of it!! We have been racing on the transmission for 4 years now!! The only thing we did was upgrade the clutch.
 

billymanfroy

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Don't know about the 4.0, but the C4/2.3 bellhousings are nearly impossible to find. I used to subscribe to every 2.3/SVO site in the world to keep my eyes open for them. Yes, C4/2.3s did come in 83 rangers, but most were from 75 or so Pinto wagons with a 2.3 and the "towing package". How funny is that? What really sucks is they shatter like hard-boiled eggs if you use them at all in off-road. I've killed 5 or so of them, some spectacularly. (1st Vegas CORR race, my brother launched off the front straight jump, and when he hit the ground, the starter fell out. Turns out it actually broke front pump and input shafts in half.)

Before you get all engineering on me, the frame's boxed and yes, we've tried solid mounted everything, and even every combo of solid this rubber that and nothing totally fixed it. They ALL at least cracked eventually. Even when we ran a STOCK 2.3 through it. We basically ran out of bellhousings, so we built one out of two big ass pieces of machined aluminum welded to a 12" diameter aluminum tube cut to the right length. We don't break them anymore, and it's WAY easier to line up (well, it wasn't that hard anyway) AND the threads don't have to be heli-coiled with goofy metric stuff every time you touch it. I'd be happy to make them for those who are interested. No, they are not $50.
 

J_Dog

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Just wanted to thank everyone for their input/info on buying the truck. My friend and I checked it out on Saturday and purchased the "race package". Going to start getting set up and pratice driving the truck and will be starting in VORRA, but probably not until the short course race in September, possibly a desert race in the summer. See ya at the races.

Jeff Matlock

 
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