Driver questions

TUBETECK

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Being new to this offroad stuff (just 2 years) I am now learning how to drive after learning how to build a 5-16 from the ground up.
Questions:
When driving through a sand wash in fouth, I've been told to downshift into third every so often to cool the motor. Now my first thought was how do dat work? Wont the higher RPMs create more heat? After asking why, the reply was that the higher engine speed pushes more oil through the cooler and thus cools the engine better. After hearing that and knowing what I know from working in the refrigeration industry for years, it just does'nt make sense. To me the slower the fluid moves through the cooler, the more air passes by, the more heat transferance occurs. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Maybe KLAUS or JOHN can start a new board where drivers and wannabees(like me) can share pointers and advice. I know I wished I had known back in the beginning, that when someone slams you from behind that means they want you to get out of the way, not hit your brakes in the middle of a canyon wash, and ask them WTF.
 
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Get a Pyrometer and you'll never have a problem. Mount it in the #3 exhaust about six inches downstream and don't let EGT get over 1250* for any significant time. http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3120&sid=11

P.s. Oil temp is not what you should be worried about in an air cooled as much as you should be worried about cylinder head/exhaust temp; they will get way too hot before it will show in the oil temp. You can bring down cylinder head/exhaust temp by "dancing" on the gas peddle; dumping extra fuel (accelerator pump) into the motor without loosing RPM’s or speed. You’ll be able to see the effect on the EGT gauge.
 
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Doug

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Lugging a motor (lower rpms) is part of what causes the extra heat (plus the cooling fan turns slower). The engine has to work harder at 2500rpm than it would at 4000rpm (because 4000 revolutions doing the same work as 2500 revolutions is easier on the motor). Just like towing a heavy trailer up a grade. The engine struggles and you slow down then when the trans downshifts you can actually pick up speed. There's more to it but I'm leaving for the Whiplash short course race so that's all I have time for now.
 

5racer

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i know on my t-4 motor with 911 fan cooling last thing you want to do is lug motor ,you want good rpms for fan speed .as far as gauges go toss all your temp gauges they will just scare ya .and by the time you see that head temp is way up its to late anyways .
 
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as far as gauges go toss all your temp gauges they will just scare ya .and by the time you see that head temp is way up its to late anyways .
That is true of an oil temp gauge but the EGT gauge reacts almost instantly and can save your engine. It is also a useful tool for carb jetting!
 

tltony

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I agree with Ramsey on the pyro. We live by ours.

Tony
 

hammer down racing

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We drive a 1600 car and our engine guy has told us to blip the throttle a few times when we are pinned in forth for a while. Like when we are on a lake bed, power line road, fire road, etc. He said that "dancing" on the throttle every thirty seconds or so will help cool the motor by dumping raw fuel on top of the pistons and it doesn't slow the car down. It seems to work for us, we haven't had any overheating issues. (knock on wood):)
 

TUBETECK

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Now you what you guys mean by "blipping the throttle", "dancing on the throttle" is actualy lifting for a short period of time sort of like when you preload the rear before a jump?

Thease comments are exacly what I was looking for. If we can get more and more questions and answears I think this would be a very good topic!

Next queation:
When driving through the trails and its nothing but rutts, but the a** end is hitting every so often when you go over the big bumps. Do you:
A) lift and drive around
B) tell your crew to put more bound in the rear, when you pit
C) try to drive on the crown of the rutt and the side of the trail
D) none of the above

Next:
When driving through the wash and you feel the car starting to bogg, following in the same tracks as everyone else
A) float over to the side to "grab some vegetation"
B) stay in the tacks and deal with it (motor temp again)
C) I'm out of ideas (#1 works best for me)

Help us out here, those of you that know
 

Frontier 4 Baja

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When In a Sand Wash and your car starts to bogg, You need to down shift to prevent further bogging so you dont get stuck. Try not to let of the gas, so you dont lose momemtum. Especially in those long Baja sand washes. Then, you need to go into the vegetation as soon as possible. So your tires can pick up traction and get the car up to speed again. But, only go into the vegetation if it's close to you. Of course, you stay in the vegetation as long as possible. You go faster that way.

There's a great video of Baja Bugs going through a wash www.vw516.org at the last SCORE Baja 250.
 

TUBETECK

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Thanks for all the tips. Now its your turn.
Any questions you might have, old or new, post them. Maybe with enough intrest we can turn this into something just for DOR's.
Now I gotta go and try to finish fixing my 5-16 for the May race in Lucrne. But keep the questions coming.
 

Blackmutt

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To answer your first question in post 8, the answer might even be "e: All of the above". Don't get locked into one style of driving. Sometimes it's better to stay in the ruts while other times you want might try to ride the crowns. It's OK if your suspension bottoms out sometimes because that means your using all of you travel. However, if you bottom out too often then you're too soft. For some courses you should adjust your suspension stiffer or softer depending on the terrain. Regarding the sand washes, if you feel the rear sinking and you're losing speed fast it's time to get into the brush. Whether your going up the wash versus down is also part of your decision.
 

5racer

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I agree with Ramsey on the pyro. We live by ours.

Tony

sorry guys have to disagree only time iv seen pyro units in a vw motor are for dyno or injected motors .told from a very good motor man that works at kartek was for me to take all gauges out and put clocks in if i wanted something to look at .
 
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sorry guys have to disagree only time iv seen pyro units in a vw motor are for dyno or injected motors .told from a very good motor man that works at kartek was for me to take all gauges out and put clocks in if i wanted something to look at .
That convinces me... I'll just quit what I have been doing successfully for 20 years and get some clocks. That way I'll know what time it is when I cook my motor.
 

TUBETECK

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Last time I checked those gauges were there for the co-driver to look at.

Question:
You come up behind a car that is obviously faster than you, but the clown behind the wheel thinks he's cruising down the boulevard and when he spots you in the mirror, speeds up enough so you cant bump him. What do you do?
 

Moss2

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Last time I checked those gauges were there for the co-driver to look at.

Question:
You come up behind a car that is obviously faster than you, but the clown behind the wheel thinks he's cruising down the boulevard and when he spots you in the mirror, speeds up enough so you cant bump him. What do you do?

Take the A line..
 

Rory

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Last time I checked those gauges were there for the co-driver to look at.

Question:
You come up behind a car that is obviously faster than you, but the clown behind the wheel thinks he's cruising down the boulevard and when he spots you in the mirror, speeds up enough so you cant bump him. What do you do?

Tighten up your belts and take him for a ride. As PCI Scott would say, "Run and your done"!
 

David_Girdner

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Now you what you guys mean by "blipping the throttle", "dancing on the throttle" is actualy lifting for a short period of time sort of like when you preload the rear before a jump?

Thease comments are exacly what I was looking for. If we can get more and more questions and answears I think this would be a very good topic!

Next queation:
When driving through the trails and its nothing but rutts, but the a** end is hitting every so often when you go over the big bumps. Do you:
A) lift and drive around
B) tell your crew to put more bound in the rear, when you pit
C) try to drive on the crown of the rutt and the side of the trail
D) none of the above

I always try to drive on the crown/side to stay out of the ruts. In a limited travel/suspension car you will have clearance issues that can't be solved by stiffening the suspension or "adding bar".

Blipping the throttle in an air-cooled VW car in the middle of a long wide open run is a very quick on/off/back on. The accelerator pump kicks in when you jump back in the throttle so you get a bit of extra fuel which helps cool the engine.
 

TUBETECK

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Godd answers everyone. Sorry its been a while After the MORE race in lucerne we went to mexico( Thanks Cam).
One thing I saw down south is the idiots that like to stand a little to close to the track and try to touch the car as it comes buy. Now this may not be a drivers tech. question but are people really that stupid? I was totaly expecting to wind up with someones arm still holding onto the car minus the body.
Anyway I already know the answer to this question but what does everyone do?
 

la2baja

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Last time I checked those gauges were there for the co-driver to look at.

Question:
You come up behind a car that is obviously faster than you, but the clown behind the wheel thinks he's cruising down the boulevard and when he spots you in the mirror, speeds up enough so you cant bump him. What do you do?


First of all..... Ramsey= Funny!

In longer races you will catch guys that you know are typically faster than you. When there is no dust to chase and no one on your arse, it is easy to sort of slip off your pace. If you have a clean pass then make it. If there is no other line then give him a bump. If he jack rabbits and he is going faster than you would normally go.... Let him run. IF he really is that much faster than you then he will leave you behind. In a few minutes you will be dust free and running at your own speed. It's hard not to take the bait but if this guy was just slacking then you might find yourself driving over your head and not long after you are out of the race. "You must first finish to finish first!".
So run at your pace!

As far as the pyro.... Whether or not you know who to believe here, the pyro is a small investment. Install it and use it. The worst thing that can happen is you ignore it. Don't install it and the worst thing that can happen is you kill a motor without warning. Hmmm.... Easy choice for me.

Good luck 5/16 is a great class!
 
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