Has anyone had any issues with the Hydromat, the website says they are good for a couple years but you are unable to service them for cleaning. Looking to get a 11"x11" for a Ford 331 with a 750 areomotive fuel pump.
i read another post on hydromats, he ran two because he allready had two pick ups, cured his fuel issues when cell got below 19 ga, i would also run a Much bigger fuel pump pre filter, i was allways told most pumps like to push fuel out, not ' pull' fuel in
My HydraMat is 5 years old and I've run nothing but crappy USA and Mexico pump gas through it. Zero problems to date but I've only run +/- 1000 gallons of fuel through it.
Option A. In a standard fuel tank without any foam... HydraMat should be good for years and year and years. And years. And then probably more years.
Option B. Worst case scenario. In a race cell with older (and possible crappy) foam that you've been dumping crappy-ass Ethanol laden fuel into the foam may cause problems. So your answer depends on the conditiona and quality of your foam. But in that case the HydraMat is the least of your worries. You've already failed your vehicle by running crap foam or crap fuel.
Let's go with Option B. The HydraMat could be serviced in an emergency if you back fed pressurized fuel to temporarily expunge whatever gunk had accumulated on the HydraMats outer surface. Or... you could remove the HydraMat and do the same (reverse the pump) to dump the contaminants outside of the cell. For the cost... and what it costs to be stuck in the Dez with no fuel... new Ethanol safe foam is cheaper insurance. More on that later.
Always, ALWAYS get the largest -X that you can afford. As a WTF side note... who the heck would run a -6 on anything with more than a N/A 4 or 6-cylinder motor? I've got a lazy Ford 408w with a Holley TBI system and I'm running -8 (because I'm cheap-ish).
If the HydraMat plugs up with gunk or deteriorating foam particles you could yank it up and out of the cell, disconnect it, drop the pickup hose back into the cell and then pump (or suck) "dirty" fuel to the engine to keep going. Your "post" filter should be capable of allowing you to limp home should the best case scenario encounter a problemo. In Tank pumps will tolerate small particles of foam for quite a while. A lot more so than regular dirt. The external post pump filter should be positioned in such a way that it's changed easily (and bring more than 1 spare). Even if you eliminate the HydraMat the post filter should keep the carb or injectors happy long enough to make it home.
You are correct on the suction being at least -8 but -6 on the pressure side can flow 1000hp. If you have larger on the pressure line the fuel is just sitting there getting hot on non return systems. So -6 can be better than -8 on pressure side in some set up’s. Most factory cars have -6 even with higher HP and those cars can be highly modified and still use only -6.
In our system our guy got confused and assumed the suction could be -6 since the pressure side was -6. Big difference between the two.
Holly says do not have a pre filter as it’s just creates more restriction on the suction. Restriction on the suction side is really bad.
and IF possible, mount all the garbage at or below lowest tank pickup point, take advantage of siphoning effect( also use lock tight on shock bolts, 1200 mile road trip, driver side, , might be a weld nut striped out?,Fail