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Coilovers and Body Roll

rdc

- users no longer part of the rdc family -
#1
Ok - I'm building up a 1993 Ford Explorer soon. I'm thinking about dual rate coilovers for the main shocks on my I-beams. How much body roll can I expect? And how can I limit it? An idea that came up on the <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.explorerforum.com>www.explorerforum.com</A> board was to use an adjustable shock like the rs9000 as an auxillary shock (like mounted to the radius arm and the engine cage) and use the stiffest setting on the road, then turn them to a different setting off-road, depending on the terrain. Thoughts?

David - No one of consequence.
 

Mike_HKmtrsprts

Well-Known Member
#2
I drove Camburgs exploder it has coilover bypasses and air bumps, when you turn around a corner the front end grows about 12-14 " then you have to whip the wheel to get it back down to ride height Jason is still trying to resolve the problem but other than that its was easy to drive. I wouldnt but a rancho next to coilover, how can I say this it will look like crap.
 

rdc

- users no longer part of the rdc family -
#3
Heh - I know it would look like crap. Hell, I was almost afraid to say the "r" word here. lol. But I'm worried more about function that looks.

David - No one of consequence.
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
#4
What about using a 2.0 coilcarrier and a 2.5 bypass. Wouldnt that work like the same idea only better shocks and It would look pretty cool on a daily driver For the most part with coilovered daily driver you just got to put up with it there is gonna be some play and be more careful on the street and dont let friends drive!

local
 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
#5
Ummm.....maybe this is casual to the most obvious observer, but why not just put a sway bar on it ?
There are a variety of ways to kill it's function when off road. To name a few:

Double acting small ram as one link, plumbed top to bottom with a solenoid or valve inline. How about a modified Bilstein 5100 ?

Rotatable leaf spring lever arm, controlled with a Morse type cable. Results in some roll spring rate even when turned 'off'.

Sliding splined section functioning in a fashion similar to the way an ARB or OX Locker functions.

Actual disconnects, the rock crawler world is full of variations on that theme.

A pair of small rams each attached to a side, plumbing btwn them with a metering orifice. Not a true sway arrangement, but would act as a damper for body roll. Would need a gas charged reservoir/expansion tank for off road use.

That's what I can think of in a few moments. I have played with this b4. My former employer calls it "mental masturbation."

"Teach you all I know and you're still stupid"
-- Howdy Lee
 

Flea

Well-Known Member
#6
could you possibly use shorter limit straps while leaving the longer ones on and then just disconnect the short limit straps when you go to the desert.

GOD BLESS AMERICA! and hopefully my poor truck too.
 

rdc

- users no longer part of the rdc family -
#7
I'll probably just live with some body roll. I drive it like an SUV should be driven anyway, so I don't think it'd be much of an issue. I just think it might be nice if it didn't feel any more tippy than it does. That's the real issue - I just don't want it acting much goofier than stock.

I had actually thought about swaybars, and I may still go that route.

David - No one of consequence.
 

Chris

Well-Known Member
#8
How about this. Go buy an old VW bug for $200 to get you to and from work and wherever else and build your explorer as insane as can be. No more searching for the perfect equation that will allow you to drive down the street without getting in a wreck but be able to jump 40 foot dunes out at glamis. You could even get one of those license plate frames for your beater that says "my other car can go over small walls at 60 mph" :) Just a thought.
 

rdc

- users no longer part of the rdc family -
#9
I had thought about that too. Honestly, I'm not building my truck for serious desert-running and jumping - I'm trying to keep the "U" capitalized in SUV - Utility. I hope that when I'm done, I'll be able to bomb around in the desert, and even hit the rocks and keep up for a while. But I want it to perform well wherever I go - I know it won't be the best, but it'll be able to keep up, you know what I mean?

David - No one of consequence.
 

sirhk100

Well-Known Member
#10
That's the best way to do it. I've got a '89 Honda Civic with 230K miles on it and it's what I drive M-F. I'm goign to drive it till it's gone, then throw it away and get another one but this time it'll be lowered with big rims and [censored]!!! You don't want to use your prerunner as a daily driver cause that'll just kill it faster and what happens when it's broke. It would suck to have to ride a bike everywhere!!

'99YZ400,
'92 Ford Exploder lifted work in progress,
lifted golf cart <P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by sirhk100 on 11/02/01 11:50 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
 

Chris

Well-Known Member
#11
I hear you for sure. Save your money. Get some decent 2" shocks a good set of rear springs, some comfy seats, and harnesses. You be stylin!!
 
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