Just tossing an idea, seeing where it lands

WhoopEater

New Member
So I've got a little 92 Toyota pickup with a few mods so I can sorta be considered a prerunner. It has some longer a arms up front with some old king shocks. A wide body kit. And a pathetic about of down travel rear end with about 7 or 8 inches of up travel. The powerhouse is a 2.4 22re. Did I really just put powerhouse and 2.4 22re in the same sentence?

That brings me to my "idea". I have a 94 Ford 300 inline 6 block. I was building it to go on a 67 mustang, but since I haven't even bought the car yet that could easily change. The block is getting a set of small journal ls rods made by Molnar Technologies, a HX35 turbo off a Cummins, scorpion roller rockers, oversized racing valves, custom turbo pistons, custom turbo cam, and Holley Sniper efi. It will run max of 20 psi. Supposed to make about 400-500 hp at 5000ish rpms, and 600+ ftlbs torque at 2600ish rpms. Now that's enough power to get a mini truck scooting across the desert. I'm good with a welder and related tools for metal fabrication. Just wondering if this would be a good route to go.
The truck is mostly a play toy, I don't really need it to get where I need to go. I live in Fort Irwin California, Garrison is tiny and I can literally walk everywhere I need to go.
 

Attachments

michael_loomis

Well-Known Member
Imo... way way way too much engine for that truck. I’d leave the 22RE and just keep tuning suspension. Some Deaver long travel springs in the back and good bypass shocks, then get the front end a little more dialed in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

WhoopEater

New Member
Imo... way way way too much engine for that truck. I’d leave the 22RE and just keep tuning suspension. Some Deaver long travel springs in the back and good bypass shocks, then get the front end a little more dialed in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Maybe, but doesn't the saying go, "it's better to have too much of something than not enough" ?;)
As far as the rear suspension goes, I want to completely ditch the leaf springs and go triangulated 4 link and try to get about 18-20 inches of travel our of it. I know the travel part is easy to get, just don't know if the driveline angles will agree. Front end I want to go total chaos long travel coilovers and bypass set up. Completely ditching the torsion bars. Or I might swap in my old ford f150s 2wd twin I beam suspension. In my opinion it's tougher than these little spindles and steering knuckles I have now
 
Last edited:

michael_loomis

Well-Known Member
That saying works great... for strapped wheel travel..

Sounds like a cool power plant.. just a real waste in the truck until you dump 20k into the suspension.

I’d keep building it for the street car, but that’s just me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

WhoopEater

New Member
That saying works great... for strapped wheel travel..

Sounds like a cool power plant.. just a real waste in the truck until you dump 20k into the suspension.

I’d keep building it for the street car, but that’s just me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Fair enough, maybe a Chevy 4.3 v6 stock is more realistic lol.

So what about suspension. I have access to a welder so a "weld together" kit for rear suspension would probably be the best bet for me. Or could I use some thick walled pipe for the trailing arms and links. I have connections to someone with a CNC plasma cutter that can easily cut out some shock mounting brackets that would fit perfectly on the pipe.
 

michael_loomis

Well-Known Member
Fair enough, maybe a Chevy 4.3 v6 stock is more realistic lol.

So what about suspension. I have access to a welder so a "weld together" kit for rear suspension would probably be the best bet for me. Or could I use some thick walled pipe for the trailing arms and links. I have connections to someone with a CNC plasma cutter that can easily cut out some shock mounting brackets that would fit perfectly on the pipe.
“Thick walled pipe” lol...

Do yourself a favor.. it’s your life on the line when you’re mashing 65+ through the whoops... have an experienced roll cage fabricator connect the front to the rear via cage.. especially with a linked truck.

Then have fun building whatever kind of suspension you want. If it works tits... you’ve earned that poop eating grin... if it folds up... try again, but at least you’re safe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

michael_loomis

Well-Known Member
Btw... you don’t need to do anything to the reliable ole 22RE.

Just watch any 1600 buggy highlight clip to see what 10” of travel and 80hp will do.
 

partybarge_pilot

Well-Known Member
Those motors are tanks. Not saying the 22R is lightweight, but the 300 is at least 100#'s more. The Toy frames have problems rolling the frame rails in at the motor mounts with a 22R. Adding that much more weight will need some serious frame reinforcement. The 300 is also very long. Fitting it all in there without massaging the firewall probably won't happen.
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
just build a custom roller and hang toy. body on it.or just do a ranger or f150.i knew a guy who stuck a ranger i beam front set up on his toy sr5. he said never again. id make a 500 hp sleeper tubbed street toy .camper shell to hide everything.leave paint in primer bondo mode and go make fast& furious look slow& ridiculous
 

klaus

Administrator
the memories of a truck that is all motor and nothing else..... yes go for it. It will be awesome.
 

Bert is my name

Well-Known Member
Keep it Toyota. Put a 2jz or 4age in it. But a 22r with 20 r head and trd "mid range" cam makes for a stout little engine. Throw some mikunis or webers on it and it will scream.
Save the 300 for the original project or sell it to fund this one. By the way scorpion rockers are junk. They spit the needle. Bearings out and kill engines. Send those back to china.
 
Top