header problems

DANKFAB

Well-Known Member
I bought some Pace Setter headers a few weeks back, got em on just as the instructions described and there is some exhaust leaking from the cylinder head. I loosened it up, cleaned the surface again and re-torqued the bolts, but still leaking. Is there some kind of gasket goop or sealer I can put on there to stop the leak? Its not a very big leak, but any exhaust leak isn't good especially from the head. Thanks for any help.
Brandon

"Carpe Diem" Sieze The Day!
 
i was once gonna buy some pace-setters for my supra but a friend that owns an auto parts store recommended i get a different brand. he was telling me that theyre notorious for warping and causing exhaust leaks.
I dont know if theres anything you can do.
 

DANKFAB

Well-Known Member
I tried looking for different brands but this was the only one that carries a set for my vehicle(2.2L Chevy)
Are there any other brands that might have some for my setup?

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cleartoy

Well-Known Member
Dank, pull that header off and go to the local muffler shop and have them machine it flat for you. Its probably warped and never gonna seal like that. Needs to be flat.

94 Toyota stdcab 2x4
99 Yamaha YZ250

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DANKFAB

Well-Known Member
well that sucks. I guess I will have to pull it out either way, so machining should do the trick? Is it possible the flange could warp again?
Brandon

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NicksTrix

Well-Known Member
loc-tite ultra copper silicone works great. if the header has a one piece flange, you could try cutting that one cyl loose so you could pull it flat to the head. that sometimes helps. can also use a belt sander on the face of it if it's not flat.
good luck
 

DANKFAB

Well-Known Member
do i gotta pull the header off to apply the silicon or can I just go around the edges of the gasket? It does have a one piece flange, but I think cutting it would be my last option if nothing ekse works, thanks for the advice
Brandon

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Kritter

Krittro Campbell
what is the thickness of the flange? That tells you the quality at first glance. If it is thin...machining will only make it warp faster.

Kris
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.barneysprecision.com/fabproducts.htm> Fab Parts</A>
 

cleartoy

Well-Known Member
Yeah you need to pull it off.

Any decent header will have a 3/8" flange. If the header flange is not flat, it will NEVER seal completely.

Yes it can warp again. Normally, if you run it with loose or broken bolts it will warp.

94 Toyota stdcab 2x4
99 Yamaha YZ250

Got Sand??
 

DANKFAB

Well-Known Member
it got a 3/8 flange nothing thin about it, I hope the silicon works so I won't have to cut the flange. Like I said before it's a very small leak, but it can't be there.

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bajaruner11

Well-Known Member
DANKFAB do yourself a favor, take the header back off and have it machined flat like suggested. Putting silicone on a leaky exhaust gasket is a poor bandaid that will give you one or two days of "it's fixed". Before you reassemble the header get yourself a set of the "Stage8" self locking header bolts (any speed shop or mail order from summit). These special bolts are made just for headers and have have a special little tab that keeps them from backing out as all header bolts like to do. Also on the gasket use a good hi-quality gasket (fel-pro race series) not some cheap paper thing, and use a fair coating of ultra-copper sealant. No more leaks!
 

DANKFAB

Well-Known Member
What about the comment someone gave to cut the flange to allow each cylider to be torqued more individually? I wasn't planning on hacking up my shiny new exhaust, but machining it will cost money that I shouldn't have to spend. This F#$^kin' thing should have come flat and I shouldn't even be having to ask how to fix it. I already bought some Copper silicon, and I was thinking of getting a better gasket since the one they gave me is a paper one. Plus I phoned Pace Setter yesterday to ask them for an exchange since this one is defective, but haven't heard back, of course! Thanks for the help.
Brandon

"Carpe Diem" Sieze The Day!
 

hoeker

Well-Known Member
check it for straight, it may not be warped. headers typically come with junk gaskets, that may be your only problem. get some good felpro's and try it. i have never had success with using any sylicone or other adhesive on headers.

good luck

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Eric_M

Well-Known Member
well, since i had a similar problem with my header when in first put it on my toyota, i tried the downey gasket that came with the kit and put copper silicone (sp) stuff on it and it lasted 3 days. then started to sound worse and worse. so after talking with a few people, they said to run a stock gasket with NO adheasive/silicone what so ever. run it dry as a bone they said, and its been on my truck for about a month and i havnt even had to re-torque the bolts (yet anyway) but a dry stock gasket did the trick for my truck. my .02

stupid people shouldnt breed!
 

DANKFAB

Well-Known Member
Some say not to use any copper silicon and some say it works Great. What do I do?? I am definitely NOT gonna cut my flange, but I think trying my stock metal gasket without the goop will be what I do first. I will let ya'll know if it works or not. If the goop is so highly recommended, why wasn't there any on the stock setup?? I just wanna get this stupid problem solved without having to take this header off a million times or having to pay out the A$$ for some machining. Thank you guys for all your help!! I really appreciate it.
Brandon

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tim_krueger

Well-Known Member
I've put on 4 or 5 sets of headers or manifolds and never had this process fail me, as crazy as it sounds. Find a flat area of concrete and grind the header surface that meets the head. Just rough it up a little, and make sure it's flat. Install the header with Ultra Copper on both parts,and NO gasket. I've done this on a couple 22RE's , a 454, and the 360 in my ford, check the bolts in a couple of days, and no leaks. Just Advice. Good Luck!

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DANKFAB

Well-Known Member
Now I am really confused! One person says stock gasket, no goop solves the problem. One says to machine down the flange and get a better gasket than paper and that will solve the problem. One says cut your flange to get better torque on each section of the header to solve the problem. now I am not supposed to use any gasket but do use some goop to solve the problem. So which one would YOU choose???? Don't get me wrong I appreciate the help, but I don't wanna keep taking this thing off, ya know!

"Carpe Diem" Sieze The Day!
 
Keep something else in mind: some headers have the tubes and a welded bead slightly protruding from the inside of the flange to help in sealing, so machining the flange will machine off the ends of the tubes and/or the bead if the Pace Setter header is made that way. I agree with those who said the gasket quality is a problem. When applying the sealant, let it dry completely before installing the header. Also, you may want to slot the holes at each end of the gasket, install the header with the end bolts loose, then slip the gasket in place. Make sure that the gasket sealant is rated for high temps. As an alternative, you can paint the gasket with aluminum or stainless steel paint; it will act as a sealant. I used to cut the flange on Datsun L18 Series headers which had the same problem as yours; it worked, but I don't think Pace Setter would approve. Use the Stage 8 locking bolts. You should call Pace Setter one more time and give them a chance to fix the problem or advise you on the proper installation technique. I don't know if he's still there, but my contact was General Manager Fred Gerle (602) 266-1964 or Joe Lee, Customer Service Manager. Also try tech@pacesetterexhaust.com

Joel Mollis
 

DANKFAB

Well-Known Member
Do I let the silicon dry onto the header or the gasket? Then with the header just slightly bolted in on the outside, slip the gasket on? Did I get that right?

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