Class 8

crafty

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All loose ends should be done by Sunday can’t wait for shake down race Fight at Fort Sage!
 

crafty

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She is home and running amazing!!! Few minor things to touch up this week and then off to the track!!!
 

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crafty

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First race down! VORRA Fight at Fort Sage. 2nd in class!! Had a blast and can’t wait for next season
 

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crafty

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Been there. If you don’t mind I’ll give you some advise.

Slow down. Take your time. Frustration set in when dead lines are not met and you get disappointed.

A good plan would be to show up to the race Friday morning and prerun the entire course getting to know the truck and finding things that need to be fixed. Cuz there’s gonna be stuff that lets loose.

Then watch the race Saturday.

One big place your gonna need to understand on that truck is shock set up. If there not close to being right it’s really easy to wreck it. With a bad shock tune they will kick and endo or roll easy.

Take is slow.

And btw, shock tuning is never over. There is always a better set up. Even if there close. When there close to perfect is when speed and confidence come together.

Couple of tips. If you don’t have any confidence that the truck will eat the bumps (up to a reasonable amount) the your shock tune is off. If the back is packing the axle up and not dropping out fast then your gonna kick and endo. Shock tune is off. If you hitting the bump stops hard, shock tune is off.

Remember this. The faster you go, the faster the tires have to drop out to obsorb the next bump. When the tires don’t drop out what happens is that you hit the next bump with the tires packed up and then you don’t have any up travel to obsorb the next hit. Typically this seen first with the back end and that why trucks kick. When its getting close it will feel kinda sloppy at slow speed and firm up as you move faster.

Springs play a roll too. But remember this. Spring hold the truck up. They don’t obsorb bumps or impacts. Shock are for absorbing bumps. Now that said. There is a balance to this. A little extra spring in the front will get the truck fly nose high. But just a little and that’s if it tucks the nose when jumping.

But remember, buggy guys like to tune shocks with springs. Don’t fall into that trap. It will get you chasing your tail in circles.

Oh yeah. Don’t test with kids around on dirt bikes and people with razors. If you hit one it will be your fault no matter the situation.
So the front end worked very well. The rear was a handful!! It kicked like no other. I tried speeding it up once in the big stuff and stared at the dirt for a few seconds and came down hard enough to flood motor. Rear springs are 56” nationals at least 20 years old with stock shackles, Duel 2.5 shocks at 180psi. Should I start with new springs? Longer springs? Play with shock psi?
 

Josh 8

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So the front end worked very well. The rear was a handful!! It kicked like no other. I tried speeding it up once in the big stuff and stared at the dirt for a few seconds and came down hard enough to flood motor. Rear springs are 56” nationals at least 20 years old with stock shackles, Duel 2.5 shocks at 180psi. Should I start with new springs? Longer springs? Play with shock psi?

I cut and pasted my post about shock from the other page. You should reread it.

_______________________________________________________
"Take is slow.

And btw, shock tuning is never over. There is always a better set up. Even if there close. When there close to perfect is when speed and confidence come together.

Couple of tips. If you don’t have any confidence that the truck will eat the bumps (up to a reasonable amount) the your shock tune is off. If the back is packing the axle up and not dropping out fast then your gonna kick and endo. Shock tune is off. If you hitting the bump stops hard, shock tune is off.

Remember this. The faster you go, the faster the tires have to drop out to absorb the next bump. When the tires don’t drop out what happens is that you hit the next bump with the tires packed up and then you don’t have any up travel to absorb the next hit. Typically this seen first with the back end and that is why trucks kick. When its getting close it will feel kinda sloppy at slow speed and firm up as you move faster.

Springs play a roll too. But remember this. Spring hold the truck up. They don’t absorb bumps or impacts. Shock are for absorbing bumps. Now that said. There is a balance to this. A little extra spring in the front will get the truck fly nose high. But just a little and that’s if it tucks the nose when jumping.

But remember, buggy guys like to tune shocks with springs. Don’t fall into that trap. It will get you chasing your tail in circles."

_______________________________________________________

I will be more clear. You need to go inside the rear shocks and re-valve the rebound side. Take some spring out of the top valve stack above the piston. this is the rebound side. The lower side of the piston is the compression side. Think of the shims as leaf springs and it will begin to make more sense as you work with them.

What you really need to do is take the shocks apart and measure all the shims with a dial caliper to get there diameter and thickness and note the position of all the shims in the stack. Make and drawing and keep notes. Post the drawing here and I will hold you hand with how to stack a new set of shims to help you out. Do you know what a flutter stack is? I am guessing you shims are not arranged in the manner to make a flutter stack. It simple to do this but you have to get into the shocks to find out and do this.

Post you finding here and I will show you what to do and a few other can learn too. And BTW.... Bleed all the nitrogen out of the shock before you disassemble them. Where thrasher clothes. You are going to make a mess. And be forewarned. There will be oil every where. Bench, floor, shoes, in your hair, on your face. You will be covered lols. It's a learning process.
 
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TRichards

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So the front end worked very well. The rear was a handful!! It kicked like no other. I tried speeding it up once in the big stuff and stared at the dirt for a few seconds and came down hard enough to flood motor. Rear springs are 56” nationals at least 20 years old with stock shackles, Duel 2.5 shocks at 180psi. Should I start with new springs? Longer springs? Play with shock psi?
Take your shocks off and bounce on your springs, make sure they fully articulate and not binding anywhere. from the pictures your ride height seems ok. You might be overshocked. Take all 4 shocks and document your valving stacks where you are at and call King and see what they recommend to soften the compression and quicken the rebound. Its a process. no bypass tubes makes it a little harder.
 

crafty

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Last race I snapped the spool in half and stripped the splines on a shaft. I’m running an Eaton HO52. Due to the gears not manufactured any longer I figured it time for a little modern upgrade.
 

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Josh 8

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Last race I snapped the spool in half and stripped the splines on a shaft. I’m running an Eaton HO52. Due to the gears not manufactured any longer I figured it time for a little modern upgrade.

I have a bare rear end in about the same shape as your new one. Who’s snouts and hubs are you going to use? Have you shopped a price? Can you share it? I am shopping too. The best price I have found is about $2500 for snouts bearings hubs and drive plates (40 spine). The hubs are 5x5.5 and the snouts are the larger 2” I.d. to accept 45 spline axels at a later date. I have no interest in the big 36 axels that use a 6 on 6 hub.
 

Jim Ober

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So it’s official I’ve been bit by the vintage bug! My new purchase is now home. I was fortunate enough to get a box of records so have parts rebuilt or bought new will be a lot easier. It’s very clean considering how long it’s been sitting. I’ll post more as project goes on
 

crafty

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I have a bare rear end in about the same shape as your new one. Who’s snouts and hubs are you going to use? Have you shopped a price? Can you share it? I am shopping too. The best price I have found is about $2500 for snouts bearings hubs and drive plates (40 spine). The hubs are 5x5.5 and the snouts are the larger 2” I.d. to accept 45 spline axels at a later date. I have no interest in the big 36 axels that use a 6 on 6 hub.
I am upgrading but trying to keep the original theme going so I’m going to have my outters cut off and welded to new housing. I have Summers Brothers 2.25” full float 40 spline 5x5.5 with 11/16” wheels studs in great condition. Your about spot on with $2500 for new
 

crafty

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Who was the driver of record of your old truck? If it ran at any SCORE or Bit Race, I have photos--- send me an e-mail to Jim@tracksidephoto.com
Jim Ober, Trackside photo
805 578-3470
Grady Smith was original owner based out of Parker AZ.truck was completed in 1980. Ray Bluff of AZ was second owner I believe he mostly ran the Whiplash series in mid to late 90’s
 

Josh 8

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I am upgrading but trying to keep the original theme going so I’m going to have my outters cut off and welded to new housing. I have Summers Brothers 2.25” full float 40 spline 5x5.5 with 11/16” wheels studs in great condition. Your about spot on with $2500 for new

You know what... That’s a great idea. I had not thought about cutting up the old housing and taking the snouts out and just using all the old parts over.

I was stuck on the thought process of have a complete rear axle sitting on the floor or in the pits. But the reality of lugging that thing around is not really their. Shoot, the axles, drive plates and spool are low time. I could finish this for cheap.
 

crafty

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I decided to keep original housing intact and rebuild another day or God forbid I sell it can go with it. I bought new snouts and will re use hubs and brakes.
 

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crafty

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You know what... That’s a great idea. I had not thought about cutting up the old housing and taking the snouts out and just using all the old parts over.

I was stuck on the thought process of have a complete rear axle sitting on the floor or in the pits. But the reality of lugging that thing around is not really their. Shoot, the axles, drive plates and spool are low time. I could finish this for cheap.
Hey I missed the opportunity to meet you at Yerington! I was to wrapped up with my dads truck 855 and brothers truck 755. We had to break in both motors on poker run and tons of the little things. I hope to see you at some future races and able to meet up
 

partybarge_pilot

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The axles were not long enough, that is why the splines stripped, not enough engagement. The bolt to set the end play should have been much shorter.
 
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