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Looking for advice before buying a new SxS

novaman64

Well-Known Member
All the wiring is finished up. The chase lights and communications (VHF radio/nav/intercom) are wired so they can be ran with the ignition off, the helmet air and siren are wired to only work with ignition switched on. The video does no justice to how loud the Fenix Titan siren is. Hopefully lots of people will be hearing it as I chase them down.

 

novaman64

Well-Known Member
Made the dash trim plate out of alum since everything was surface mounting and the stock plastic piece was flimsy...

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novaman64

Well-Known Member
Mounted up one of the new wheels/tires to see what they looks like and how much bigger than stock... Adds about 1” of width per side, good news is if/when I get the SpeedSxS 77” kit with these wheels/tires I will be at 79” so under the limit of 80” width.
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Nessy

Well-Known Member
That looks like a 4+3 wheel compared to the stock 6+1 just by looking at the picture of them on the car. You are really changing the scrub radius and will have a lit more feedback in the steering wheel.
 

novaman64

Well-Known Member
That looks like a 4+3 wheel compared to the stock 6+1 just by looking at the picture of them on the car. You are really changing the scrub radius and will have a lit more feedback in the steering wheel.
It’s only a 5” wide run which is why it looks way wider. 0 offset, 3” backspace, so I guess 3+2.
 

Zambo

Well-Known Member
It isn't about the width of the car, its about moving the pivot point of the tire where it hits the ground. The farther away the center of the contact patch is from where its designed to be (stock wheel), the more the steering wheel is going to kick when you hit stuff or get on the gas or brakes.

BTW I don't have any rule book in front of me but I always thought the width limit for most sxs classes was 77"....hence the 77" kit.
 

Nessy

Well-Known Member
It’s only a 5” wide run which is why it looks way wider. 0 offset, 3” backspace, so I guess 3+2.
If you draw a line through you pivot points down to the ground were your tire sits you want it to end up in the center of the tire. From the pics it looks way off. I went with the Raceline 5+1 with my 32 inch tires to keep the scrub radius correct.
 

novaman64

Well-Known Member
BITD Sportsman class reads:

All suspension designs, components and mounting points are open. The max width 80” and is measured from outside of tire to outside of tire at ride height. Width may be checked at any time.
 

novaman64

Well-Known Member
If you draw a line through you pivot points down to the ground were your tire sits you want it to end up in the center of the tire. From the pics it looks way off. I went with the Raceline 5+1 with my 32 inch tires to keep the scrub radius correct.
I'll give that a look, I thought it more had to do with outside edge, I know running same back spacing with different width wheels you can feel a huge difference in turning (at least on full size diesel trucks).

I do know a few guys running the Method 401-R on the XX, and that is a 2.5+2.5 wheel, didn't notice a concernable handling difference, and thats 1/2 more than my wheels....
 

Zambo

Well-Known Member
I'll give that a look, I thought it more had to do with outside edge, I know running same back spacing with different width wheels you can feel a huge difference in turning (at least on full size diesel trucks).

I do know a few guys running the Method 401-R on the XX, and that is a 2.5+2.5 wheel, didn't notice a concernable handling difference, and thats 1/2 more than my wheels....
You might check that 401R specification. My 401R on the CanAm are 5" backspacing. Most of the big race wheel manufacturers have figured out that they need to build wheels that provide the correct scrub radius.
 

novaman64

Well-Known Member
You might check that 401R specification. My 401R on the CanAm are 5" backspacing. Most of the big race wheel manufacturers have figured out that they need to build wheels that provide the correct scrub radius.
Method makes a high offset, and low offset, the one I am referring too is the "Low Offset", 2.5+2.5
 

Zambo

Well-Known Member
Thanks, never seen that one before. I'd still go with the high offset wheel. Not just for scrub radius/feedback but also because I believe that when you make a UTV too wide you actually give up some of its advantage, especially in Baja.
 

novaman64

Well-Known Member
Thanks, never seen that one before. I'd still go with the high offset wheel. Not just for scrub radius/feedback but also because I believe that when you make a UTV too wide you actually give up some of its advantage, especially in Baja.
Well, for now I will be sitting at 66", Ill see if the wheels affect drivability negatively, if they do, there will be a set of KMC Addict 2 LW rims listed in the classifieds section for a good price!

So in the future you think the 72" width is more optimal than 77"? I guess there is a fine line between width for stability and maneuverability. Not sure what the travel differences are between the two.
 

Zambo

Well-Known Member
I think that in the early days of UTVs they were tall, narrow, and tipped over easily. People put wide wheels on them to make them more stable. And they got away with it despite the negative effect on steering because they just didn't go that fast. Now they sit lower and are a lot more stable and they go faster so you need good steering. Plus, a wheel doesn't increase the amount of travel you have, that is mainly a function of geometry and width of the suspension.

Very many trails in Baja where you actually will have to slow down if you are too wide. Being able to take multiple lines down some goat trail lets you go faster IMO. Plus in silty areas you aren't in the same ruts as the unlimited cars that are making the ruts in the first place. All just one man's opinion, but I think UTVS are competitive with other classes because they go fast in areas that other cars can't go fast. If you try and make it as big as a 10 car, it doesn't become a better UTV it just becomes a crappy 10 car.
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
Well, for now I will be sitting at 66", Ill see if the wheels affect drivability negatively, if they do, there will be a set of KMC Addict 2 LW rims listed in the classifieds section for a good price!

So in the future you think the 72" width is more optimal than 77"? I guess there is a fine line between width for stability and maneuverability. Not sure what the travel differences are between the two.
These are like 66- 66.5 in stock form- to edge of tire.
Yours looks like an additional 1" offset out- you will be sitting at about 68.5.
The scrub should be ok with the added 2" in overall diameter- minimal bump steer if any.
Personally- I don't like too wide- too much road furniture (cycling race term) to find.

Ok...I just looked at your wheel- (nice wheel) .
You looked to have added about 1.5 per side or now sitting at about 69.5-70.
May feel a little bump steer- especially with the heavier tire.
 

novaman64

Well-Known Member
These are like 66- 66.5 in stock form- to edge of tire.
Yours looks like an additional 1" offset out- you will be sitting at about 68.5.
The scrub should be ok with the added 2" in overall diameter- minimal bump steer if any.
Personally- I don't like too wide- too much road furniture (cycling race term) to find.
I will double check my ride height, but when I measured the stockers, I got 64"...
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
I will double check my ride height, but when I measured the stockers, I got 64"...
To the edge of the tire at the top or bottom? They do camber negative some.
I am at 66.5- don't forget to re-compress the suspension before you measure. These things sit up some after you lower the jack- will narrow the front. I have about 14-14.5 ride height to frame.
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
You will most likely be at or near 70.
I would do the stock shocks up and race it first...before you spend the 7k on a long travel.
Those RG arms are strong though- as we saw with Crawlr's hit.

May take you out of stock class rules with any other susp mods anyway.
 
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