CR 250 Cold Starting

Ryno

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Since everyone in here seems to ride, or have ridden at some point, I thought I'd throw this out there. I have a CR250 that takes about 20 kicks to start when cold. When warm, it'll fire right up everytime first kick. What can I do to fix this...I just went through the entire bike minus taking off the cylinder and head. I even have the pipe cleaned out when they did the little dings it in. I run a BR9ES plug, mix my gas @ 44-1. and change the oil, plug, filter every other ride. Thanks for any advice!!

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michael_loomis

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my CR is a 90 and when i start it by the book it starts first kick everytime .... anything else and nothing.

cold - choke on , no throttle
hot - 1/4 throttle

as if ya didnt know already lol

my kill switch has somekind of bad connection i think ... once in awhile it wont start regardless and i monkey with the switch a bit and it fires right up
 

Kbach66

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Ryno...
If it's a newer CR (01 and up) turn the choke on, kick the bike about 3-4 kicks SLOWLY, then kick it once hard with the throttle slightly cracked open. This seems to work the best.
 

jwfab1

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I have a YZ250 and if I crack the throttle when starting it, it won't fire cold. Try starting it with the choke up and no throttle and see if that helps. I also run my bike 32:1.
 

ACID_RAIN28

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A trick I learned for finding a good ration is that you lean out the oil until you don't see a residue in out the pipe any more, then you bump it up just a hare, perfect.

It is a HONDA if it doesn't start on the first or second kick something is seriously wrong.

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Kritter

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If none of those tricks work check the piston, rings, reeds, jets, etc... When I was younger and did some dez racing my dad prepped the bikes to start first kick no matter what routine you did cuz if it didnt start...you were screwed on the bomb run. I will check to see if he has any tricks cuz my 60 80 and 125 could almost be started by hand or barefoot.

Kris
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.barneysprecision.com/fabproducts.htm> Fab Parts</A>
 

Ryno

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The bike is a 94. The reeds are fine, carb is spotless and works perfect. The top end still has plenty of compression. I will try the 3-4 kick thing....I've heard of that working. Thanks for all the replies guys.

Kris-let me know what your dad says, I'm interested to see what tricks he has.

Ryno

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FABRICATOR

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I've heard several ways to start the big brother (mother?) 500. What's funny is they seem to work at first but the next time you go out they don't. It's still a bitch when it's cold.

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ACID_RAIN28

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I got an Lt 500 and when it has a new plug, first kick, no questionns, but as the day goes on it takes a couple. I always put in a fresh plug every day, it is only a $ or two so it is worth it.

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SuperDave

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You've got the wrong spark plug. The BR9ES has the large extended center electrode. This plug garuntees you trouble with cold starts. Get the BR8EG. The "G" is the thinner "racing" center electrode and the 8 is one heat range hotter than the 9. The manual for my '92 CR250 calls for the BR8EG but if you think this plug is going to be too hot for your bike, then get the BR9EG.

Dave

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michael_loomis

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what i want to know is , why the heck we all have to use a bR anything . isnt the resistor for blocking out noise for a vehicles audio system ? would it be too "hot" to run a plug with no resistor ?
 

Ryno

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Dave-

I run the BR9ES because it is a copper electrode, and the plugs are cheap. The EG plug has a gold electrode, and costs $5. My other plugs run about a 1.50 ea. I know I sound horribly cheap, but change 4 plugs a month....then multiply that by 12. I will try one, if it works, I'll be sure to let you know...

Ryan

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curt

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The resistor is for the CDI, its necessary. I've been running either the ES or EG plugs for 5 years and they are interchangable with no problem.

Before the EG version the ES was standard on most CR's and RM's, usually the 8 was the middle plug, if you needed to run cooler or increase your top end power you'd go with a 9, to increase your bottom end or run a little hotter to keep from foulong your plug go with a 7.

I also change plugs more than necessary because I run the mixture rich 32:1 to potentially increase the life of my top end.

If you really have to change plugs frequently you need to: Clean your air filter, clean your pipe packing, or get on the pipe more to burn the fuel/oil.

97 CR500
Curt

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SuperDave

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Ryan,

If you have to change your plug 4 times a month, there's something wrong. A plug should last a whole lot longer than that.

Here's my experiance with my CR250 and take it for what it's worth. One time I decided to go cheap and bought the BR8ES plug from Autozone for $1.49. Then I went to go riding. It took 50-60 kicks to get it started. I just played it off a a fuel problem. Went riding again. Again 50-60 kicks to get it started. Remembered about the cheap plug and then installed a BR8EG. Starts in 1-3 kicks everytime since then. End of story.

Dave



Rover 4
 

dadomin8r

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My old one used to do that too. I was told by DeWayne Jones to change my oil and ratio.

Believe it or not I ran Chevron 2-cycle oil at 80:1 with pump gas (yup, the $2.99/quart oil you see at the stations). The chevron 2-cycle is one of the best oils to run and its fully synthetic so running as thin as 100:1 won't hurt anything. I only ran the tracks and Glamis, no dezert. Running the oil that thin also un-stuck the power valves in my bike (I didn't know they were stuck until they unstuck). Not many people feel comfortable running the oil that thin but it never hurt my bike. Never had a starting problem again.

Dominic
 

BA_DirtDriver

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pressurize the fuel tank after long layoffs no throttle and choke

6mos non op old fuel old QN86 plug 4-5 kicks everytime
FWIW
 
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