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Ghetto Fab(rication) -- homebrew longtravel

geoff

Well-Known Member
I took the stock lowers made upper and lower gussets, extended the gussets 3" and made all new uppers, keeping the stock location and geometry.

Now that i have played with it, with 31" BFG AT tires, the tires lift off the ground when the headlights are at 31.5" off the ground, and it cycles 12.5" with no spring. I will set up something for bumpstops and for shocks this weekend, once i put the motor back in.

I dont really know what would be good to do in terms of changing upper arm length, so i extended that 3 1/2" exactly too, but for fun, i milled slots in the upper where it meets the the ball joint, this way i can move the arm a little, i marked where the 0 location is and stamped lines at every 1/8". I may play around and see what i can do with the camber gain. any ideas would be appreciated.


Mathmatics is the language of nature.
 

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geoff

Well-Known Member
Here is the back of the upper where it mounts to the stock points.

Oh and the lower is blue becuase i had no more flat black. It was some hammer finish blue from home depot that i painted a BMX frame 2 years ago... i think its gonna go flat black tonite tho, its just too bright.

Mathmatics is the language of nature.
 

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Mike_HKmtrsprts

Well-Known Member
Ya you dont want your blue arms to get confused with craptech's so I would go with black....beat it till it breaks... :)
 

sam_i

Well-Known Member
looks excellent!! keep us posted.
Would like to see more pics if possible.
Did you make a strut frame to help with mounting the strut bar?

samir
 

sam_i

Well-Known Member
just looked at your pics again - you made your own strut bar - never mind my earlier post - good idea though

samir
 

geoff

Well-Known Member
I took a long piece of threaded stud, ran it through the stock LCA then attached the strut bar/radius rod 11 inches forwards from that point, and just fabbed the arm up. This ensured that it would be on the same axis as the LCA making sure theres no binding. This was my first attempt at making anything for offroad so it worked alright. I just need to make the strut frame once the motors in and then i can go find out if it works allright.

Mathmatics is the language of nature.
 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
Just an fyi, take a look at the slightly earlier trucks. They have real cast iron 2 piston fixed calipers instead of those sliding pos'

TS

"Teach you all I know and you're still stupid"
-- Howdy Lee
 

geoff

Well-Known Member
cool!! thanks for the heads up. Which years does "early trucks" consist of ?? I think i have a pair of 84 spindles in the backyard actually <fingers crossed>

Oh and anyone who needs some stock lowers, stock uppers stock sways with front and rear mounts, or a set of 84 spindles let me know!!! ill hook you up cheapppp <especially if i dont have to ship... like Free ninety nine>



Mathmatics is the language of nature.
 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
The change happened within the early 80's body style. I think it was an '82 that I looked.
It's remotely possible that the '80-'85 4wd front calipers (4 piston fixed) will also bolt on. Have yet to investigate this.

TS

"Teach you all I know and you're still stupid"
-- Howdy Lee
 

Tyson

Well-Known Member
are the spindles from an 84 Toyota the same as spindles from a 94 Toyota? I'm going to be making some 3" Toyota lift spindles but I need a set first as a starting point.

You may beat me in the flats, but watch out in the whoops.
 

JasonHutter

Well-Known Member
Just a thought, after doing your allignment and you have the right amout of the shims in between the frame the the cross shaft that holds your upper a-arms on. I would remove those and find a stack of washers that are the same thickness and put those on. I used to have problems braking those bolts because the shims would work their way out eventually while pounding through the desert and when they come out you will get too much play in there and sheer the bolts off. This sucks while driving fast!

Jason
 

BIG_FAT_LOSER

Well-Known Member
Good idea!!!!!! Just happend to me this weekend. Bolts loosened up previously, did not think much of it , then when I tightend it back up I unknowingly ruined the threads, and when I hit a small ledge crossing a wash they pulled out, causing a slight "course deviation "

<font color=red>PAT KAPKO</font color=red>
<font color=yellow>Fab by travolta</font color=yellow>
 

DPpatrol

Well-Known Member
Good idea on the washers, the bolts on my yota like to do that same thing. Never thought about washers though. Very cool.

jason
 

jeff

Moderator
This trick works very well on the 2wd S-10 trucks too... did it to my own after losing the shims way too many times.

Aloha
 
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