Improving downforce on a 90s ranger

Bricoop

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One of the arms with a shackle on the end of it would work well. Ladder bars would be my last choice right behind doing nothing.

Autofab style 2 link would also work well.

Edit: since you no longer have a bed in the way, kicker shocks mounted off the top of the diff also work well. They allow flex but keep the rotation damped to prevent wheel hop. way better for traction.
Thanks. I’ll cross that bridge when we get there. I owe you some drinks if I’m ever out near you. My brother lives south of Warrensburg. Actually has a side by side short course he built on his property.
 

43mod

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Go to to the races at altomont , ukiuh or lakeport and talk to the street stock guys to learn about leaf springs . Steve Smiths book Stock Car Racing tech also a great resource .
 

43mod

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Low , center and towards the rear . Some weight behind axle is good but not a ton . Far better for the rig to turn well . Exit speed is easy if you make a clean entry . Figure out your instant and roll centers up front before buying anything
 

Bricoop

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One of the arms with a shackle on the end of it would work well. Ladder bars would be my last choice right behind doing nothing.

Autofab style 2 link would also work well.

Edit: since you no longer have a bed in the way, kicker shocks mounted off the top of the diff also work well. They allow flex but keep the rotation damped to prevent wheel hop. way better for traction.
Can you expand on your edit for me?

We got the watts installed tonight.
 

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Bricoop

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That lower frameside mount needs more beef/triangulation.
Thanks & Definitely. I'm not seeing nearly as much movement in the link as expected when playing with last night. I do plan to add a 45 degree bar there. I also will gusset the other side. Im also seeing movement in the center bolt. I'm wondering if we should put that in double sheer or if the movement is coming from the leaf to frame connection?
 

partybarge_pilot

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Should I triangulate off the frame or off the cross-brace? Originally thinking to do it off the cross brace, but I think the frame will provide us more rigidity.
Yes, run a tube from the mount tube to the frame on the other side.

Kicker shocks...... Tower sticking strait up off the pumpkin. The taller it is the more effective it will be. Shock(s) going strit forward at ride height mounted to the frame. Valving is 50/50. I.E. 20/20 with no bleeds if they are valvable. They need to be fairly long but don't need much travel. This will let the rear twist but keep it from rapidly unloading/hopping. It will have better forward bite than a bar type anti wrap set-up.
 

jon coleman

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tork link, dirt& street , car looks good, two link is for off road bouncing, were one side or the other is hooking up/ ' forward bite', in road / dirt track, both tires mostly have the ' forward bite', so you just need a single in the center tork link, so ive been told
 

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Bricoop

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Yes, run a tube from the mount tube to the frame on the other side.

Kicker shocks...... Tower sticking strait up off the pumpkin. The taller it is the more effective it will be. Shock(s) going strit forward at ride height mounted to the frame. Valving is 50/50. I.E. 20/20 with no bleeds if they are valvable. They need to be fairly long but don't need much travel. This will let the rear twist but keep it from rapidly unloading/hopping. It will have better forward bite than a bar type anti wrap set-up.
Like this? https://www.ramforum.com/data/attachments/73/73532-85884cc95089d4358e8aa5a8992d09f0.jpg
 
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