Does everyone use the stock inner bushings on your front ends, or is there another trick material that is used. I have the Delrin outers, but need to know about the inners. Thanks in advance for the help. Mike Hinson-Bakersfield
Mike, I use the one piece delrin bushings on my car.They replace both the inner and outer bushings.
They seam to wear good and work just fine. I did have the urathane outers and stock inners for a
short time but the urathane bushings didn't hold up to well.
<font color=red>Cameron</font color=red>
<font color=yellow>BRAT Racing # 936</font color=yellow>
Are your one piece Delrin bushings full length, like the red urethane ones? I just have the short outer delrin bushings and am using the stock inner bushings. Where do I get the full length delrin units? Thanks for the help. Mike
I got my Delrins from Kartek. I think the brand name was Saco. I had "Prothane" (Urethane) when I bought the car, but everyone said the Delrins were better. I can't tell the difference. The Delrin does seem to wear well. I think the upper is one piece, and the lower is two pieces (or vice versa).
I used to use the full stock setup " Neddle Bearings and Mycarta bushings"
but they would not take a whole lot of abuse, and when I found a new codriver that wanted to drive my car like a 1600 and average 45 MPH we had to make a change. So I now use the Delrin full length bushings for both Upper and Lower arms and they seem to hold up pretty well but we still have to change them about every 3 or 4 races. You can get them from Kartek or McKenzies or German Auto,
and Joel Mohr at Mohr Performance in Heseria sells them also but they are not Delrins but a new fangled "Biogenetic radioactive Polly???" Material that he says works pretty well. Good luck with the new car and hope to see you in Barstow in Nov, We really need to start hyping this MORE/SNORE race as it has the potential to be a real big Race for us 9 guys! Rob Stapp #975 Barstow
Biogenetic radioactive Polly????????
I am loving that!!!!!!!!!
Can't get 'em at Kartek, gotta go to the Nuclear Regulatory Committee!
BTW: A tip on the Saco Delrins: There are 3 dimples spaced 120* apart in the upper beam. The first time I tried to install them, I thought I had the wrong part. They would not go all the way in. Then I realized what was up. I took a hammer and LIGHTLY tapped on the bushing. This left an indentation on the end of the bushing at the dimples. I used a grinder to bevel the bushing at these 3 points. Then, installation was possible. Maybe this is a bad practice. If somebody knows more about this, please post in here!
The first time I installed a set of Delrins I noticed the same thing about the upper sleeves, but I was told by " Prof. Source" that this was OK and NOT to adjust the bushing so that they slip over the dimples. If you do the bushing will be to far in and will through off the camber angle! and bind the balljoint. So I have just been putting a large thick O-ring over the arm and slip it into the slot at the end of the bushing to take up the space, it does not do much but keep the dirt out and look better. If this is a bunch of bunk then I hope someone will let us know and I will start notching mine as well! Rob. #975
Makes me wonder if there is undue stress put on the torsion leaves if the bushings are not fully seated. The leaves have to get shorter as they twist when you hit a bump. Maybe the O ring compresses enough so that the leaves are not stretched. If they do stretch, is it a problem? What are other 9 drivers opinions? Let us know. By the way, German Auto said they would complete their production run of new bushings next week and be able to fill their back orders. Mike
A little tip if you are relocating the grease fittings on the beam. Mark the bushings with the fittings out,
then remove the bushings and drill a hole in the bushing were the fitting would be. Then you know the
grease is getting to the arm. We did this because the first time we pulled the arms out they had very
little grease on them. Now when we pll the arms they seam to have plenty of grease.
<font color=red>Cameron</font color=red>
<font color=yellow>BRAT Racing # 936</font color=yellow>
I forgot to mention that another reason you can not fully seat the upper Delrins is because with the bushing fully seated the Grub Screw hole in the leaf springs will not line up and when you go to tighten the arm grub it will just push the arm back out to were it was before you notched your bushings!
Why they designed them this way" Who knows" I thought that maybe there was a slightly wider beam being produced somewhere and these would fit as well?
As far as the springs getting shorter that would be so miniscule that it would not make any differance, I have always run stock springs and have never broken one yet. Rob Stapp #975
Well here I go again. I just tried to install my new Delrin bushings from German Auto (SACO). As Tim mentioned in a previous post, the new one piece upper bushing hit the three dimples before bottoming out. Rob, you said that you put a large "O" ring on the bushing to take up the slack, instead of notching out the ends of the bushing. Can you explain to me how seating the bushings in another 1/8" or so can make the camber angle off. I haven't put them in, but I thought the top arm would crush or split the end of the bushing if it's not seated all the way in when I install the allen set screws.
I thought that the arms would still be at the correct distance from center due to the set screws at the end of the torsion leaves. I can't understand why they made the delrins a little too long, unless they also fit some other application. Looks like I will hunt down some "O" rings in the morning. I hope I have explained this clearly. I appreciate all the help from the Class 9 group.
Another question. What are the different teams using for front torsion leaves. Should I go out and buy a set of SAW leaves, or are the stock ones OK? if you use aftermarket leaves, do you use top and bottom, bottom only, or top only? Please let me know what you suggest I use to gert started.
Great to hear you have not gone bonkers and given up yet!
As for the Delrin bushings as I mentioned before if you slip the uppers in all the way until they seat against the beam, then they will be to far in and the grub screw hole in the leaf springs "which can not change! will not line up properly. they will be 1/8 to far in the arm and when you go to tighten the grub screw it will just realign itself and push the arm back out an 1/8. You can not shorten this distance between the grub holes so actually you could never get them to far in enough to through off the camber angle anyway. But as the upper arm pulls in the camber angle changes becouse the balljoint and essentric bushing follow it. that is why there is an essentric bushing that allows us to offset any discrpency in the angle of the arms and spindle. there is a large enough sholder on the bushings to support the arm and not damage it. so dont worry about cracking it.
Also the front leaf springs are a real matter of choice but I will share with you my 10 + years of experience with balljoint front-ends, We have tried many different combonations of springs over the years and have concluded that the best setup "BY FAR" has been bone stock springs upper and lower becouse the SWs are just to stiff for just about any 9 car setup. The one thing that you will need to add to this is to cut and rotate your upper beam about 1/8 to 1/4 in. This all depends on your car and if you have a 1 or 2 seater and how the weight is distributed front to back.
My thiery is that if the front-end is not working freely and you are not getting total travel then you are not going to be able to get the best and fastest ride you can. A stiff front-end will through off the entire handeling of the car as well as beat the snot out of the driver and parts.
Well hope I did not totaly confuse you, If I can be of any other help to you don,t hesitate to ask.
Rob Stapp #975
Are you still planning on running the SNORE race here in Barstow in Nov.?
Just a couple of extra notes on setting up your front-end, After you have everything together and you go out and test run, I call this beating in the new parts. when you get back retighten the ball joints and then double nut them with either 2 stock nuts or a jam nut from the hardware store then don't touch them again until post race. also check your wheel bearings for snug and silicone or shoegoo all the brake springs in place.
What kind of shock set up are you using? and springs?
I do not remember if you said your car was brand new or a rebuild so all of this stuff will take some time to set up and test and retest. and a couple of races under your belt will tell you if you are close to perfection if there is such a thing. TTYS Rob S. #975
the bushings have nothing to do with caster or angle once your set screws on your arms are tight
they cannot move, the ecentric adjusts your camber, sometimes when your center is rotated and
re-welded it can be off to one side or the other and you could possibly have to trim one bushing if
your arm will not go on all the way. by the way the delrins are by far the better bushing (or just
say the white one's when you order them)
Sadrace is one of the best in the business. Take what he says as gospel. He has helped me with other issues and has always been right.
Rob's advice about re-torquing is 100% on the money too.
BTW: Sadrace, I am looking at your lap times from last years Snowflake...Can't figure out how Jojo beat you! You had Class fast lap, followed by some more burners. 2 seconds is one of the closest margains I have ever heard of. I'd sure love to bust out a couple of 33 minute laps!
Thanks for all the help. I installed the bushings last night with o-rings and everything fit perfectly. Without all the input I would probably still be in the garage scratching my head. I will re-tighten and double nut after testing. Good info. Mike