Class 8 Build? Need some guidance!

[RacinJason]

I just picked up this truck which I would assume would be a class 8? I’m a pavement racer switching to the dark side lol. Always loved these trucks since I was a kid, and now it’s time. I have the original bodywork that matches the photos of the truck back in the day, and it still has those wheels and tires on it. It’s four wheel drive, Dana 44’s front and back both trussed with limit cables. Has mounts for 2 shocks per side in the front and 3 per side in the rear. Someone cut the door bars out of the cage, but I’m going to put it back as it was. Was owned and raced (I was told) by Milo Goss, sponsored by their Gm dealership Goss Chevy Olds. Anyone ever seen the truck or know of it? Also a couple questions-

Did they really race these four wheel drive beasts with 5” of up travel? Could it be made to ride ok with Deavers front and back and real shocks? Or would I be better off switching it to 2wd with a-arms up front? Whatever I do, I want to be able to actually race it, and have it appear as it did in its heyday. Suspension technology has come a long way but I want it to look as close to original as possible.

Disclaimer- I know very little about these trucks and racing off road..

 

[Bro_Gill]

Milo Goss. Name from long time ago. I saw that truck race back in the early to mid 1980s. OORRA, Vorra, and the Mint. Yes, small uptravel numbers on 4X4s was common, damn engine in the way of that pumpkin! Yes, adding newer tech shocks and bump cans will make it work better, switching the A-arms would be even better, but since it is an actual old race truck, if you want something that works better, sell this to someone who wants to race vintage at Norra and get a 2wd truck.

 

[TrophyBurro]

course back then were not as rough. Now you have 40" tires and 1000HP in front of you tearing it all up

 

[bajafox]

Keep it original, upgrade shocks, suspension, etc and run NORRA or vintage classes. Class 8 has very low entries now but they are basically low end Trophy Trucks built around a stock chassis nowadays.

 

[RacinJason]

Milo Goss. Name from long time ago. I saw that truck race back in the early to mid 1980s. OORRA, Vorra, and the Mint. Yes, small uptravel numbers on 4X4s was common, damn engine in the way of that pumpkin! Yes, adding newer tech shocks and bump cans will make it work better, switching the A-arms would be even better, but since it is an actual old race truck, if you want something that works better, sell this to someone who wants to race vintage at Norra and get a 2wd truck.

Agreed. New leaf springs, updated shocks and bump stops will help a lot. It’s important to me to keep it close to the way it was raced, so I’m going to leave it 4wd. Thanks!

 

[jon coleman]

to start build,#1 task,ditch those plastic seats

 

[RacinJason]

Haha already done. Came with the truck so I took them, didn’t want to insult the guy

 

[Klaus]

subscribed to this thread.

My first truck in the US in 1993 was a pac-man yellow 77 Stepside 400cu 4x4.

 

[crafty]

Keep it close to original as you can. Get good springs and shock valving dialed. Install big break and know when to use them

 

[toddz]

and I'll bet Rory will buy those tires from you to help fund your build .

Todd Z.

 

[RacinJason]

Any idea what this truck would have weighed as raced? I would be surprised if it was under 4000lb, but the Mint 400 rule book shows roll cage tubing sizes should be bigger/thicker wall. Truck is currently 1.75” .095 DOM and I really don’t want to start over with an entirely new cage. Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[crafty]

I would think your grandfathered in cuz it has been a previous race truck. Hell most organizations let all the 1450 break the rules….

 

[Moss2]

Any idea what this truck would have weighed as raced? I would be surprised if it was under 4000lb, but the Mint 400 rule book shows roll cage tubing sizes should be bigger/thicker wall. Truck is currently 1.75” .095 DOM and I really don’t want to start over with an entirely new cage. Anyone have any thoughts?

I would bet it is in the 4800lb range with everything on it. Glad to see somebody going to give it some life again.

 

[RacinJason]

Thoughts on glass and tires? Mint 400 rules for Vintage class says front and rear glass is optional. Votes for or against?

Also can run up to 35” tires. What is everyone running on these trucks? BF Goodrich? Good Years? Not sure what to get. Spoke to Jeff at Deaver this week, going to have him make all new leaf springs for the truck to go with King 2.5 bypass shocks

 

[Rory]

and I'll bet Rory will buy those tires from you to help fund your build .

Todd Z.

I saw that too. bummer I already found some but if you want to sell cheap I'd think about it. Hahahhahaha

 

[RacinJason]

Ok- couple updates. Now that the truck is in my new shop, disassembly has begun. Some things the previous guy told me about the truck were not accurate. Cage is 2” so good there. Rear end is a 12 bolt. Dropped the cover today and it does not have a locker or posi. Seems strange they would run this truck with an open diff. Had old but fresh redline gear oil in it and loc-tite on the bolts so points toward someone who knew something putting it together. No c-clip eliminators either. Based on the pics I have and the trussing it’s the rear they raced with. I plan to put a spool and c-clip eliminators with a rear disc brake conversion. Gears are junk from sitting 25+ years. Everything above the gear oil is pretty rusty. I will pull the axles tomorrow and see if they are stock or aftermarket. They have big diameter wheel studs already as raced. Had the tires dis-mounted so I can polish the wheels. Thoughts on what tires I should run? Need to buy them soon before I can evaluate clearance etc with the new springs and (some) more travel. Engine block is at the machine shop now. 86+ 350 block with the one piece rear main and roller lifter setup. It’s getting a 400 crank and .040 bore should make it around 388 inches. 10.5-1 compression so I can run it on pump gas if necessary. I’ll post some pics over the next few weeks as it comes apart.

 

[Class3Fan]

Glad to see this old rig getting some love. It's not a Class 8 truck, though -- those were all 2WD. This one ran in Class 3 (stock 4WD). The rules then required a steel body (you could run a fiberglass hood), stock-looking wheel openings (meaning they could be enlarged), wheelbase within 2 inches of factory, an engine available from the manufacturer (though boring, head work, etc., was allowed), a stock style spring setup (you could add leaves, reverse the shackles, etc.). I do not believe there was any minimum weight -- most guys looked for ways to reduce weight, but these rigs by their very nature were pretty heavy.

 

[crafty]

I thought class 3 is short wheelbase mostly suv and class 4 is 4x4 trucks like Rod Hall….

 

[Bro_Gill]

Depends on year of build and competition. Early version of this is Class 3 was stock 4x4 and class 4 was modified 4x4. Then as class numbers dwindled, the versions changed.