dual battery setup

hoeker

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many of the CORR trucks run a red top(regular) and yellow top (deep cycle i think) are these what your refering too? if so, i am also curious. i can see the advantage of a deep cycle in a racing application if you loose the alt, but then they should both be deep cycle? i think i'm going to save the 40lbs, and just run one bat. with enough amperage alt. to run everything on my truck. 40lbs / vs 2 hp - tough choice!

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ntsqd

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Starting batteries aren't well suited to being deep cycled, it tends to kill them faster than otherwise. Deep cycle batteries aren't well suited to discharging starting current levels.
If it's a race truck, particularly one with a small displacement engine, I would seriously weigh battery life against deep cycle reserve. If you have a 12:1 400 inch V8 then I'd have to say red top only otherwise having the sole battery being a yellow top MIGHT be an advantage.
Both the Yellow and the Red tops are listed as having the same reserve time. If you tend to kill alts mid race then a yellow top would be a sound choice.
To do a red top for start - yellow top for everything else wouldn't be too difficult of a wiring job. In a race vehicle I doubt I'd do it w/o a really good reason. I'd be more likely to do it in a chase/play vehicle.

TS

I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.
 

Tom_Willis

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That's a lot of valuable information. Good to know that it's not as complicated as it seemed at first, there aren't any equations to do. I still can't figure out one small detail. Who turns off the light in my fridge when I shut the door?

I live my life one paycheck at a time
 
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You turned off the light when you shut the door. And, you should be doing the same thing in your truck if you run dual batteries. What I mean is that you should be using a manual two battery switch (I have never seen a serious race truck that does not use one) so that you can select either battery or both. Not only can you manually manage the use of your batteries and their charging, but it is a good safety item to have, should you get wadded up. Hide it's location to a degree and your average idiot can't rip your truck off as easily. You can even get one that locks with a key. Check out: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://marineengineparts.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page50.html>http://marineengineparts.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page50.html</A>
 

ntsqd

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Hella makes a battery switch similar to the Blue Seas unit with the removable key in Ramsey's link.
My local West Marine carries the Blue Seas switch and project "Scrusty" got one.

TS

I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.
 

bajaruner11

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Just a note to everyone regarding the hella battery switch. It's junk! and I'm referring to the marine switch. Over time I have had the opportunity to see 3 of these die out in short time. I would go with a true marine switch such as "Perko" or "Bluesea".
 

michael_loomis

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make sure you get one with AFD or else you'll screw up your alterator when you flip the switch and the engine is running.
 

ntsqd

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Sometimes called an "alternator protection diode" in sales literature.

<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

make sure you get one with AFD or else you'll screw up your alterator when you flip the switch and the engine is running.

<hr></blockquote>


I'm not convinced this will happen the first time this is done, but why take the chance ?

TS

I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.
 

mxjeremy

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If this is for a racing application, especially short-course, then why run a battery at all? Save 80lbs instead of just 40. If you are worried about starting after a stall (OMG,why would you stall?), then you could rig up some pneumatic starter mechanism. Use a section of your rollcage as air tank, and fill it up between races. After all, my cr250 doesn't need a battery, and it kicks butt.
late.
 

ntsqd

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I have a real problem with using the cage to hold compressed air. There is a lot of energy in compressed air and a cage is not designed to properly contain that pressure. I suspect that if a tech guy figured out what you were doing that he would make you remove it.

TS

I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.
 

hoeker

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it's really a pretty inconceivable option. yes it's short course racing, but for 15 minutes your subjecting the truck to pure hell. you need to have the option of restarting the truck if it stalls, you roll it, whatever. what happens if they red flag the race for an hour?? odds are you won't be able to start the truck when they're done. i could believe getting one good start out of a pneumatic system, but don't think you'd even save the weight of the battery, then there's no sense.

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mxjeremy

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Yeah, but I thought it would make nerfing a lot more interesting if the rear bumpers were carrying 200psi. I guess I got a little carried away. I kind of stole this idea from the onboard compressor w/ bumper tanks that some rockcrawlers use.
late.
 

ntsqd

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Those scare me too.

TS

I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.
 
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