Jeepspeed?

BajaTJ

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After much thought and much time spent hunting for a car to build a class 5 out of a choice was made to make my 97 tj into a jeepspeed class 1700. Since i already own the jeep and the required American Racing wheels it seems logical.

Are there any Jeepspeed guys/gals here? (I am fairly new) I have the class rules but need some advice. Cage must be 2" 4130 to meet score rule? would like to keep a Semi-street legal for trips from camp to the store. I have crawled over the DJR wrangler a few times and have some ideas:
1st with the 10" travel is everyone strapping the front?
2nd bypass seems to be a better choice than just a smooth body resi shock?
3rd with the maintain jeep look rule would score allow a highline fender kit for class 3?

Any tips toward getting into jeepspeed would be great. I have a crew of guys a co-dog and school will end at the start 2010 season.
 

Rock Donkey

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Yeah! JS is fun and affordable. If you want to race SCORE, make sure you do a good job on your cage work and buy the rule book. Most guys say long arm works better than short arm. Auto transmission over standard, bypass shocks over smooth body, strap the front and back, truss both axles, etc. TJ frame will hold up longer than a XJ frame if decide to build your own.

I found it was way cheaper to sell my TJ and buy a completed JS ready to race. Most people don't realize how much work goes into these race vehicles.
 

Racer21(Roberto)

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i got to drive my dad's Jeep this weekend at Ridgecrest. its a four-door wrangler. awesome turning radius, and pretty good suspension

We are hopefully gonna get some BFGs on it, and better suspension. i don't know if we're gonna race it though. but when i inherite it from him, you bet you could see me in the desert with it.
 

jjordan

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good resource is www.jeepspeed.com

But the jeepspeed class is very fun and competitive racing.
 

JPhillips

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I dissagree with the advice above. I think a manual transmission is better, as long as it's not the puegot. It has less friction so lasts longer and doesn't need a cooler. Bypass will work fine and many teams that finish in the top run them, but a smooth body 3" will hold more oil, and thus be cooler. This is a big thing in jeepspeed, those shocks get hot. Also I think bypass shocks are more for long travel vehicles, just my opinion. But Jeepspeed is a great class, with a lot of competition and friendly people. Hope to see you out there
 

m80ondirt

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X100 on buying something already built or near race ready. You will thank us later.
It is almost certain, in any motorsport, it will cost twice as much to build it piece by piece. Find someone you trust, and look for a well built, seasoned car, usually someone that is moving up a class. My .02.
 

Gadzooks2

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We have run Jeepspeed for 3 and 2/5ths seasons now and finished on the podium each year. I would recommend:

1. Buy a complete race car if possible
2. Automatics are much easier on the drivetrain since the converter acts like a cushion (Our 904 has lasted many seasons w/o rebuild or failure or replacing a clutch:D) and lets you concentrate on driving.
3. External bypass shocks allow easier tuning and the shocks are the key to speed in the class. If you have time to rebuild smoothies enough times, get it perfect then never change the car, they are just as good.
4. You will have to strap front and rear since travel is checked regularly.
5. We run a transfer case all the time and switch between 2wd and 4wd front ends. (Parker is only race you need 4wd)
6. The top 3 cars in class all run short arm front kits since you only get 10' travel and the shorter arms are stronger. No one seems to be breaking long arms regularly either.
7. Rubicon Express or Currie panhard bar or equiv. is required or you will destroy it.
8. Dont' try to outrun the guys in the front, make sure you finish!
9. I could tell you more, but then I'd have to kill you!:eek:

Hope to see you out there, and if you ever need pit support look for the FAIR pit and we can help you out.
 

Baja Fool

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We have run Jeepspeed for 3 and 2/5ths seasons now and finished on the podium each year. I would recommend:

1. Buy a complete race car if possible
2. Automatics are much easier on the drivetrain since the converter acts like a cushion (Our 904 has lasted many seasons w/o rebuild or failure or replacing a clutch:D) and lets you concentrate on driving.
3. External bypass shocks allow easier tuning and the shocks are the key to speed in the class. If you have time to rebuild smoothies enough times, get it perfect then never change the car, they are just as good.
4. You will have to strap front and rear since travel is checked regularly.
5. We run a transfer case all the time and switch between 2wd and 4wd front ends. (Parker is only race you need 4wd)
6. The top 3 cars in class all run short arm front kits since you only get 10' travel and the shorter arms are stronger. No one seems to be breaking long arms regularly either.
7. Rubicon Express or Currie panhard bar or equiv. is required or you will destroy it.
8. Dont' try to outrun the guys in the front, make sure you finish!
9. I could tell you more, but then I'd have to kill you!:eek:

Hope to see you out there, and if you ever need pit support look for the FAIR pit and we can help you out.
If I were you, I think I'd go w/Gadzook's advice. Sounds like he's been down the road.

p.s. X2 on item #1!
 

Rock Donkey

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I dissagree with the advice above. I think a manual transmission is better, as long as it's not the puegot. It has less friction so lasts longer and doesn't need a cooler.

Yes and No. The problem with a manual transmission is when jumping it and landing with it in gear, it tends to destroy things quickly than an auto doing the same course. I found it hard to press the clutch pedal on every landing just in time to save the transmission!

The manuals are easier to work on, cheap, and don't build as much heat. Autos need a good cooler and anyone can drive it...but they do suck a little more power away...
 

Jack

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We have run Jeepspeed for 3 and 2/5ths seasons now and finished on the podium each year. I would recommend:

1. Buy a complete race car if possible
2. Automatics are much easier on the drivetrain since the converter acts like a cushion (Our 904 has lasted many seasons w/o rebuild or failure or replacing a clutch:D) and lets you concentrate on driving.
3. External bypass shocks allow easier tuning and the shocks are the key to speed in the class. If you have time to rebuild smoothies enough times, get it perfect then never change the car, they are just as good.
4. You will have to strap front and rear since travel is checked regularly.
5. We run a transfer case all the time and switch between 2wd and 4wd front ends. (Parker is only race you need 4wd)
6. The top 3 cars in class all run short arm front kits since you only get 10' travel and the shorter arms are stronger. No one seems to be breaking long arms regularly either.
7. Rubicon Express or Currie panhard bar or equiv. is required or you will destroy it.
8. Dont' try to outrun the guys in the front, make sure you finish!
9. I could tell you more, but then I'd have to kill you!:eek:

Hope to see you out there, and if you ever need pit support look for the FAIR pit and we can help you out.

Wow, we get to have 10 feet of travel now? These mid year rule changes:rolleyes:
 

Slippery P

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Whats up gadzooks2 tell your brother i said hi, I miss racing with you guys. whats up with the cup class? it says no pick ups and limited to 116 inch wheel base so is a j10 out. I hear tommy and mike still run theirs.
 

JPhillips

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Yes and No. The problem with a manual transmission is when jumping it and landing with it in gear, it tends to destroy things quickly than an auto doing the same course. I found it hard to press the clutch pedal on every landing just in time to save the transmission!

The manuals are easier to work on, cheap, and don't build as much heat. Autos need a good cooler and anyone can drive it...but they do suck a little more power away...

Yeah, I hear you on that one. I don't know about lately, but it was always the manual guys in the top. Barrie, Peltzer, did lafortune? Pro's and cons to everything, I just ran a manual, it lasted a long time, I did have to change clutches often, but I see that as standard prep. Prefrence I guess.
 

bob91yj

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Mid season rule change is a crock, IMO. Teams being warned that voicing their displeasure at these mid season changes can have season points taken away is even worse.
 

Tipracer

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Mid season rule change is a crock, IMO. Teams being warned that voicing their displeasure at these mid season changes can have season points taken away is even worse.

never good for a series...but what everybody has said is right...imo I am a fan of the 5 speed as long as it is not a peugot. good luck and buy a chassis that already has some mile on it, so much easier...
 

Fourstroker

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We have run Jeepspeed for 3 and 2/5ths seasons now and finished on the podium each year. I would recommend:

1. Buy a complete race car if possible
2. Automatics are much easier on the drivetrain since the converter acts like a cushion (Our 904 has lasted many seasons w/o rebuild or failure or replacing a clutch:D) and lets you concentrate on driving.
3. External bypass shocks allow easier tuning and the shocks are the key to speed in the class. If you have time to rebuild smoothies enough times, get it perfect then never change the car, they are just as good.
4. You will have to strap front and rear since travel is checked regularly.
5. We run a transfer case all the time and switch between 2wd and 4wd front ends. (Parker is only race you need 4wd)
6. The top 3 cars in class all run short arm front kits since you only get 10' travel and the shorter arms are stronger. No one seems to be breaking long arms regularly either.
7. Rubicon Express or Currie panhard bar or equiv. is required or you will destroy it.
8. Dont' try to outrun the guys in the front, make sure you finish!
9. I could tell you more, but then I'd have to kill you!:eek:

Hope to see you out there, and if you ever need pit support look for the FAIR pit and we can help you out.


Make sure you buy a Randy Miller for your pit crew too!
 
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