Curtis Guise Project Vehicle - Toyota T100

Curtis Guise

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Re: Front hubs are cracked and will be upgraded

You have to remember that they are not cracked in the center, only at the thinnest point, and you would have to pull a stud through a lot of material before they would come apart. I've seen a ton of miles put on cracked hubs like that with no damage - but I would replace them too.

Yeah it scared me at first but after thinking about it I think I would have to drive it super hard to actually break them. Either way it's still time to update to better hubs. I have all of the parts now I just need some time to do swap it all out. I have a new set of Wilwood 6 piston calipers and 13" rotors I am upgrading to also. The back was upgraded when I put the new rear end in it over a year ago.
 

Curtis Guise

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Wow, 9 years since I updated this thread. And Ramsey was the last person I replied to. RIP.

Here's a shot that Nicole from Total Chaos Fabrication took during a Mojave Trail trip in 2013.
curtis-guise-toyota-t100-mojave-trail-lakebed.jpg


Here's a couple shots our friend Tom Kimmel shot during a Locos Mocos trip for the 2016 Baja 1000.
curtis-guise-toyota-t100-2016-baja-1000-tom-kimmel-photo-1.jpg

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And a couple more shots by Nicole from Total Chaos Fabrication during the 2017 San Felipe 250. Compadre trail and Diablo lakebed.
2017-compadretrail-curtis-guise-toyota-t100.jpg

2017-diablodrylake-curtis-guise-toyota-t100.jpg
 

Curtis Guise

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The LS2 I had from Turnkey sat in my garage for many years. It never made it's way into the T100 because of time, money, etc... So I ended up selling it to Gabe Lara over 5 years ago and used the money to buy much needed computer and video equipment at the time. Gabe has been rebuilding his Ranger for many years and it's looking amazing. Not sure if any of you follow him on Instagram but he posts updates occasionally. Can't wait to see it finished and feature it here on RDC.
 

Curtis Guise

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In 2017 I planned on taking the T100 to the Baja 1000 for the peninsula run with our Locos Mocos crew. The front suspension had been noisy for awhile and after some inspection I discovered the lower a-arm mounting tabs/holes were beaten out from the lack of maintenance and the bushing sleeves seizing to the delrin bushings. It was past time for a full front end prep so I replaced all of the bushings, uniballs in the upper arms, spindles and steering.

Also not to long before this I replaced the GM steering box with a new one from PSC. And replaced the stock Toyota steering pump with a TC pump kit from Trailgear. The original steering box was one of Mark Newhan's spares from his Chevy prerunner that he used when he built my front suspension. After years of abuse it finally needed replacement.

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Instead of making new delrin bushings for the lower arms I picked up some poly bushings from ORW. If I remember right they are the harder Jimco rear arm bushings and I had to modify the length and shoulder width to make them work. The lower uniballs in the spindles took some heat and about 12 tons on the press to get them out.

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Fresh coat of Steel-It on the steering arms.

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Curtis Guise

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My last post was about the full prep I did on the front suspension a few years ago. The shocks have gone way to long without a rebuild so I finally pulled them all last week and I met up with Jake Hinkle who recently started doing Cerakote. His company is Impeccable Coatings in Yuma, AZ. He is rebuilding all of the shocks with seal kits from Shockseals.com and will be applying stainless color Cerakote on the shock bodies. If you aren't familiar with Cerakote it's very popular in the gun industry. It's more durable than powdercoating, read more about it here. He also just did a bike frame for me using 3 different colors and it came out great. I'm also having him Cerakote the UMP filter housing. Check out the Impeccable Coatings IG account and his latest post is my aluminum bike frame and carbon fiber fork that he did for me.

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Of course this didn't stop with just a shock rebuild... I've been talking with @Mark Newhan about my spring setup and he is helping me figure out new spring lengths and rates to get a better ride overall. Back when I built the truck there weren't as many long spring options and I'm not even using the crossovers with the current setup. Right now the springs are 12" 450lb over 12" 500lb springs in the front and 12" 300lb over 16" 450lb in the rear (450 is a guess for the rear because they aren't marked, and @Kritter from Shockseals will be checking the spring rate on those coils for me this week). The new setup would be changing to longer heavier springs for the lowers with shorter lighter springs on top. For the rear I might have to use adapters to run 20" or 22" length 3.75" ID springs for the lowers because 18" is the longest 3" ID spring. Fox makes the lower spring perch adapter and I just found out that All German Motorsports makes their coil sliders with the 3.75 spring to 2.5 shock adapter.

The rear shocks use delrin bushings instead of heims because of the lower link design. It keeps the arms from rotating. The sleeves and bushings need to be replaced so those are being made at a machine shop near Marks shop. I originally made them all myself but I don't have access to a lathe like I used to when I built the truck in my friends shop in NorCal.

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UMP filter is getting the same stainless color Cerakote.

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Curtis Guise

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The lower rear coils didn't have any markings on them and if I remember right they are from @Mark Newhan's old Chevy prerunner. Mark thinks they are Hyperco's. @Kritter was able to check the spring rate for me when I picked up the seal kits and they are 300lb springs.
curtis-guise-t100-spring-rate-IMG_4203.jpg

I was thinking about having all of the springs powder coated because some are in bad shape (rust). But since they are so old I decided to replace them all and Mark talked me into going with a different setup. 12" 250 over 18" 450 in the rear. 8" 300 over 18" 600 in the front.

The old setup wasn't using the crossover rings so we will set it up with the softer initial ride and have the crossovers kick in. Hopefully these rates work out but we'll see after I get it all back together...
 

Curtis Guise

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That shock fluid... ick! ;)

Aloha
Jake said that the front coil overs looked like that but the rest were bright red fluid that didn't smell bad. Weird since all the shocks were installed at the same time and never opened since... But my guess is that the coil overs were off the shelf with regular oil and the bypasses had the red JM92 in them because I had Fox custom make those with the bypass tubes in specific locations. So they could have put JM92 in those. That's the oil we bought for the rebuild as suggested by Kritter and Mark since I'm obviously bad at servicing them... 🤣
 

jeff

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Last shock service on my FOX shocks was in 2017 just before the NORRA 1000. I had an appointment to meet up with Kritter in December 2020 but it fell apart last minute. Which reminds me... I need to give him a call! I'm curious to see how the coating looks. My shocks are up there in age and a refresh sounds better on the wallet than a replace.

Aloha
 

Fifty

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I’m still trying to wrap my mind around how the sway bar works.
(Tbh I’m still trying to figure out giants little shocks on their links too)

but that sway... looks like I’m going to have to make a rear suspension out of Tig filler
 

Curtis Guise

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Run more pressure in those CO's. Cavitation will cook oil like that.

I've always run 200. What do you suggest? And it also didn't help that they haven't been rebuilt in 13 years. Although there aren't as many miles on them compared to what most people put on their trucks in that amount of time. The seals in the reservoirs were bad in a few of the shocks also.
 

partybarge_pilot

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I’m still trying to wrap my mind around how the sway bar works.
The extra unsprung weight holds everything down LOL.....
I've always run 200. What do you suggest? And it also didn't help that they haven't been rebuilt in 13 years. Although there aren't as many miles on them compared to what most people put on their trucks in that amount of time. The seals in the reservoirs were bad in a few of the shocks also.
300 and up depending on the valving. 200 is way to low for resi out the top with any kind of valving in them.

Edit, also setting your IFP height will help here also reducing the need for really high extended pressure.
 

Curtis Guise

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The extra unsprung weight holds everything down LOL.....

300 and up depending on the valving. 200 is way to low for resi out the top with any kind of valving in them.

Edit, also setting your IFP height will help here also reducing the need for really high extended pressure.

I've heard mixed things about charging the shocks either at ride height or with the suspension at full droop. If I remember right a couple people told me to use less pressure if charging at ride height. Curious what people think about this. Or maybe there's a thread about it already...
 

jon coleman

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I've heard mixed things about charging the shocks either at ride height or with the suspension at full droop. If I remember right a couple people told me to use less pressure if charging at ride height. Curious what people think about this. Or maybe there's a thread about it already...
i was told by Bilstien full extension 200- 250, i ran 250 up front 200 in rear
 

partybarge_pilot

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Charging at ride hieght would take more pressure not less.

Best done at full extension to keep everything consistent.

Pressure needed varies greatly with valving. If you're running 8's on comp, 200 is plenty. If you're running a rate plate, 350 and up.
 

Curtis Guise

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I picked up the shocks and filter housing from Jake at Impeccable Coatings last week. They came out great! Now I just need to make some time to start putting them back on the truck. The Cerakote color is called stainless.

curtis-guise-toyota-t100-shocks-rebuild-2021-1.jpg
 

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jeff

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Those came out really nice. Can you text or PM me some rough pricing information? I'm in the same boat with my old FOX shocks.

Aloha
 
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