fuel pump dieing?

GFC

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ok on my way home i noticed that when i put the pedal to the floor that my motor did not respond as it usually would(accelerating). at first i though it might be my clutch but when i went with my buddy 4 a test run so he could put in his 2 cents, it died on us. once we got it going again, the pump(obnochously loud on S10's) was making a louder than normal whine. now before i go out and by a new one or go get a fuel cell kit from kartek, what is your opinion? could it be somthing else? any way i can check for sure that it is indeed need the pump and not somthing else? thanks for any help in advance. iv recently replaced the fuel filter as well
 

GFC

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i got it started this morning, sprayed carb cleaner around teh intake connections, vacume lines, and throtle body. it dusnt seem to be a vacume prroblem. i took it for a test drive around town becuse it didnt seem to be exibiting any of the previous problems. BUT once it warmed up, it started hesitating again. now when i did smog, the unburnt fuel was rather hi, but low enuff to pass smog. would a CAT cause this kind of problem? Any way to test it with out replacing it? i plan on getting a pressure tester to check the flow from the fuel pump tomorrow just to make sure that isnt the problem. im going to run some 91 octane in addition to some fuel injector cleaner thru it to see if it is possibly the ingectors that are fouling up. I HATE CHASING PROBLEMS! i just hope i get it right the first time instead of replacing some hi dollar parts that didnt need to be replaced.
 

1992f150

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If the cat is bad then you can use a heat gun to see if it is hotter than the rest of the exhaust system (I think 200 degrees). When the cat is working, it produces heat as it converts the unburnt fuel. If you had unburnt fuel, then the cat *could* be bad. Even if it is bad, you might have another problem with the engine that is the real problem. A poorly running engine can fry a cat because the cat gets too hot, so if you replace a bad cat it will just get fried again.
If the fuel pump wasnt putting out enough, or was restricted via the filter or whatever, then it would cut out at the higher rpms as the engine will want more fuel. A clogged cat would also cut out at higher speeds.
Hope that helps you some....running a diagnostic scan would be a good idea too.
When it died would it start right up again?
 

GFC

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it wouldnt fire right back up, it would crank, kinda run 4 a second or two, sputter and die. i JUST did a fuel filter about 1/2 month ago.
the check engine light did come on( a good thing) im gunna try and run it over to my buddies shop to get the diagnostics done on it. and possible a sniffer test to see if it is the CAT. the reason that lead me to think it may be the cat is that is that it seems to do this once the car is up to temp. i ALSO did a bedcage on it. i had to relocate the charcole canister and am wondering it there is a vacume problem that may be related to the relocation( pinched line or somthing) i also need to make sure that there are good connections on the fuel tank filler hose (also a vacume thing). thanks for the help guys. keep them coming and ill let u know when i get this piece fixed
 

1992f150

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well a burnt out cat wouldnt make the problem you are describing, just higher emissions and might run alittle poor (but not stall and die) if you have an o2 sensor after your cat. A clogged cat might but it would do it right away, wouldnt matter if it was cold or hot. If you nail it while its cold is the problem still there?
Start with the code scan and fuel pressure test then post the results.
 

GFC

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good points made 1992f150 about the cat. ill post the results tomorrow when i get down and dirty.
here is what i was PM'ed
"From: Mintychip

What's up,
I have a 94 s10 with the V6 and I've had the same problems, but much worse. Until I figured out the problem I was being left stranded on the freeway all the time.
What is most likeliy the problem is the electrical connection going into your fuel tank. There is a flange on the top of the tank, where the fuel goes in and out, that holds the fuel pump and the sending unit. There are 4 wires that go through that flange in a wierd, 90 degree grommet. On the other side of that grommet there is a connection for all 4 wires and it gets really loose and may start arcing (mine did). You can either fix the connecter or bypass it all the way. I fixed mine and up until yesterday it worked perfect, so tomorrow I am going to bypass it all together and hard wire the pump into the system. To get to all of this you have to drop the tank or cut a hole in your bed. Now would be a good time to changa your fuel pump since the tank is out. Use a genuine Chevrolet and NOT an aftermarket one. They don't last. Hope this helps. I would have posted it in the forum, but it won't let me. "

this is very possibly my problem as well. i just recently had teh bed off while i built my bedcage and it could have fouled up some of the wiering while i was at it. Thanks 4 teh help, ill keep you posted on my results tomorrow(monday)
 

GFC

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well, as of now the problem is fixed, but i will be taking it for a testdrive from escondido to carlsbad to have it scanned and just test it out. iv relocated my air/temp sensor on my intake. acupple of weeks ago, the wiering came apart and caused all kinds of trubble simmilar to what i was experiencing. at that point i had a shop run a scanner on it and fix it. simple wiering problem, no biggie. the other day, the problem described happened to me in an intersection and i poped the hood to check on the wiering. it had come apart... the shop did a 1/2 ass job re wiering it. NOW comes the stupid part on my behalf. we desided to soder the wires this time around but w/o paying too much attention, we sodered the two wires coming from the sensor together and the two wires going to the sensor together. (im a complete dumb azz for this) found this out when we looked into replacing the sensor because we thought it might have gone bad. my thoughts are that the check engine light code is going to read 4 that sensor. the computer didnt know if there was any air getting in the intake so it leaned the SHI@T out of the fuel/air mixture to the point that it would only crank over, sputter and die. I'll post again with the results of the testdrive and hopfully they will be good ones. thanks for all that helped
 

GFC

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well, got under the truck and was lookin around. found that one of the three O2 sensors was loose(i flicked it and it shook, then i unsrewed it easily by hand) im gessing cold air was getting sucked in at this location causing it it lean out the fuel mixture. i drove it around and it seems to be fine. ill post again regarding my problem if it happens again.
 
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