how to ID the year of an engine?


Active Member
I have an engine sitting in my garage i purchased a few years ago. My project went south but i held on to this engine for future use. Well now wanting to use it I cannot for the life of me remember what year of vehicle it came out of.

It is a toyota tundra 4.7l (2uz-fe)
I cannot find a vin on the engine or ecm. It has a few different #'s but im not sure what is important and what is not.

Is there a way to id this engine using the #'s on there?
on the ecm it says:



...need the year for a potential smog legal swap in the future. if this was just a green sticker project it wouldnt matter as much. all help is much appreciated!


Mini Metal MOD
Don't know if this helps you much but I found this,

The 2UZ-FE is a 4.7 L (4,664 cc/284.6 cu in) cast iron block version built in Tahara, Aichi, Japan and at Toyota Motor Manufacturing Alabama. Designed for low-revving, high-torque SUV applications, its bore is 94 mm (3.7 in) and stroke is 84 mm (3.3 in).[1] Output varies by implementation, but one VVT-i variant produces 202 kW (271 hp) at 4800 rpm with 427 N·m (315 ft·lbf) of torque at 3400 rpm. JDM versions produce 173 kW (232 hp) at 4800 rpm and 422 N·m (311 ft·lbf) at 3600 rpm, while Australian models produce 170 kW (230 hp) at 4800 rpm and 410 N·m (300 ft·lbf) at 3600 rpm.[1]

Like the 1UZ-FE it has aluminium DOHC cylinder heads, MFI fuel injection, 4 valves per cylinder with bucket tappets, one-piece cast camshafts, and a cast aluminium intake manifold.


2003-2004 Lexus GX 470
1998-2005 Lexus LX 470
1998-2005 Toyota Land Cruiser
2003-2004 Toyota 4Runner
2000-2004 Toyota Tundra
2001-2004 Toyota Sequoia
Toyota Racing Development offered a bolt-on supercharger kit for the 2000-2003 Tundra and the 2003 GX 470.

Another 2UZ-FE variation adds VVT-i and electronic throttle control.


2005-2009 Lexus GX 470
2006-2007 Lexus LX 470
2005-2009 Toyota 4Runner
2006-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser
2005-2009 Toyota Tundra
2005-2009 Toyota Sequoia


Active Member
unfortunately i knew all of that already, but i appreciate the help...

I dunno if this helps either, but on the actual block the only real number i found that was cast into the block is : 9091150
It was cast in the rear right above where you would bolt up the transmission on what would be the passenger side


Well-Known Member
Some options for identifying the Toyota Tundra 4.7L 2UZ-FE which I'm assuming was sold in the US (otherwise info below may not apply), ranked easiest to hardest:

Option 1: just go to a Toyota dealer and make friends with the Parts dudes. Tell 'em your deal. Parts dudes are always very connected with the saavy Service Technicians right there in the shop, and any one of them they may have another way to tell you the year based off of the information you mentioned above plus the part numbers off the ECM. And, its hard to tell the experience with a parts guy, but some that have been around for a while know more than the books they look at so if possible maybe you will get some luck and find someone like this...might require going to the "older" Toyota dealers...and maybe hitting up more than one (once had a good Toyota parts guy that could tell me the year of the engine based off the crank bearing inserts...seriously. He's long since retired otherwise I'd send you to him).

Option 2: do you know if your engine has VVT and ETC? If it does, given the model years you have mentioned, it is possible that the VIN is written into the ECM. Get the p/n info off the ECM, go to the same friendly Toyota dealer parts contact mentioned above. If he can, using the ECM label info, have him look up what year that ECM fits into. Then find a "test" vehicle which fits the same description that you got from the parts guy and make friends with the owner. Temporarily swap ECMs. Now borrow and connect a Scan Tool, one that has either generic or enhanced/dealership level diagnostics (but can read a VIN out of the ECM), turn the Ign Key to run and select the appropriate vehicle/function on the scan tool to read out the VIN for you to see.

Option 3: Assuming you have the ECM, is it possible that you might have the factory wiring harness? If so, mock up the ECM wiring with a 12v source so that the ECM has Bat+ and SW Ign. Be mindfull of any high-current leads such as starter motor or alternator connections as these don't need to be errantly waving about randomly. Similar to above, connect a Scan Tool and select the appropriate function on the scan tool to read out the VIN.

Option 4: If the factory harness was not obtained when the engine came out of donor car, it becomes a more of a challenge but still do-able. A quick review of the ECM connectors (something like maybe 4, 5, or 6 connectors with maybe about 100 pins total on the ECM) for pin positions of Bat+, SW Ign, Ground, and Serial Communication lines for the list of vehicles you have above will have to be done...Nippondenso (ND) ECUs are pretty standard wrt connector pin assignments, but this wiring check would hopefully prevent wiring up any 'ol signal to the incorrect ECM connector pin. Anyway, once this is done wire the ECM up with Bat+, SW Ign, ground, and serial communication lines to the Data Link Connector (16p, sometimes called by Toyota in their service information as "DLC3"). Again use the Scan Tool method to get the VIN.

Just in case...whatza Data Link Connector? Its a 16 pin, "D" shaped male mechanical connector about 2" x 0.75", with female electrical terminals, which for that Toyota may have 5-8 wires going to it. On your engine harness its just part of the wires. In an actual Toyota vehicle, it is called "DLC3", and is on the drivers side, under dash, around the left kick panel area.

When u have the entire 17 characters of the VIN, look at position 10, as that char will tell you the Model Year (eg. "5" = 2005, "6" = 2006).

Now, if you have not already, one thing you should consider doing is go out to that engine and rotate the crankshaft 180deg. Then do that another coupla months later, and so forth, until its installed and running in the new rig. That engine has been sittin for a while and for a preventative measure its always good to move the valve train about 'cause the springs are getting squished and some memory may occur...think of it like this...would you like to have a pallet of BFG's sitting on your head for months on end? haha u get the humor I hope.

The above might appear overwhelming, but hopefully it gives you some idea/background/next steps. Let us know what happens, and good luck to you, man!

Peace, out, BCarr


Active Member
wow, phenominal info. honestly a bit overwhelmed by it LOL, but with a little time ill make this happen. I do have the ecm and factory harness and im relatively sure it is not a vvti equippted motor so i will be playing with some battery power.

Thankyou so much. ill keep you updated