Crumple Zones in an off road car= chassis failure. Unless you plan on building a new chassis after each race, don't crash or get hit, or just want to get injured or die. A road car and an off road car are two different animals.
$10K to build a 10 car? jajaja Maybe with Iron pipe and Rancho shocks. You won't be able to race it in any sanctioning body. Shocks alone will cost you $6K+ that's if you get a deal.
Alot of the stuff you are talking about puts you into Class 1. A whole new animal if you want to be slightly competitive, then add 10X to your budget.
Not trying to negative. But you need to look into what you are trying to get into before you get hurt trying.
well safty stuff like fire suit, exstinguishers, helmets. I have most of that crap already for myself. From what I was reading on CTR rule link. Most of the safty equiptment is cheap and easily available. Only thing I don't have at the moment is spare buckets. 5 point harnesses etc I have kicking around or know people that have extra's.
the fuel cell is cheap. but the riging for no back flow and roll over stuff I would have to make or find though. I don't have any of that sitting around.
as for engine and chassis since It has to be US engines... and can't use any of my turbo JDM nissan engines i have laying around.
basically my choices are down to Honda D16Y7. sohc non vtec 16v. easy to find... large aftermarket. easy to up compression and build a bullet proof 10,000rpm engine for like 2-3G. and could prolly rig FWD trans to run high travel rear suspension, with custom equal length/strength CV shafts
go with something like a toyota 4AGE which is already RWD. and has huge JDM aftermarket since they where USDM and JDM engines.
choosing a transmission and making it fit will be the interesting part. as it seems most class 10 run rear engine RWD. I didn't see any rule saying I could use mid engine RWD. could then use an MR2 driveline.. modded of course. and 90% of trannys I could choose from that are RWD or MR or convertable from fwd to RRWD, would handle 200hp all day.
I'm wishing right now Nissan had made a strong 1.8L or smaller MR or RWD car with a huge aftermarket to select from... but can't win all your battles haha
if i can make a mid engine forward facing driveline I could use a stock S13 (240sx R200) diff nissan used in pretty much everything. They'll take an immense beating. there small, light, very tough, and have huge aftermarket for clutch LSD, and VLSD setups. the tomei 2way in my car is loud, but never given up on me yet haha. CV axels would then be exremely easy to make fit, and make them handle A LOT more than 200hp.
transverse engine like honda would be easy as there large aftermarket allows for pretty much everything to be upgraded easyily and cheapily. LSD's and custom gear boxes are dime a dozen. just making it fit right would be interesting
I've been pondering brakes and spindles etc.
basically I'm still thinking
b. common everywhere
d. aftermarket upgrades that bolt on.
so im thinking probably chevy truck front spindles. from 04-06 half ton 2wd and with 4.3L. they came factory with steering rack set up instead of BS system that always fails chevy normally uses. If i could then find pillow ball upper and lower ball joints. I could then just make control arms that fit the factory ball joint mounting. then its easy to fix/replace. and the brake size would not be a problem as it stops a 4,000lb truck etc, would be more than enough for 2500lb car. I could work out all the math but i dont feel like it right now haha. one nice thing about the chevy spindle is its factory designed for SLA suspension. so other than making sure balljoints are loaded right it should be fairly straight forward idea or changeable design for just about everything ive seen on these "buggies". I just really dont like king pin style spindles. i'm not sure about race grade ones. but old trucks with them suck to fix/ replace.
as for rear spindle driveline etc. I'm think factory RWD. I have a bunch of 240sx spindles kicking around. there a 4 link though... and I'm not sure how I could make shock mounts work on them with larg suspension travel angle changes. and there advantage would be hubs are already built for CV axels. I would like to steer away from solid rear axels. There tough yes. but all it takes is one wrong landing to bend something or break soemthing and be out of the race. atleats with independant you can carry a spare easily. I' also pondering something like a DSM(talon) awd rear suspension. With large lower control arms, and relatively simple 3 link setup.
shocks I've kind of been looking around. obviously unless I make it match something thats already production then it will need to be custom.
summit racing, or my parts guy in florida carry a lot of the stuff that's maditory. for safty, gauges, seating. and there prices are usually very reasonable.
the mild steel or 4130 chromemoly tube would be a bit tough to find around here though. Mild us fairly easy. but 4130 I would have to order from somewhere I'm sure. not to mention the attachment my welder will need. and someplace to heat treat chromemoly. Im a mild steel guy myself. absorbes impacts better instead of your body absorbing it.... kind of like a new age car and "crumple zones" HAHA
starting from scratch, i don't think it's possible, even if you are extremely well connected, to build any kind of competitive legally sanctioned off road car or truck for ten grand. it just plain costs more than that. alot more than that. you're out of money after you buy just the tires, wheels, shocks and lighting required to be competitive. it would be tough to do on a 25k budget. i don't think there is a so-called rule of thumb, but if you have a certain build cost estimate and you've never done this before and you live in a local where you have to have everything specially ordered and delivered, then i think it's safe to say that your initial estimate will at least be triple of what your first cost estimate was. being macgyver [sp] helps alot but even he has to buy paper clips, straws, shoe strings, and candle wax.
wow.......it sure is cold up there isn't it ...
good luck, let us know how it goes, post your progress in the shop section. we'd LOVE to see it!
Good luck man I don't want to burst your bubble. Bullet proofing motor and trans is a art form....The loads are like nothing else in racing. I am a mechanical engineer and even if I had a plasma cut table to go along with my mill, lathe, bender, welders and a full tool box of tools I couldn't build a car in my garage for less then 30k and that is doing pretty much everything myself.....The trans is a minimum of 10k trust me many people have tried every variation and combination to do this cheaper and they don't work. You could probably build a car that you could drive in the desert but it would probably last 5 miles...
I love your idea, but to be competitive, IMHO, you needed this idea 35-40 years ago. Best of luck! Today's Unlimiteds and 10's can go 60-100 mph over terrain that would put a standard pickup out of control at 10 mph. Drivelines and suspensions endure HOURS of constant abuse for hundreds of miles, not a few kilometer long stages.
It's unbelievable 'til you've experienced it. You probably ought to come out to a race. It will be money well spent. No offense, but have you seen "Dust To Glory"?
If you can take those winters, you certainly show the determination needed to build and field a car.