I beam positive camber problem

First off thank you in advance to anyone that takes the time to offer up any help/info! Been fighting this for weeks...

Hi, I pulled some extended beams and radius arms off of a ranger and put them on another and have ran into some camber issues that I need help with... might be something easy or stupid to some but worth a shot to ask. I have done the whole searching thing and haven’t found a good solution. So the beams and radius arms were on another ranger and camber was perfectly fine, threw them on another ranger and built new shock hoops with a basic cross bar and now have pretty bad positive camber. The way I did the shock hoops was take the beam to full bump and mount the shock 90 degrees to the plane of the beam and also the radius arm. I know the engine cage has nothing to do with camber but listed everything I did so you guys know. I have fought with different camber bushings and still can’t get it right. The beams had 2 degree bushing on the old truck and I got adjustable 2.25 ones for the current truck that made the camber much better but I can’t get them to go all the way up the taper of the ball joint. It’s like they aren’t machined big enough for the taper and hang down about half an inch with the spindle installed. The beams have old style beam end where the bushing goes in from the bottom. Knowing that ride height and these camber adjusters are the only way to change camber I don’t know why I’m having so many problems... Just need some advice on
 
Located in Arizona... I appreciate the info though. I will see if I can get in touch with him, maybe he can give me a few tips, thank you.
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
Sounds like your ride height ended up different than the other truck.
i did my mazda navajo camber w- spring rubbers( shims) to get a 1.25 neg@ ride hieght, After bouncing the cr p outta it to settle it all down, sumthin' bout that 'i beam 'camber change,,,, U Think???
 
Sounds like your ride height ended up different than the other truck.
I thought that it could have changed also. I wasn’t sure what spring rate the coil overs had because someone had painted the coils, but the current truck has a 4 cylinder in it and the other truck had a v6. Didn’t think the weight could be much different between the 2 motors. But I like knowing exactly what I have so I bought new springs 300 over 400. I have the preload nut 3 inches from the top of the shock so can’t back it off any to lower the ride height or the springs get loose...I will have to try a little shorter spring to give me more adjustment.
 

Moss2

Well-Known Member
Seems your would want a longer spring if you want to move the adjuster up some and not let the springs get loose at full extension. Or a lighter top spring and longer. I think you will have the same problem of springs getting slack if you stay with the same rates and try and lower ride height.
 
pics might help
Seems your would want a longer spring if you want to move the adjuster up some and not let the springs get loose at full extension. Or a lighter top spring and longer. I think you will have the same problem of springs getting slack if you stay with the same rates and try and lower ride height.
i have a 12 inch upper and 14 inch lower springs on 12” stroke coilovers. Rule of thumb usually for spring length usually is upper 2 inches shorter and lower 2 inch longer than the stroke so really I can’t go to a longer spring or I wouldn’t be able to get the preload nut on. So my only option would be less weight springs.
 
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