Heat treat or cryo treat

Dirtracer 619

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So i have a rearend housing im getting ready to buy has 4130 axel tubes and mild steel center section. The manufacture offers heat treating on the tubes.
But when i get it home i will need to weld a bunch of link brackets and tabs ect. So.....

Wont that nulify the heat treatment? So what would be better
heat treatment after welding all my stuff ( if i could find somewhere with a big enough over). Or cryo treat it.

Do any of you guys have and experience using cryo treating on rear housings Thanks for any advice.
Or maybe i dont need to do anything. Offroad race truck application
Bent the crap out of last stock 9"


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Chris Tobin

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I'm NOT at all an expert... but, wouldn't you want to go with all 4130 or all mild steel and not mix and match when building a stressed component like a rear axle assembly??? Will your brackets and tabs be 4130 or mild steel?

Seems to me that with any 4130 you would want to heat treat AFTER all welding is completed. I have no idea on cryo treating, I know it is used for gears and some other parts, but does it normalize the metal as needed with the heat treat for the 4130?

Honestly stuff like this is one of the reasons I plan to stick with mild steel DOM and plate throughout my build so that I don't have to figure out these types of things and run the risk of having my cage or something else fail because it was not properly heat treated and was brittle and broke on impact... I do watch Forged in Fire though, so I am learning!!! jajaja
 

partybarge_pilot

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Don't waste the money if your going to weld on it more. You will still have the HAZ on all the tabs you weld on.Even if you weren't going to weld on it more I wouldn't waste the money on HT for a mild center section.

Cryo, save your money for a good truss, it will do more for you in the long run.
 

Dirtracer 619

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Well i went back and looked it doesnt actually say mild steel center it only says tubes are 4130 so guess i will have to call and ask
The housing i am going to get is the camburg pre runner 3.5

Party barge. HAZ on the tabs??

Chris thats kinda what im thinking. Just heat treat the whole thing after im done. Just no one in my local area has a large enough oven

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Josh 8

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Yeah. Don’t worry about heat treat with a mild steel center. Are you using a track 9 center? If so just truss it up well and don’t big deal it. The center is the weak part. The tubes won’t break.

Ad some internal gussets inside the center if it doesn’t have them.
 

Chris Tobin

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Yeah. Don’t worry about heat treat with a mild steel center. Are you using a track 9 center? If so just truss it up well and don’t big deal it. The center is the weak part. The tubes won’t break.

Ad some internal gussets inside the center if it doesn’t have them.
Does he need the expense of the 4130 axle tubes even??? Would mild be cheaper and just as strong when trussed?
 

Josh 8

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Well if its a grand national full floater rear with a track 9 center he may as well get the 4130 tubes. I have never had one with mild tubes. They would probably be fine on a prerunner but I have not gone that route.
 

Chris Tobin

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For my AAM 11.5 rear end we retubed it to match the front track width at 3-inches wider per side and we used DOM 4-inch diameter .5-inch wall tubing with an Artec Industries truss kit and the factory cast center section. It may weight a ton, but I don't think it will bend!
Well if its a grand national full floater rear with a track 9 center he may as well get the 4130 tubes. I have never had one with mild tubes. They would probably be fine on a prerunner but I have not gone that route.
 

Dirtracer 619

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Camburg 3.5" tubes, and hubs Not the full race all 4130 4" version but its what i can afford. They call it a prerunner housing but it will be on a 1450 race truck. Im really hoping it will be enough


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Josh 8

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Camburg 3.5" tubes, and hubs Not the full race all 4130 4" version but its what i can afford. They call it a prerunner housing but it will be on a 1450 race truck. Im really hoping it will be enough


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That’s probably going to be plenty. I would not worry.
 

Bert is my name

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I've used cryo treatment on brake rotors and even the pads on a customer's raptor. He drove the kiss out of that thing and would blow through brakes all the time. After crypt treat the longevity of the brakes increased significantly. Not sure if it will actually normalize a welded component but it does seem to improve wearability of sliding and rotating components. If I remember correctly it was about 150 bucks to do the brake parts.
 

partybarge_pilot

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We cryoed the pads and rotors on the race truck once. Would not stop for poop. Threw the pads away.Heat cycled the rotors a few times with new pads and they came back.

Those housings are plenty stout, get the rear truss and call it a day. (Jerry just gasped in disbelief)...........
 

Dirtracer 619

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Dont get me wrong Camburg is the standard for quality and i have dreamed of getting one of these for a couple years, I have the front hubs and could not be happier. Currently i am just putting the bucks together to get this awesome housing, was just a little unsure on how heat treating requirements are. And finding a place to do it for the whole axel, after welding if it even needed it


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Dezert00Taco

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Dont get me wrong Camburg is the standard for quality and i have dreamed of getting one of these for a couple years, I have the front hubs and could not be happier. Currently i am just putting the bucks together to get this awesome housing, was just a little unsure on how heat treating requirements are. And finding a place to do it for the whole axel, after welding if it even needed it


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just get the housing with the truss weld on your tabs and run it. i wouldn't worry doing any sort of treatment too it especially since your pinching pennies to get it.
 

gawdodirt

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Party is correct. Cryo rotating parts for wear and friction. Doing brake rotors makes them a bit too hard to gain the heat from friction. There has to be a sacrificial part, like pads. or rotors. Choose one.
 
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