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http://www.9inchfloater.com

dcman008

Well-Known Member
Anyone have one? There have been a few people talking about them throughout the years but has anyone bought one yet? If so what are your thoughts good bad scary?

I need a new rear end for my play truck. My idea is to get there 31 spline kit truss it and depending on how the hubs look upgrade them. My truck is a 95 ranger with giant beams 33's with an under powered 4 cylinder.

http://www.9inchfloater.com/
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
we put a 35 spline floater in our 7 truck.really do not have many miles on it at this pointbut everything they sent went together well and looked like good work.ben
 

johnnyweb

Well-Known Member
A good buddy of mine as well as a copilot on my team put the 35 spline floater in his 1450 f150 truck. The rearend has not broke however it has been eating up axle seals? I believe he has blown like 2-3 this season. Could be bad seals. Could be installation. I believe he has replaced them again and will see what happens at the next race. I know the prices where great and i believe it only took like 2 weeks to get it. Thats all i know about that!
 

wolverine

Member
I have one in my truck - trussed and close to 4 inches wider per side and it works great. My truck is a 96 F 150 w/ stock 351 and stock trans. Rear is Detroit Locker w/ 4.88's. w/ Deavers and triple bypass's. I beat the truck hard at the sand dunes in Michigan. Bent my frame and the rear is fine.
 

ErikShallbetter

Well-Known Member
We run his axles in our prolites and have had no problems to date. Ron is a really good guy and makes a good product.
 

PSWPete

Member
A good buddy of mine as well as a copilot on my team put the 35 spline floater in his 1450 f150 truck. The rearend has not broke however it has been eating up axle seals? I believe he has blown like 2-3 this season. Could be bad seals. Could be installation. I believe he has replaced them again and will see what happens at the next race. I know the prices where great and i believe it only took like 2 weeks to get it. Thats all i know about that!
Call up BSR West (951) 360-1854. They have seals that press into the ID of the axle tube on the hub end and seal around the axle shaft. This keeps the oil out of the hubs. You just have to run grease in the bearings instead of gear oil. I use to have this same problem. The seals would leak every time I took the truck out. They have not leaked since putting the inner axle tube seals in.
 

johnnyweb

Well-Known Member
Call up BSR West (951) 360-1854. They have seals that press into the ID of the axle tube on the hub end and seal around the axle shaft. This keeps the oil out of the hubs. You just have to run grease in the bearings instead of gear oil. I use to have this same problem. The seals would leak every time I took the truck out. They have not leaked since putting the inner axle tube seals in.
Thanks for the info i will look into that. Come to think of it i did something similar on my non full float 9" in my prerunner. I am using a sealed axle bearing on it.
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
be sure of what you have with sealed bearings.they are most likely ball bearings,good for about 10%of the load a tappered roller can handle.we learned this one part way back from mulege with both bearings out and my wife burning tires all night with my 2 year old while i looked for parts with the green angels.
 

johnnyweb

Well-Known Member
be sure of what you have with sealed bearings.they are most likely ball bearings,good for about 10%of the load a tappered roller can handle.we learned this one part way back from mulege with both bearings out and my wife burning tires all night with my 2 year old while i looked for parts with the green angels.[/QUOTE
The axles are Dutchman the bearings came installed on the axles and is what they recommended. I have a 1000 or so prerun miles on them. I guess time will tell if they workout good or not.
 

Oscar

Well-Known Member
I had many seal issues as well and I had a couple races spin in the hubs. The races were already installed when I received the hubs. If you order the hubs without the races installed, there is a procedure for installing steel races into aluminum hubs so they don’t spin on you. Which I don’t believe Ron and his crew know about.

Don’t hit any rocks and you’ll be ok........
 

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BajaDale

Well-Known Member
I had many seal issues as well and I had a couple races spin in the hubs. The races were already installed when I received the hubs. If you order the hubs without the races installed, there is a procedure for installing steel races into aluminum hubs so they don’t spin on you. Which I don’t believe Ron and his crew know about.

Don’t hit any rocks and you’ll be ok........

That doesn't look like a problem with anything Ron did (9inchfloater), that looks like you ended your truss about 10" from the end? I'd say go back to the drawing board on that truss install;);).....
 

movindirt

Wham Spore
I had many seal issues as well and I had a couple races spin in the hubs. The races were already installed when I received the hubs. If you order the hubs without the races installed, there is a procedure for installing steel races into aluminum hubs so they don’t spin on you. Which I don’t believe Ron and his crew know about.

Don’t hit any rocks and you’ll be ok........
So is the install procedure a secret? I know green Loctite works..
 

Oscar

Well-Known Member
Baja dale.....Your absolutely right, that’s exactly why that happened. I got lazy and didn’t take the time to extend the truss all the way to the end cause it was more work to build slots through the truss for the u-bolts:rolleyes:....O well.

The procedure is the same as what I use for rollercoaster wheels. Boil the hub to 200 degrees for 10min with a propane turkey fryer. This expands the hub enough for the race to drop in with out using a press or compromising the press fit tolerance that the hub is built to maintain in order for the race to fit properly. When it cools, the hub will shrink to the size of the race.

Most people use a brass drift and a hammer which as you punch it into the hub, you typically will not punch it in evenly, effectively removing material from the press fit surface.
Then you beat the crap out of them in the dezert, get them hot, the material (hub) expands and the race spins.
 

alloutindustries.com

Active Member
I have a 9 in floater axle in my 04 chevy crewcab. I talked to Ron a couple of months ago and he ended up building me a custom housing like the one from his race truck.
The axle is really good looking specially being full float , 3.5 housing with 40 spline axles. But, I did run into a couple of issues.When I recieved the housing it was built upside down. Meaning when we installed axle housing then installed 3rd member the fill hole was on bottom and drain plug was on top.I installed axle first due to 3rd member taking longer to build. So we installed caliper brakets, set up perches ect ect. I had to remove axle, cut then grind off caliper brackets , fill and drain bungs.
then reinstall bungs and caliper brackets again.Ron did refund me $400.00 and sent new brackets and bungs. After all was complete the axle seals started leaking. After inspection there was slag from re welding brackets. So i had to buy new seals and reinstall. They havn't leaked since but i only have about 100 miles off road and 200 on road.Ron did take care off this situation and i will continue to buy from him.here is a link of the build pretty cool if you want to see www.billetclamp.com four door Chevy Prerunner.
http://www.prerunnerforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=105
 

alloutindustries.com

Active Member
Ok,,,,,,,,,,,,NOW IM GETTING FRUSTRATED

After posting the above comment , I had another issue this weekend.
Only one rear tire was spinning after a couple of miles in the dirt.

Keep in mind i have a spool.

So a drove back to camp,(Sand mountain) removed the rear axle shafts and found the penitration from axle to spool was only 1/2 inch on passenger side.??????
So I guessed maybe i installed the axles on the wrong side.(because when i installed the first time it was sent to me upside down)I pulled the axles and flipped them hoping that was the issue. Well it worked long enough to get me way out in the dunes and failed again. One tire spinning in the sand doesnt work to good.Now im stuck.Well 2 days into my 4 day trip my truck was done. I limped it onto the trailer and headed home.I got back to the shop and pulled the 3rd member. After a few measurements and a couple phone calls we dicovered that Ron at www.9infloater.com Gave Me
THE WRONG AXLES........
So Not only did axle come built wrong and we had to redo all of our work and his, Now my spool is stripped and my truck is down again. I Spent alot of money on this axle and i do not know what to do at this point. When i called Ron it seems like he doesnt care. NO, im sorry or what can i do to help fix this, Nothing. Just take measurments and ill send you a new axle shaft. He told me 2 to 3 weeks. WOW.... I was so upset. I though this place was the place but, after dealing with this purchase i must say be careful when you buy from this company. I run a big 4x4 shop and if i ever treated a customer like this i couldnt sleep. Good Luck if you buy from www.9infloater.com Ron Schreiner
 

Giant Geoff

Well-Known Member
If you have the time and money to maintenance and crack check “biz words” then it ok to put these things on your truck. If you’re like me and what to drive a lot and not work on your truck much, then go with stock design type parts that have more research and dependability in them.

Declaimer: I’m not replying to anyone, this is just a philosophy that I go by.
 

Superfab

Well-Known Member
The big problem when people build a rear end is they don't take into account what welding on perches, tabs or trusses does to the housing alignment. Not only does everything need to be in a straight line, the spindles or cups need to be square to the axle or it will eat seals, bearings and diffs up. The best manufactured housings i've seen lately for the price are the Dirt-tech. The best thing you can do when you are having the housing built is to have them do all the braces and mounts to your specs and completely weld them. Then get the spindles installed by them or someone who has a proper alighment bar and plenty of experience. It may seem expensive at the time but it's way cheaper than doing it twice. As for installing races in alum hubs, warm the hub on a hot plate or oven to 200-250 deg. You can place the race in acetone and dry ice and it will shrint the hell out of it. Be careful not to get it on your hands (Its way cold!!!). The race should drop in. Tap it with an installer to make sure it is seated all the way. If you want to remove a race and don't want to kill the bearing bore just run a tall weld bead on the inside of the race. Flip it over when you are done and the race will fall out. Works great for removing valve seats on alum heads too and also tailshaft bearing races.
 

fabguy1

New Member
It sounds like you are having some issues. Contrary to your situation, I have worked with Ron at 9inchfloater.com on 2 different project vehicle and he has been very professional and straight forward, A real down to earth guy. I would recommend this company to anyone.
 
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