CNC Pedals

khoolguy

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Does anyone have CNC hydraulic pedals in their trucks, if so what kind. I bought some for a real good deal and woundering if they will work. I got a 88 ranger with a 97 motor and transmission, disk brake in front and drums in the rear. If i do this setup i wouldn't need my stock break booster then? Here is the kind of Pedals I got http://www.off-roadproducts.com/series122.html
 

brentsracing

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I have a 89 ranger but the hanging one if u mount it like that u would prob have it to close to u if you cut the firewall like i did u will have your brakes so close to your tires and have brake lines to close to the tire your asking for trouble i think.....get the hanging one and cut a hole higher above the tire, that's what i did....i don't use a power booster......good luck

kenny 798
 

Josh_K

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I have never seen your truck but unless you already have a full gage, hand made dash and worked the suspension already, I think you are getting into a major mess. The last think that I think most people do to a truck is redo the brakes because the stock ones are already pretty good and there all there.

If it's a stock truck you are going to ruin it! You will have to totally cut the dash and god only knows how much of the stock sheet metal to fit it in. Then build a cage so that there will be some hard points to mount it too, then build a new dash, redo all the dash wires, buy all new gages and on and on because you got a good deal on the wrong type of brake master and pedal assembly.

My advice is to cut your losses and sell the cnc brake assembly at the off-road swap meet.

Josh
 

khoolguy

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thats what the truck is, we're going to turn it into a race truck. There is no dash at all inside, the whole cab is gutted, there is going to be no dash and just wires for the guages and thats it. I have no problem cutting a hole in the firewall to make the assembly fit. Can't you just flip the whole pedal assembly upside down so its the hanging kind, just have to flip the master cylinder so its upright ??
 

Josh_K

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Well it sounds like you have it all figured out. I don't know if that thing will flip over or not, mine is the hanging type. I have never worked with the floor type.

Just remember this, when it gets challenging, all you have to do is... be smarter than the metal you are working with.

Josh
 

CRAIG_HALL

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First the reservoir is probably too small for the brakes on a truck-next you really cant flipp it because the pedals will probably be at an awkward angle-and the pedal length is too short.
 

curt

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Don't do it! There's some good reasons to switch pedal types, but those pedals don't cover any of them...For tubing under the hood issues they will still be under the hood or for master cylinder balancing, you need 2 master cylinders for the brakes one for the front and one for the rear. When you sacrifce the factory system you will get a noticeable decrease in braking unless you install a fully engineered system from pedals to calipers/rotors to replace the factory power brakes. Ours have never been the same and we've tried 3 different M/C size combo's...Curt
 

ntsqd

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As others have mentioned that pedal type is not right for the truck. You could use it if you REALLY prefer floor pivoted pedals. Very few people actually do. There is a reason the OE's have gone to hanging pedals. Due to the way things work out hanging pedals actually give you more leverage than floor mount pedals.
Also as has been pointed out, if you reservoirs are that same size as those you linked they are too small. Note that there are two pedals. That is a hydro clutch + rear brakes only sand buggy application set-up. Definitely NOT what you need.

Curt, you still running those Metrics for rear calipers ?
 

khoolguy

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Well like I said, i got a real good deal on those pedal assemble and wanted to see if they would work, but with all the info i got i guess it would not work. Guess I will have to sell them and keep my stock assembly or see if i can get a different model which is the hanging ones with 2 master cylinders for the breaks. Cause thats the last thing i want is for the breaks not to work right. Thanks for all the info and replys
 

singlehanded

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I am going to be putting in a reverse master hinging pedal in my ranger soon. You can get them at mckenzies or kartek, but they run between 250 and 300 bucks so they are not very cheap. They are definitly not for stocker prerunners. Do you have some problem with your master now or need the extra room?
 

curt

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TS- Yes still got the metrics, they still suck with the small diameter calipers up front. When I'm through dialing in the 4-link, I'm going to change to a 4wd front spindle and redo the front upper a-arm geometry to increase the braking and get rid of the frequently cracking front spindle at the same time...Curt
 

khoolguy

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I want to get rid of the stock break booster so I can have more room in the engine capartment for Engine cage, Does anyone have pics of Engine cages with the stock core support cut out so the grill and everything else is mounted off the engine cage ???
 

JaxMotorsports

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There is a set of the Pedals you need in the classifieds for $250.00
 

Fourstroker

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How much you want for those pedals so you can get the one's you need? I'm interested
 

ntsqd

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The VERY first thing I would do is unhook the vacuum booster hose from the engine and cap the port. Then pull the check valve out of the booster. Usually this is the plastic fitting the the hose attaches to on the booster. Now very CAREFULLY test drive the truck. This will tell you if the system has enough leverage to be functional w/o the booster.
If the brakes work fine like that you now know a couple things and have options. If the brakes do work fine like this can the m/c can be mounted flat on the firewall and still give you enough clearence ? If so, remove the booster and make a new pushrod. Be certain that your new pushrod can NOT fall out of engagement with the m/c's piston.
If the brakes didn't work well like that but having the m/c on the firewall will work, there were manual brake Ranger's made. Convert over to that m/c + brake pedal (assuming it's different).

At all costs avoid having the m/c reservoirs under the dash. That is a flat out PITA to work with, even if you have an access panel.

Curt, if you want to stay with yota parts the earlier 2wd's had a 2 piston fixed caliper. Assuming rotor width works out those would be a snap to make a bracket for.
 
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