Good napa fleet series ball joints

[singlehanded]

Just got them for my ranger uppers and lowers they were 300+tax. But I think they are worth the extra cash. heres some pictures they got a blue boot. Just for anyone who might need balljoints in the future, I coulnt find my old thread to post picture so just made a new one.
late

 

[singlehanded]

2

 

[singlehanded]

3

 

[Kritter]

They are real nice but they stopped warrantying them for us after a few returns. We run them on the race truck and they hold up to some abuse.

 

[Tomack]

Just a little word of advice. Try to save the old castle nut. I would try not to use the lock nut they give you for the upper. Use the old castle nut and drill the ball joint shaft after you get it tighten and cottor pin it. Just a little extra insurance. But you need to get a good drill bit ,at least a couple 1/8" will work. And be easy with it.

 

[kjmiller1]

damn, did I buy the cheapo crapo ball joints? I just baught some moogs last week, all four with s&h for a 110 bucks and I got the "better" ones. Maybe its just because I have a different truck, a 93 f150. They look good and their greasable, but does anybody recomend I return them for something else before I put them in?

 

[singlehanded]

It kinda all depends on what you plan to do with the truck. I just got my fullsize so my ranger will be on road probably less than 1000 miles a year. It will be racing mdr when I get the cage finish and hook up my cell, trips to glamis and rialto and testing in barstow and lucerne. One mdr race will put much stress on the balljoints.
So ib your not racing moog should be alright, but I dont want to take in chances with a race truck or chance moog joints after every race. Anyone racing mdr whats been the life of your balljoints and what kind were they. Any ranger beam info would be cool.

 

[hoeker]

if it's a race truck return them for the ones pictured, if it's a street ride they will be fine.

www.rosshoek.com

 

[AaronDixon]

We race a 'stock mini' ford ranger in BITD and have used every different style of balljoint made... The longest they last is about 500 miles. Granted, we are running 35s with very little suspension travel, but have never broke one. I have gone to the Kragen or AutoZone brand. Lowers usually last a little longer than the uppers, but not much. The uppers usually have about 1/8" of slop in them when we take them off. Ford OEM are good, but not much better than anything else.

 

[hoeker]

ford oem are the cheaper version of the dana joint shown above, still a better joint than moog, but no where near as good as the dana lifetime joint pictured.

www.rosshoek.com

 

[NORCALf150]

so would you guys recommend those ball joints for an f150 with I beams, im running the moog's now and i got some slop in the upper

 

[hoeker]

ibeams are not as hard on ball joints as a-arm suspensions, you will be able to get by with a less expensive joint if you want, but i would still go with the dana joints from napa, the less expensive non-lifetime warranty joint is still better than the moogs.

www.rosshoek.com

2 days to the CORR opener at Dresser, WI

see you there!

 

[blind655]

I went to my local NAPA today to get some of the "fleet series" ball joints and they didn't even know what I was talking about! They called a few other stores and they were told that they haven't been made for about 6 years. I went ahead and got some ball joints from them, they said it was their "heavy duty" ones and when i looked at them they had the blue dust cover like the fleet ones. I dont know maybe they are not called fleet anymore or they just dont know what the heck they are talking about! Here is a pic of the ball joints i got

later
Mike

 

[singlehanded]

Ya, that looks like them how much were they?

 

[blind655]

they were $38.19 for one. I just got the uppers from napa, i already have some McQuay Norris(SP?) for the lowers. Are they any good?

 

[singlehanded]

I not sure mine were for a ranger and they were about 80 bucks each so those might be cheaper ones!

 

[blind655]

I was told they make a cheeper one, but thease were the better ones

 

[DMSRACE]

Those are they good ones..they do have a cheaper line, but you got the right ones...they made the fleet tuff series into their heavy duty line...as far as ibeams not being as hard on B/J's as an a-arm, i totally disagree...we wiped out a set at Laughlin, and they were brand new....

 

[desertracer]

I decided to bring back this post as it is time for me to get some new bj's for the upper arms on my chevy. Are the napa fleet quality bj's the ones to get for this application? Besides ditching my Fabtech kit what can i do to make these things live a little longer? I tried getting a bigger bumpstop for the upper arm after I changed out the bj's about 6 months ago and it hasn't saved me too much. Would limit straps on the lower arm save them? I am to the point that I don't care about the travel anymore, I just want a front end that will hold together. I am heading off to college in the fall so i just want a reliable truck to get me to and from school and out to the desert. I need to solve this problem soon. Thanks

 

[empire231]

a limit strap will probably do the trick. because it will take the stress off of the balljoints when your truck maxes out on downtravel! just make sure the limit strap kicks in before your suspension reaches full droop.