Installed the Kings and Camburg arms day before yesterday, aimed the headlights, did a ghetto toe-set with a tape measure, and then took it to get an alignment yesterday.
Surprisingly, all it needed was a toe set. They didn't even need to touch the eccentrics in the lower arms.
The thrust angle was spot-on after installing the Deaver rear leaf springs.
The camber was even and well within specs at about negative .5 degrees on both sides, and a nice caster split of about .5 degrees favoring the left side, to compensate for the crown in the road.
The big surprise was the total amount of caster the Camburg UCAs got me- 5.4 and 5.9 degrees, about 2-3 degrees more than stock, giving it a really nice on-center feel.
Another nice surprise was the amount of travel- I was expecting about 9" of the front, but got about 10". I know that's not a lot compared to serious desert vehicles, but it's a massive improvement on this one. The Deavers gave us about 10" in the back, and now we have about 10" in the front as well. And high-quality damping that won't fade at our expected pace off road.
I haven't really started fiddling with the compression clickers yet- I just set them to the middle of their range front and rear, about 8 clicks out.
I'm pretty darned impressed with the 2.5" Kings (and the Deavers, and the Camburg UCAs). Our property is like a mini Plaster City, and my wife and I were taking turns with the truck, going a little bit faster each time, until we reached the limit of our comfort level. No more "seasick" suspension- it's very settled now, and it's absorbing stuff to the point that what we're seeing through the windshield doesn't jive with what we're feeling in the seats. We're able to drive easily twice as fast. We were even getting a little bit of daylight under the tires "jumping" our driveway crossways at about 30 mph, and it lands like a cat.
I'll get some better pics of it in better light when I can. There's not really that much to look at, since we have made some choices to keep the external appearance subdued.
Our 33s are just barely grazing the stock plastic fender liners at full bump. Glass fenders (and probably bedsides) are required to clear 35s. And I've seen pics of one with 37s and glass, but I don't know if they actually clear at full bump.Yeah a ranger. With a shell, in that grey color.
Anyway to squeeze 35's under that thing?
We've mapped it all out. We've got room for a floor jack up to 26" long strapped down in the right rear corner of the bed, as well as room to relocate the battery there. We've got room to bolt down a carrier for two five gallon fuel jugs in the left front of the bed, near the fuel filler, so that we can refuel with a simple siphon, without having to even lift a fuel jug. Our traction boards will be able to fit in several places. And there's still room for other stuff. We'll probably keep our recovery straps behind or under the rear seat. And we're gonna cover the bed with a crappy tarp so that nothing shows.Hey your rig is looking great!
Consider making a list of what you think you will be carrying, then mock up the stowage plan. As someone mentioned earlier, save room for the collection of spares you may be asked to carry, or whatever stuff might have to come back with you. Example: a spare trans takes up more room than we all think, and they destroy stuff if not well anchored.
Maybe..to get more bed space...one rim/tire plus a good tire repair kit? Neumatico repair is everywhere in Baja.
So, how did you mod the cargo lamp lenses to amber and blue?
Again, dig the clean look of the Ranger!
For a number of reasons, I am a major proponent of buying only as much vehicle as you actually need. America is the only country in the world, where people use leather-lined one-ton crew-cab turbodiesel 4x4 duallies with spacer lifts and oversized mud tires...to do solo commuting on the interstate.
This truck is big enough for me and my wife, up to three more passengers in the back at times, our three dogs on the weekends, Home Depot runs, and can tow a trailer up to 7,500 pounds if needed. It also knocks down 20 mph at 75-85 and merges with authority.
And for less than the price of a completely stock XLT 4x4 off the lot, we have the same platform, but lighter, with better weight distribution, a locking rear axle, the best suspension you can bolt onto one of these, frame-cut Baja bumpers with skid plate, and six 33" BFG KO2s on Method Racing wheels.
4x4 is nice to have in Baja.Our 33s are just barely grazing the stock plastic fender liners at full bump. Glass fenders (and probably bedsides) are required to clear 35s. And I've seen pics of one with 37s and glass, but I don't know if they actually clear at full bump.
I don't remember if I mentioned it before, but if you buy one without the optional electronic locking rear differential, the rear ring gear is welded to the carrier, so to re-gear, you would need to buy a new carrier when you do it...unless you buy one with the e-diff.
And there are no other gear ratios available for the front diff on the 4x4 versions, so there's no way to re-gear the 4x4 versions for larger tires.
So you can physically install 35s (with glass) on a 4x4, but it's probably gonna suck on road, and be pretty useless off road.
We bought a 4x2 with the e-diff, so we can re-gear to run 35s (with glass) without having to buy a new carrier.