How to ID my carb???

atomicjoe23

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Hey. . .I'm carb clueless because I've grown up with EFI my entire life. . .and we've got a new project vehicle that's carb'd and I need to replace the fuel system. It's a '49 Jeep Willy's truck with a 350 SBC out of a '77 GMC pick-up truck.

Looks to be the stock carb (it doesn't say Holley or Edlebrock on it anywhere) there are a few stampings on it, but that's about it). The previous owner let it sit for 10 years and it starts with starting fluid but the fuel system is shot! So I'm replacing the fuel system from the tank to the carb and I need to figure out what carb adapters I need to buy to fit the AN-6 hose/fittings that I'm gonna be using.

I don't belong to a Chevy only forum so I figured one of you guys on here would probably be able to help me out. It's too dark to take a pic of the carb now, but I'll try to post one tomorrow.

Thanks!
 

Sparky

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Sparky

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Yup, that is your standard old Rochester Quadrajet. They can be a pain to tune, but they are a great carb in the hands of someone that can tune them. Edelbrock owns the tooling now and produces new replacement units.
 

BRINGTHERUCKUS

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SO MUCH RUST!!!!! damn, Id just get a Edelbrock Carb and intake kit, they dont cost too much and are reliable easy to work on and tune. not to mention dont rust as easily...
 

atomicjoe23

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Anyone know what size the threads are for it? I'm looking at the carb adapters now and I see about 4 different thread sizes for Quadrajet adapters.

I don't think it's the 1"-20 TPI. . .that seems WAY too big, but it could be the 7/8"-20 TPI although that's not much smaller.

The catalog says the 7/8"-20 TPI is for up to '74 Quadrajets and the 1"-20 TPI is for post '75 Q-Jets. . .my engine is out of a '77 GMC pick-up truck (at least that's what the paint marker on the valve cover says. . .this was obviously a salvage yard engine) but it just seems like 1"-20 and 7/8"-20 TPI would be too large of a fitting.

Is there a casting number on the carb somewhere that I can decode to figure out what year the carb is so I can get the right fitting?

Thanks!
 

atomicjoe23

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Yeah. . .tell me about the rust!

The Willy's sat for 10 years after the owner did the engine swap. . .the last two of it outside in the weather here in Western Washington!

but the body is in good shape (no dents, straight frame) and only a few small spots of surface rust (on the body anyway). . .it already has the 350SBC backed by a TH350 and a D18 twin stick t-case. . .and we only paid $800 for it.

I'm picking up a D60 front and a 14-bolt rear ($250 for both) for it this weekend and I'm picking up a set of 40" BFGoodrich MTR's mounted on some 17" 8 lug wheels later this afternoon ($500). . .plus the axles come with an NP205 so we can sell that to get some cash back. . .especially since I already have a spare NP205 here for our '79 F-150 4x4.

Anyway. . .the plan is to do it up like a GIGANTIC WWII era truck with some hot-rod style stuff done to the interior and the engine bay. . .so I'll be sticking with the rusty engine bay/carb for now just until I get a dual or tri-set of Holley 97 carbs for it. . .the adapter manifold for that are cheap but the H-97's are NOT!!!

I'm gonna weld up a stainless steel beer keg to use as a 15 gallon fuel tank that will be mounted in the bed and we're gonna be doing up a few other cool tricks as well. . .once we get the axles and we start making some visual progress on the thing I'll post a thread up on it if anyone is interested. . .if not I'll at least post up a link to the build-thread that I'm gonna have on one of the Jeep forums that I belong too.

Thanks for your help guys and if anyone knows what size adapter I need that would be GREAT!
 

john92223

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If memory serves me right, it takes a 1" wrench or socket to take it off. So it would probably be the 7/8"-20 TPI.
 

07FJRog

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Anyone know what size the threads are for it? I'm looking at the carb adapters now and I see about 4 different thread sizes for Quadrajet adapters.

I don't think it's the 1"-20 TPI. . .that seems WAY too big, but it could be the 7/8"-20 TPI although that's not much smaller.

The catalog says the 7/8"-20 TPI is for up to '74 Quadrajets and the 1"-20 TPI is for post '75 Q-Jets. . .my engine is out of a '77 GMC pick-up truck (at least that's what the paint marker on the valve cover says. . .this was obviously a salvage yard engine) but it just seems like 1"-20 and 7/8"-20 TPI would be too large of a fitting.

Is there a casting number on the carb somewhere that I can decode to figure out what year the carb is so I can get the right fitting?

Thanks!
there will be a number on it, just need some carb cleaner to find it., don't let the rust bother ya, a good cleaning and a rebuild kit and it will run great. This was the first carb I ever rebuilt in highshcool, ( took me a week):eek: lol, lotsa little things can come flying out at ya! my dad just laughed every night at me! hahahahaha
 

JEFFRPM

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The ID for that carb is on the left side [drivers side] above the secondary shaft going vertically up towards the air horn [air cleaner] usually starts with a 702xxxxxxxx
But the rest of the group is right dump it and install a edelbrock intake and carb or better yet put on the new pro products efi it programs itself in less than 3 hours they are the schizt:D
 

DBMETALWORX

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if memory serves me right, it takes a 1" wrench or socket to take it off. So it would probably be the 7/8"-20 tpi.
x2.. I ran these on my factory stock, they run like a raped ape, with the right carb guy!!!! Have 1 on my wagoneer that runs 7500 in the whoops...
 

scottm

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Ahh my favorite subject. I have been building sbc's since 1980. First of all, nothing is easier or cheaper to keep running than an old-school sbc. If it is a truck engine, it should be a 4-bolt block and have 1.94" intake valves. That is an excellent engine, much better than what went into cars in 77 (except corvetts, they had good ones too). I agree with everyone else - get an edelbrock performer aluminum intake, and an edelbrock or holley vacc secondary carb. That multi carb intake you mentioned will be hard to set up, and will not run as well as a good single carb. I would rather have the q-jet than a show 3 carb thing.

If it smokes, don't worry, its most likely the seals on the intake valves have died. Valve jobs on sbc's are easy, (and fun imo) and open the door to instant performance. Frankly I would just plan on a valve job, as the odds are 90% that the valve seals are shot and it will smoke. A performance valve job with new valves, bronze guides, and new springs (get rid of the stock exhaust valve rotators) will cost $500-600. For extra credit do a little pocket porting and guide blending. Put it back together with an edelbrock performer cam kit, intake and carb, and it will make an easy 300 hp for under $1000. Some people will say you will 'kill' the old short block if you fix the heads and make more power. Not true. If the bores look good when the heads are off, and if it has good oil pressure, the bearings are ok and you dont have to worry about the bottom end. Just keep it under 5500 rpm. My own race truck is living proof. I took the old engine out of my crew cab and threw on sweet World Products heads and a comp cams hydraulic cam. People who have been in my truck can't believe how well it runs, but I went overboard and spent about $1200 on my engine!
 

atomicjoe23

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That sounds about right. . .and was what I was thinking as well.

To throw a monkey wrench in the works the vehicle did come with a Hollye carb as well, I don't know which one (I will post pic's tomorrow once it's sunny again) but I think that the previous owner was having difficultry with it. I know the Q-Jet works so I'm thinking of sticking with it to get the vehicle running under it's own power and rebuilding the Holley in the meantime so that once I'm ready to start cleaning then engine compartment up I"ll have a clean, ready to go Holley waiting in the wings. . .

. . .picked up the 40" BFGoodrich MTR's on 17" Hummer H2 wheels today and they are HUGE!!! I'm pretty sure I'm gonna have to move the front leaf spring mounts forward (plus some inner fender trimming) to deal with wheel rub at full-lock just by rolling them up to the Willy's. . .I'm not sure about the rear yet, but they might be OK.

I also lucked out and picked up a 472 CID Cadillac big block short block today. . .for FREE!!! just need an oil pan, heads, and intake. . .which there just happen to be 3 472 Caddie's in the local salvage yard. . .should be able to pick up some heads, intake and oil pan/pick-up for pretty cheap and start a hot-rod engine build for a '49-51 Merc chop-top lead sled for a future project!!! YEA!!! and I'm picking up the 14-bolt rear/Dana 60 front this weekend for the Willy's to be able to actually run the 40" MTR's without immediately snapping the axles or R&P. . .
 

atomicjoe23

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there will be a number on it, just need some carb cleaner to find it., don't let the rust bother ya, a good cleaning and a rebuild kit and it will run great. This was the first carb I ever rebuilt in highshcool, ( took me a week):eek: lol, lotsa little things can come flying out at ya! my dad just laughed every night at me! hahahahaha
Yeah. . .tell me about the small flying objects!!! I've had the carb apart on our '01 Yamaha Kodiak 4x4 utility quad to address some issues after it rolled down the side of a mountian (lots of barrel rolls!!!) and the carb in my '01 Aprilia RS50 2-stroke 80cc sportbike and all those little springs and jets are a PITA. . .especially if you are just learning!!!

Ahh my favorite subject. I have been building sbc's since 1980. First of all, nothing is easier or cheaper to keep running than an old-school sbc. If it is a truck engine, it should be a 4-bolt block and have 1.94" intake valves. That is an excellent engine, much better than what went into cars in 77 (except corvetts, they had good ones too). I agree with everyone else - get an edelbrock performer aluminum intake, and an edelbrock or holley vacc secondary carb. That multi carb intake you mentioned will be hard to set up, and will not run as well as a good single carb. I would rather have the q-jet than a show 3 carb thing.

If it smokes, don't worry, its most likely the seals on the intake valves have died. Valve jobs on sbc's are easy, (and fun imo) and open the door to instant performance. Frankly I would just plan on a valve job, as the odds are 90% that the valve seals are shot and it will smoke. A performance valve job with new valves, bronze guides, and new springs (get rid of the stock exhaust valve rotators) will cost $500-600. For extra credit do a little pocket porting and guide blending. Put it back together with an edelbrock performer cam kit, intake and carb, and it will make an easy 300 hp for under $1000. Some people will say you will 'kill' the old short block if you fix the heads and make more power. Not true. If the bores look good when the heads are off, and if it has good oil pressure, the bearings are ok and you dont have to worry about the bottom end. Just keep it under 5500 rpm. My own race truck is living proof. I took the old engine out of my crew cab and threw on sweet World Products heads and a comp cams hydraulic cam. People who have been in my truck can't believe how well it runs, but I went overboard and spent about $1200 on my engine!
Thanks for the suggestions! The plan is to spend the majority of our time and attention on the engine/drivetrain and just make the body look like a cool used WWII truck. . .shouldn't be too hard on the body side of things since it spent the last 2 years outside and the 8 years prior to that just sitting. . .

. . .on an up-note, the H2 wheels that came with the 40" MTR's I picked up today look way better than I expected (not a big fan of them normally) and I think after a coat of OD green to match the truck they should look right at home and we won't have to waste any money on another set of tires. . .all in all I'm very happy so far, we spent $800 to get a running '49 Willy's with a 350 SBC/TH350, spent $500 for 4 40" BFGoodrich MTR's mounted on 17" Hummer H2 wheels (and should be getting a fifth spare as well from the same guy this next week for free) and will be picking up a 14-bolt full floater rear/Dana 60 front axles and NP205 transfer case for $250 this weekend. . .considering I already have a spare NP205 in the garage now I figure I can sell it and we are WAY ahead of where we should be!!!
 

atomicjoe23

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Hey like I said I will post pic's of the Holley tomorrow with better lighting (the lighting in my house at night for photos sucks), but I went ahead and grabbed the Holley and thought I would post up the ID stamping on it. . .doesn't mean anything to me. . .I was looking for a model number like 4150, 4160 or 4500, but this is all I can find on it. . .

. . .a stamping on the side of it above one of the side float bowls (if this was mounted the same way the Q-Jet is on my 350SBC it would be above the forward float bowl. . .although I thought the float bowls were laterally mounted not axially. . .but that's the way the throttle cable plate is oriented at this point in time) is: D4JL-9510-J, next line below: LIST-7128, next line below: 2557

There is a metal ID tag attached to the carb as well which says: Motorcraft (which makes me think Ford not Chevy) D4JL J, next line offset: 7J12

There are a few ink markings on the carb as well. . .they aren't entirely clear anymore, and some stampings on the bottom of the butterfly valves. . .I could make them out if it would help.

It appears to be an electric choke version of the carb. . .at least to me. I will post pic's tomorrow morning.

Help me ID this Holley carb and let me know if this would be a better bet for the engine.



BTW. . .I agree that a multi-carb set-up would be a lot more work to set-up but it ultimately look better for the vintage look that we would be going for with this particular project. . .a post-WWII rodded-out military truck from the '50's.

Thanks again for your help guys!!!
 

trmkars

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. . .a stamping on the side of it above one of the side float bowls (if this was mounted the same way the Q-Jet is on my 350SBC it would be above the forward float bowl. . .although I thought the float bowls were laterally mounted not axially. . .but that's the way the throttle cable plate is oriented at this point in time) is: D4JL-9510-J, next line below: LIST-7128, next line below: 2557

There is a metal ID tag attached to the carb as well which says: Motorcraft (which makes me think Ford not Chevy) D4JL J, next line offset: 7J12
That sounds like an OEM Ford Holley carb. If this is your list number "LIST-7128" then the second line is the build date -- 2557. The first three digits are the day of the year, and the last digit is the year.

So 255 should be build day, and 7 is the year. Since we only have the last digit of the the year you have to guess for the actual...

7 could be 1967, 1977, 1987, 1997, 2007... Well I am sure it is not a 1997 or 2007. Could be 67 or 87, but if I had to guess without seeing it I would say 1977.


Bottom line. This is an OEM carb, so don't waste your time with it -- this is the reason it was in a box, and not on the engine.

Here are some more Holley details from Holley.com:

QUESTION How do I find the "list" number on my carburetor?
ANSWER The list number for most performance and factory 2 and 4 barrel carburetors will be found stamped into the upper right hand corner of the airhorn or sometimes called the choke tower. On the 4150 HP models that do not have a choke tower the list number will be stamped into the mainbody behind the throttle linkage. This number is used to identify the carburetor and also used when needing service parts or renew kits.


When looking to buy a used performance Holley carb I would check the list number with this guide first.
Here is a link to Holley numerical listing (performance carburetors -- not OEM):
http://holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Carb%20Numerical%20Listing.pdf

This is a great guide to not only ID a Holley carb, but to also find out the orginal specs like jetting, power valves, discharge nozzles, etc... Use this info to bring the carb back to its base line.



I will watch for more pictures.... :)
 

manicmechanic

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The quadrajet is a great carb!!!! And I am not a carb fan.
When you talk about a 1" anything it must be the fuel inlet, they were a problem.
Funky seal setup and overtourqing damaged the threads.
The way I keep them running is to put an inline filter before the one on the carb and leave the one on the carb alone.
Right rear of the base plate or left front of the body should have a usable part #
Since you have a good idea where the engine/carb came from you should be able to get a kit from napa with multiple gaskets just match them up with the old ones.
 
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