Loc-tite of choice?

Demp

#mikesson
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What do you guys prefer? Blue? Red? High strength? Low Strength? What ever Autozone has in stock? :rolleyes::D

Our tool box has a wide selection of different colors and strengths. So I was curious to ask what everyone else runs!!

What do you prefer?
 

07FJRog

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depends, red or blue usually
 

pdailey

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What do you guys prefer? Blue? Red? High strength? Low Strength? What ever Autozone has in stock? :rolleyes::D

Our tool box has a wide selection of different colors and strengths. So I was curious to ask what everyone else runs!!

What do you prefer?
It actually depends on size of the bolt. We went to school on this after bolts starting back out in our oil pumps. Call Loctite themselves. You will learn a lot.
 

movindirt

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It actually depends on size of the bolt. We went to school on this after bolts starting back out in our oil pumps. Call Loctite themselves. You will learn a lot.
That and where it is being used and time until part is put into service. Blue will not work with hot exhaust, have always used red but there may be something better.. And red is the way to go during a race because it can be put into service immediately. Just be careful with it or you'll be cutting parts off back @ the shop ;)

Played hell getting the u bolts off after swapping out rear leafs during a Mint 400. Took heat and a 15' tube leveraging a 3/4" breaker bar! :eek:

Blue is always my first choice. But some bolts just beg for red and even that isn't enough @ times. Also you can get away with red more on coarse threads then w/ fine.

And ultimately calling Loctite will net you the best advice :) Just in case you did already know that :p
 
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DBMETALWORX

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Blue for threading into aluminum, red for steel..
 

Samco Fab

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You are better off with less locktite than more. Just a drop on smaller bolts, and a couple on larger ones. And put it where the threads engage!

I see guys just marinading bolts in that stuff, it causes false torque readings, is terrible to get off, and can actually cause you to under torque a bolt if it sets up too soon. TOO MUCH LOCKTITE ......BAD.......

You must have a clean bolt, no grease, oil, solvent on there. Clean them with brakleen.
 

5racer

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the old sayin is a dab will do ya ,like samco said locktite can be your friend or your worse enemy.
 

loufish

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Loctite is like any other tool in the toolbox....Use the right one for the job...

I use Blue for general use, and things I'd like to take apart with out too much hassle
Red for the stuff that causes much more problems if it comes loose then when I need to remove it. Red works good where you want to retain studs into something.

Green-Wicking...This is pretty cool stuff for pre-assembled fasteners, it really does wick into the threads(but not nylocks) and has about medium strength.

Remember, Loctite is kind of like Silicone form a gasket...The cleaner the surface, the better the locking. I like to clean my fasteners with Brakleen before applying the locker, holds much better.
 

Demp

#mikesson
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You are better off with less locktite than more. Just a drop on smaller bolts, and a couple on larger ones. And put it where the threads engage!

I see guys just marinading bolts in that stuff, it causes false torque readings, is terrible to get off, and can actually cause you to under torque a bolt if it sets up too soon. TOO MUCH LOCKTITE ......BAD.......

You must have a clean bolt, no grease, oil, solvent on there. Clean them with brakleen.

I agree with you 100%!!!!! I've also seen people dueche the threads with threadlocker! That or they drop it on the tip of the bolt where the threads first start... then they run the nut down:confused:..jajaja
 

bigtex

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I do not belive in loctite. I use what my grandfater tought me " A cross thread is a tight thread".:D.lol...... no just jokin, red on all suspension and motor mount bolts, blue on everything else.
 

mebuildit

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Locktite also makes a primer. We use that stuff at work, and the green stuff that we get is a **BAN ME****BAN ME****BAN ME****BAN ME****BAN ME** to break loose when used with primer. Like others have said clean threads and fasteners will work the best for keeping things secure. Our work instructions say 1/8 wide 3-4 threads up the bolt is all that is required. Never put any Locktite or or thread lube in a hole, it will just push out the other end. Always, put the compound of choice on the male portion of the thread.

Hope this helps.
 

Wendell #527

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Remember there are two types of Red Locktite. One red is high strength and one red is high temperature. Read the package good before you buy it.
 

Co-Dog

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If you can get red loose by hand without heat or a breaker bar, it wasn't done correctly. I use green on everything under 1/4", and all electrical screw terminals and on the retaining nuts for toggle switches and breaker. Awesome stuff.

We started using Nord-Lock washers and no longer need loctite for most things. These washers, when installed correctly, make it pretty much impossible for a bolt to back out or a nut to come loose. The down side is that they are ridiculously expensive. You have to use them to truly appreciate how bad ass these things are. Once the bolt is finger tight, you will need tools to get it loose again.
 

Tipracer

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Anybody else notice that the price of locktite has gone thru the roof...
 

redmist

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I'll back Co-Dog on this one. Nord Locks are the dogs danglers. They hold considerably more than Locktite will and are easily undone/done up when you want them to. The cams wear after a while so I throw them when they appear the slightest bit worn (generally after 10 or so uses). They hold everything from engine mounts to the rear cage on in my Jimco. You also don't have to prep the bolt/surfaces the same as you have to with Locktite. As they are mechanical there is no curing time. So fantastic for mid race repairs. Entrust my life to them every race. Two downsides. Locktite is universal, nordlocks you'll have to match to the bolt size. Secondly, as co-dog mentioned, they aren't cheap. Stating that either is locktite now!
 
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