Holley Ref

BA_DirtDriver

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My truck dies when it hits a big down hill jump or whoop. I've been told it's probably a float problem. What I really need is a good carb reference guide/manual. Anybody have a good source. I searched under holley here but found nada. Motor is stroked 383 chevy. I will get carb specs tomorrow for more specifics. Thanks

Bret
 

Mike_HKmtrsprts

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I know back in day they used to dry sump the float bowls to keep that from happening! but I havent been around Holley's and the dirt too much lately...Mike
 

TxPhPrerunner

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The best way to fix this problem is to replace the carb. Either with the new Holly designed for off-road or a rochester carb (the edelbrock repops are good carbs). Of course a TPI set-up would be the very best solution. Any way you go sell the street carb to some hot rodder and buy an off-road set-up.
 

hoeker

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"The best way to fix this problem is to replace the carb" NO NO NO save the 5-800 bucks and fix what you've got, there is nothing wrong with it that some tuning won't fix.

my holley carb ref. manual lives about a mile from me, i'm no expert, but i'll help with what i can from 3 years off off-road racing with holley carbs. if it's flooding off bumps, jumps, hard Acc, or hard breaking it could be a couple things. first make sure your float levels are right, the front one should be 1/2 turn below the bottom of the window, or screw hole in the side of the bowl, the rear one should be about in the middle of the window, this is just a starting point, but generally works. the second biggest problem in the bumps is the bowl vent, if you're using a 4 bbl take a 6" peice of 5/16" line and connect the front and rear vents, then slit the top with a razor. this should be as high as possible under the air cleaner, and MUST be open to let air in the bowls. after both of these are done, go out and try it, adjust the float level until you don't have a problem, but don't go too low or you could starve the engine of fuel.

i never was a holley man, but now that i know how to make them work i wouldn't go any where else but fuel injection and that's illegal for me to run.

hope this helps

www.rosshoek.com
 

SpeedMetal

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I had a similar problem with my holley carb. The fix was an off-road needle and seat assembly that holley sells. I think it was like $25. Ever since I put that in the carb, I've had no problems. I'll try to round up a part #.
-Nate
 

tedmales

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they also have extended jets to keep themselves in the fuel. i think holley has an off road kit that includes them and the needle and seat. try e mailing holley or i think they even have a tech #. or a "good" speed shop.
 

Kritter

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take it to "the carb shop" and tell them what you want...then you never have to touch it after that.
 

ntsqd

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</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
I know back in day they used to dry sump the float bowls

[/ QUOTE ]

THAT is the best way.
 

BA_DirtDriver

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Tried the vent cross over and still stalled so on to the next adjustment. Also tested 7/13 in 105 F in Barstow and engine temp went to 230 and the truck died all together. Seemed like a vapor lock or something stomped gas but nada let it sit for 20 min and it fired and seemed to clear out and then idle just fine. Got hot again and same thing happened. Got back on trailer and called it a day.
 
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