Installing a C4 to a 4.0

NorCal_Prerunner

Well-Known Member
Posts
305
Reaction
0
I have a 95 Ranger with a 4.0 (building to race VORRA), I just picked up two C4s. One came with an attached bellhousing, but the bolt pattern is wrong for my 4.0. I'm pretty sure I need an early bronco II bellhousing. (2.8 or 2.9 w/ a c4 or c5) Can anyone tell me the specific years Bronco II's had that bellhousing. Also, are there any other vehicles that have the correct bellhousing for my C4 and 4.0?

On a second note, I am sending one C4 to the shop to get rebuilt. What are the specifics that I should have done to the C4? I am already planning on a reverse manual valve body, what else?

Also, can I use my stock 4.0 flywheel and torque converter.

Lastly, what else do I need to take into consideration regarding this install. Sorry for the long post, I just came over to the dark side (Ford) after many years of running a Yota.

Thanks in advance.
 

CRAIG_HALL

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,527
Reaction
575
Culhane said some certain year of mustang bellhousing fit also.
 

Jerry Zaiden

Well-Known Member
Posts
9,843
Reaction
1,167
I would send it to Transwerxs engineering in Huntington beach, CA. Brian know his stuff and is very helpfull.
 

Salvador

Well-Known Member
Posts
575
Reaction
4
Try the 83-85 Bronco II with a C5 or the Mustang with a C4 79-86?? Bell housing with a 2.8 or 2.6 motor on it. You wil need the Flywheel from a 2.8 motor wi a C4-5 transmission
 

Prater

Well-Known Member
Posts
112
Reaction
0
I'm doing the same thing and the Mustang bellhousing was the easiest to get. If you are going to keep your EFI you are also going to need a computer for a manual.
 

Timmah

Well-Known Member
Posts
81
Reaction
1
I installed a C4 in my 91 Ranger 4.0. The bell housing is from a late 70's Mustang II, the flex plate (flywheel) and TQ should be from the mustang II also as the origional parts from the ranger are different. I went with kevlar frictions as well as several other mods to the valve body, brake hub and servo.

One final note, you can play with the stall a little when you are having your converter built, but dont go too high or you wont like it much as the 4.0 makes most of it's torque on low end to midrange.

Oh yea, I almost forgot, the C4 will mate right up to the ranger yoke and driveshaft, but you will have to fabricate a new rear trans mount point since the C4 mount is about 4 inches farther forward.

Hope that helps!
 

SpareChangeRacng

Well-Known Member
Posts
606
Reaction
8
Try the late 80's early 90's aerostars for the c4 or c5 bellhousing. I believe only the c5 was offered but i'm not positive. Anyways the c5 bellhousing will work w/ the c4's (very similar trannies) and will bolt up to the back of a 4.0. The bellhousings are getting hard to come by now though w/ everybody wanting to put a c4 behind the 4.0's. Steve
 

NorCal_Prerunner

Well-Known Member
Posts
305
Reaction
0
Here's some junk from 4.0performance.com

1. First thing is to get it all together. Your gonna need a bellhousing, torque converter, floor shifter, flywheel and of course a C4 transmission.

2. After removing your old transmission remove the flywheel from the 4.0, you won't reuse it. Get a new flywheel from the ford dealer for a 1974-78 Mustang II with a 2.8 v6 and a c4. Its around $80.

3. Your gonna need the bellhousing from a 74-78 Mustang II as well, they also made a 84 Bronco II with a 2.8 and C4 but its harder to find. Call a local transmission rebuilder and see what they have in the core pile. I've found mine at Performance Automatics, when I ordered my valve body from them they just threw it in. Don't give more then around $20-$50 for it. If you do your getting cheated.

4. You can use a rebuilt torque converter for the same mustang that the bellhousing comes from, a slight performance addition is to get a rebuilt unit for a 74-78 Mustang with a 2.3 and a C4. Its smaller and will stall more, but for stock applications use the standard unit.

5. After making sure that you get the converter all the way in the transmission then bolt the C4 to the back of the 4.0. Install the Torque converter nuts and starter.

6. It is possible to use the stock rear transmission mount. You'll have to cut the corner off the mount. Place it on the rear of the transmission and start both bolts, then raise it up and see where you'll need to trim the mount. DON"T just bolt it in place, if you do then you'll bust the rear tailshaft housing.

7. Place a piece of wood long enough to cover the entire transmission pan on a floor jack and use it to raise the transmission into place. What I did from here was to bolt the stock crossmember to the transmission mount and use it as a template to drill the holes in the frame. The crossmember will be a good bit farther forward, 5 inches on mine, but it may vary for different applications.

8. After drilling the new crossmember holes and bolting it in place you'll need to adapt your cooler lines to the new C4. If your truck was an automatic then you'll have cooler lines in place, you'll have to reduce them in size due to the smaller C4 lines. If you had a manual then you'll have to use new lines and have them bent into position. Use at least a 26,000 GVW for performance applications.

9. Follow closely your installation instructions for your new floor shifter.

10. With the truck sitting on level ground and all the weight on the tires crawl under it and measure from the tip of the output shaft to the pinion flange on the rear end. This will give you the dimension needed to tell your driveshaft company.

11. I wish I could say that this is it but there's always a bit more. Like Neutral-start switches and such. Yes if its an automatic your gonna have a check engine light since you don't have a shift solenoids or Torque converter clutch lock-up. Let's face it, if your going to go C4 then a check engine light should be the least of your worries.
 
Top