Adam - not sure how well it will work on a side yard if that's what you are thinking. Think of how much tube sticks out of the end of the bender on larger stuff and how much it swings (this depends on the radius of the bend). Anyways - I haven't seen your side yard but it will most likely be pretty tight.
When bending a main hoop for a large or fullsize vehicle you need a ton of space... otherwise you are constantly adjusting the bender and knocking into things. I share a shop with another buddy and we've got a bender on a cart and it makes it a little easier because we can rotate the cart and keep the tube more or less stationary as we bend. If you hard mount your bender you'll need at least 10 feet in side to side and at least 20 feet for feeding the tube... assuming you are using 20+ sticks.
how did you mount it on a cart? is this a jd2 bender you're using? how do you anchor it to the ground? that's my main issue. i don't have a garage at my apartment so i have to use the bender at my mom's house and she doesn't want me to drill holes into her concrete... i thought about laying some concrete in her backyard behind a retaining wall that is at the bottom of a slope. that should give me a lot of room to swing the tubing. but i'm wondering how much concrete i need to pour? there will be a lot of torque required right? if i pour the concrete surrounded by dirt, what will keep the concrete base itself from twisting in the dirt?
I used 4 of those concrete inserts that are 1/2" OD and use 5/16" lag bolts. This is holding so far as long as you're just applying a twisting force to the base and not a upwards force like if you lean against the stand. I drilled into an existing pad that our last motorhome tire sat on. I don't think this setup would work to well if I was unbolting it a lot though because I think the inserts in the concrete would tend to pull out eventually. When I'm done with the bender I give it a coat of WD-40 and through a tarp over it bungeed around the base to keep moisture off of it.
I've got pretty much unlimited area to feed the tube into the bender the way I mounted it and I haven't measured but probably 10' of clearance at a 90 degree bend. If I need more room, I'll take the tubing over to JCA's house and use his hydraulic bender...
Our bender is not a JD2... it's a hydraulic bender that is hard mounted to the cart. You can make a JD2 stand that pivots, look to an engine stand for ideas. If you make a stand that pivots make sure you have a few pins to really lock it in place.
If you pour concrete it's going to take a while before you'll be able to mount the bender and not ruin the concrete. If it's an existing slab take your time and do it right. I've worked on a couple benders that weren't mounted well and they really suck and can foul your bends and your attitude in a hurry.
I have a model three bender and have converted it to air/hydraulic by using a 12 ton shock from harbor freight $80ish. I built a stand to mount the shock with wheels so it could swivel $50. Having a hydraulic bender for around $150 priceless. If your still trying to mount the bender and are planning to pour conctete you can always build the base and sink it into the concrete and just unbolt the bender to put it inside. It would be super strong.
My buddy and I mounted our JD bender in his small side yard, the cool part is that it opens out in to a big space where we have plenty of room for the bends. We poured our own footing and used 5/8" concrete bolts set into the concrete with the threads exposed. We leave our bender mounted to the stand and store it inside the shop when not in use. When we need to use it we just bolt it to the footing. I can post pics if need be.
sorry but it is the only picture of it I have. I put 2 wheels on it so I can move it in and out of the shop. I still have a little bit of work to do on the cart. I want to add a place to put all the dies and I want to put some more support tubes on the one side but it works well.