Least Expensive, Sportsmans Class Vehicle, F250

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What class rules would you build a TTB extended cab F250 to? 3000, 8000, 1450?

This is a desert/camping/exploring toy and wouldn't mind entering smaller races like SNORE, or the Bonneville races in N utah.

Front - TTB, C/O, Bypass?

Rear- Deaver or 4 link?

Which class would be be the best to build a turd to, primarily NON-racing, but legal and (probably not even slightly competitve) FUN!?

Should I grab a 'YOTA for 1450 instead?

Yes, blah blah, racing is expensive, rACinG iSNt ChEAp. We all have budgets, some larger than others. I don't have debt, have a steady income with 80% of it play money.
 

J Prich

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You could build a SNORE/MORE Class 2000 truck and probably even keep it street legal depending on where you live.
 
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You could build a SNORE/MORE Class 2000 truck and probably even keep it street legal depending on where you live.
I'm in utah, anything is damn near street legal with turn and brake lights. I have an '18 tow pig and an '08 tow pig, but street legal would be a plus. really only need mirrors, signals, and a windshield.

Is snore 2000 legal or competitive in any other race circuits? for the full size.

Anna Nicole - 1993 F150 4x4 Prerunner

This truck has raced NORRA and driven home from Cabo after.
thanks, i will look at this!
 

J Prich

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With all due respect, are YOU competitive? Building a “competitive” vehicle in a sportsman class maybe doesn’t tell the whole story. Plenty of fast guys in sportsman truck categories that are very competitive in spite of having “average” trucks.

Point being, if your goal is to get in the game and have fun, ANY truck that is consistent and reliable is going to be at least marginally competitive in a sportsman truck class. Especially 2000. If you build a good platform and you’re able to push the truck to perform, it’s gonna be competitive in these classes.
 

cjohnson

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UTV is always the answer just like Miata is always the answer for cheap asphalt racing.
This is a question I have been mulling over. I have raced a UTV and know how much the owner(my brother) spent on it. It was way more than my budget so I'm considering a sportsman truck because I think I can build one for less than a UTV but maybe I'm wrong. I need to sit down a make up a spreed sheet with detailed cost estimates. I like trucks better so cost might be a secondary consideration though.

UTVs are definitely cheaper on gas, tires, etc. They are easier to drag out of the desert when they break too. All things to consider.
 

Bro_Gill

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First thing to do is lose the 4x4 and get a king pin spindle 2 wheel drive truck to start with, You said budget, that would be your best starting point.
 
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First thing to do is lose the 4x4 and get a king pin spindle 2 wheel drive truck to start with, You said budget, that would be your best starting point.
We have too many silty and muddy spring messes in southern utah for it to not have 4x4. No phone service in a lot of ditches either.
 

J Prich

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A good Class 2000 is a well built truck that is prepped well and driven hard but within it's limits. It doesn't have a brand. Full size and mid/minis have had success in the class. It's a prep/driver class, not a manufacturer type class. Build your truck to be reliable and capable of taking a beating and you'll have built a competitive Class 2000.
 
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A good Class 2000 is a well built truck that is prepped well and driven hard but within it's limits. It doesn't have a brand. Full size and mid/minis have had success in the class. It's a prep/driver class, not a manufacturer type class. Build your truck to be reliable and capable of taking a beating and you'll have built a competitive Class 2000.
Appreciate it. I have raced before but never my own truck. I know the cash and time spent on prep and checking things properly. Still ditch the 4wd for class 2000? Also, does "complete frame" allow a C-notch for the rear or not?
 

J Prich

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Appreciate it. I have raced before but never my own truck. I know the cash and time spent on prep and checking things properly. Still ditch the 4wd for class 2000? Also, does "complete frame" allow a C-notch for the rear or not?
PM me your contact info. I can connect you to some Class 2000 guys that would be better able to answer specific questions. I honestly can’t remember if SNORE rules allow you to notch the frame or not. I want to say yeah but haven’t looked that closely in a few years.

Regarding 4wd, my opinion is it would definitely be a cheaper build to go 2wd bit if you’re 50% race or less and the rest of the time the truck is just play time, I’d say build it with 4wd if that’s how it’s going to get used.

My .02 is at the end of the day you build your truck to be most cost effective and useful for your situation. Building a sportsman truck on a budget with the sole focus on being “competitive” is the wrong lens. Build it how you can based on your situation, race it, and fix and improve as you get more R&D.
 

cjohnson

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Appreciate it. I have raced before but never my own truck. I know the cash and time spent on prep and checking things properly. Still ditch the 4wd for class 2000? Also, does "complete frame" allow a C-notch for the rear or not?
There are competitive 4x4 trucks in sportsman. It's more $$ but if you need it it's worth it. My research has shown frame notching is one of those areas that vary by race organization. Some series limited sportsman rules will specifically forbid frame notching, some don't. If you want to be sure you fit as many series as possible don't notch.
 
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