When we started racing our truck it didn't have power steering. We have since added power steering and I wouldn't race without it, it makes it so much easier to drive, the steering wheel dosen't get ripped from your grip like it used to.
I had a 92 2wd with out power steering and it was pain to steer when parking (not horrible but definnitly annoying) and that was with little tires too. I wouldn't ditch it unless you had a real good reason to.
i use non-power on my race toyota, and have no problems with it. i do however work with a hammer and anvil all day, so that might be the difference. i was just talking to vance, he changed his to power and says it feels a lot better to him. i guess it works either way.
im not sure if the power and non power box are the same, it seems like they would have different steering ratios, but i cant say for sure.
Toyota has one of the best PS setup going, its not too easy not too hard. When we put the steering quickener on our truck we needed more PS action, there is a little vacuum unit on top of the pump that you can adjust to make a little softer and I assume a little harder. I didn't read in the manual what its for but it did make the steering at idle in the driveway feel a little easier so maybe experiment with it a little or read up and see what it's there for...Curt
good to hear, i never realized it was adjustable!! thanks, i just didnt like the over-assist feeling but ill dial it down a little and definately keep it. Im running a 4x4 box simply becuase it is so much more stout. you should compare the 2 next to each other the 4x box is hugely overbuilt!
what are you race guys using for brake master cylinders? I have a 1" wilwood master cyl laying around the shop tha ti was thinking of using, but i would loose the booster obviously. how does that feel?
We wnt to the Willwoods in a hanging pedal design to do 2 things, seperate the front and rear M/C's to better balance the way oversized Monte Carlo calipers we have in the rear and to get the whole assembly inside the truck so we could quit fabricating around it all the time. So far I'm just happy Patty doesn't use the brakes much when she races, they suck, you really have to gorilla down on them to make them stop.....I need to experiment with the M/C's some more to get the balance right between pedal pressure and pedal throw. The larger the cylinder the more fluid, less throw, harder you have to push to get a specific clamping pressure at the wheels, the smaller cylinder has less flow, more pedal throw, but easier to push to get the same clamping pressure at the wheels. The real problem is balancing all of this so you don't need to goriila the pedal, your wheel cylinder will clamp good, and you don't run out of pedal....For me it's kind of like suspension, fix one angle and it screws up 2 more...Keep massaging until you get the best compromise...Curt
I had a 91 Toy 2wd that had no power steering,stock was not a problem but when I had added the T.C. front kit and the 31"s you definetly had to throw some elbow in it.But I sold that truck and now have a 90 4wd Toy with power steering and A.C. and the thing drives like Grandma's Caddy pretty sweet.Just rambling!
Curt, what is the piston size of your "Monte Carlo" calipers ? Or can you tell me if the pad p/n has either 'D52' or 'D154' in it ?
If you can give me that info and what the piston size of the front calipers is I should be able to give you some ballpark suggestions for m/c bore sizes. PM or email me.
Assuming that you have 4wd front calipers and the stock pedal (4.4:1 ratio), a 1.0" m/c will be an excessively firm pedal.
Assuming you keep the low ratio pedal you're looking for a .700 bore m/c, but you will have over 5" of pedal travel.